Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 19, 2004 06:37pm | #1

   I don't think you need to "neutralize" but you should be sure all the steel wool dust is off the wood before you start finishing.  I would wipe down with mineral spirits.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   k9s | Jul 20, 2004 06:47am | #3

   Thanks Jamie. Hmm, another question, should the mixture be strained before use to remove "the big chunks"?

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 20, 2004 08:09am | #4

   As long as you're getting an even color change  it probably doesn't matter.  Seems like you'd notice if the chunks were causing corresponding darker places on the wood. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   KeithNewton | Jul 19, 2004 09:53pm | #2

   I guess I missed the early part of this thread, but I'll assume that you are looking for a good black dye for wood. I like Fiebings USMC leather dye.

   The only thing to be cautious of is to not use any more than what is needed to get it covered. Too much causes it to blush.

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jul 20, 2004 07:34pm | #5

   Rootburl,

   I generally use a mordant, like acetic acid and ferrous oxide, to enhance the staining effect, although a mordant, alone, is sometimes all that I need to achieve the results I'm after.

   In species with a high tanin content, like oak, applying the mordant before coloring results is a deep, saturated appearance that stain or dye alone cannot provide; application of a mordant before your USMC stain could help with the blushing.

   Hope this is helpful,-Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.