Replies

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 09, 2008 11:53pm | #1

   I took the rails down to 40" from 52" as I do no large panels and I need the space it blocked in a traffic pattern. Re-capped the rails and extension table I cut down also. Added a UHMW stop at the end of rail to block the fence from coming off as it is slick... very slick.

   No phenolic inserts on the market for this saw (to change soon as Ron Lee from Leecraft dropped by IWF and took measurements) so I made 4 zero clearances from birch ply. I spent around $30 and got some plumbing supplies from the Box. It became my swing support for a new over-head dust shield I modified from a PS ($25) big mouth shield. Added 6" port to standard 4" port on the saw.

   Made a half fence from UHMW ($4) which attaches with Rockler universal clamps ($15) on the stock fence. I made one of my larger spring-boards for support left from ply scrap... then added a large T track on the left end of my table with 3/8 aircraft bolts for around $12. A crown guard of scrap hard-wood from the scrap bucket was made an attached to the splitter. The standard splitter hex head bolts were removed and I added quick release (1/4 turn each) cam levers.

   The saw has a 4" wide throat and is 14" long (same as PM 66) so it's easy to get inside to change blades and remove splitter which takes about 10 seconds to do. I also removed the fixed pin on the splitter and replaced with a hex bolts and 3 prong handle so the plastic shield comes off separately in about 6 seconds.

   The kill switch could be larger and is not paddle.. so I made a paddle switch that is larger. Even an old blind squirrel can find this Panic Button! And as I rip often and in some hefty lengths... I needed front and rear friction supports. I modified two Rigid flip top stands for that task. They can be closed and stood on a wall when not in use. The front support is MDF attached to my workbench via the LV twin screw vise.

   That's about it.. what was an excellently machined saw with no bells and whistles became a very safety minding machine with home-made bells and whistles. Some bought some scrap with about $87 out-lay on my part as I had the two Rigid stands on hand.

   Pictures follow in no certain order. I just finished a BR suit and start a coffee table in a few days. I do have about 2000 sq. ft. of rough air dry coming into my shop I am doing for hire in two weeks. The saw is now ready...

   So.... no matter if delicate as the coffee table or raw as the rough stock.. I can stand to one side out of the lane.. keep my hands out of the Red Zone and......

   Let the Big Dawg Eat....

   Sarge..

    

   
1. 
   LB | Sep 10, 2008 12:29am | #2

   Looks nice. Congratulations.

   Lyle

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 01:58am | #4

   Thank you Lyle..

   Sarge..

2. 
   Jimurock | Sep 10, 2008 01:22am | #3

   Schweet setup Sarge, and even a few new wrinkles.   Should be an inspiration to the rest of us.

   Jim

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 02:01am | #5

   Thank Jim... the panic button was new for me made from a piece of scrap bass-wood and a door hinge hung under the rail. I'm getting old and can't find the dern thing as well as I used to. This one shouldn't be a problem to find as it kinda finds you. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

   Sarge..

3. 
   gofigure57 | Sep 10, 2008 02:15am | #6

                 Sarge,  Enough, Get back to work, I wanna see the coffee table. Nice job, I Expect nothing less from you.  Long live Sarge.

     Impressed by you always, Tom.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 04:14am | #8

   "Sarge,  Enough, Get back to work, I wanna see the coffee table.. Tom

   So does my wife.. Will get started on the CT by next Monday if all goes well.

   Thanks mucho...

   Sarge..

4. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 10, 2008 02:42am | #7

   Thanks for the pictures.. Nice wheels also!

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 04:16am | #9

   You're quite welcome Will. I need two trucks.. one to haul wood and one to haul WW machines. At least that's how I justified it to the lady that lives here and controls traffic. :>)

   Regards...

   Sarge..

5. 
   Aftonwood | Sep 10, 2008 04:31am | #10

   Sarge,You certainly are the standard-bearer in terms of setting up a table saw for maximum safety and usefulness - great work! I’ll bet you could rip boards all day on that new saw with no fear of kickb…….NEVER MIND, I think we have been down that road. ; -) (JUST KIDDING!)Great looking saw, nice additions that you have made to it, and as another poster said, nice wheels besides. Looks like you could just turn the truck 90 degrees and use the bed as your outfeed table.Enjoy your new toy!Jerry

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 05:38am | #11

   Thanks Jerry... I think "reduced fear" of kickback would be more fitting as has been discussed somewhere amongst the rubble. :>)

   " Looks like you could just turn the truck 90 degrees and use the bed as your outfeed table"... Jerry

   I'll get on that theory tomorrow along with a possible eye hook attached to the leading edge of the stock being ripped. A winch mounted in the forward bed with cable to eye hook creating a combo out-feed and Ram Charged Power feed. Whoa... we very well may be onto something "big" here. ha.. ha... ha.. ha..ha..

   I suppose what I better be onto is a new coffee table as when my wife saw I added the Georgia Bulldog magnetic decal today when she developed those pictures for on-line... I was told to get on the coffee table and quit having fun.

   So... the commander and chief has spoken softly but carries a big stick... and knows how to use it for that matter! :>)

   Regards...

   Sarge..

    

6. 
   flairwoodworks | Sep 10, 2008 06:27am | #12

   Sarge,

   Good lookin' saw there.  I couldn't see the off switch you installed - must be behind that big red thing.  I like your outfeed system.  Easy on, easy off.  It's nice to spend some time getting stuff set up perfect so that everything goes smoothly down the road.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 06:08pm | #15

   Thanks Chris... it's ready to do some serious work finally as all seems to be back in place. I gave my old spring-board and all the goodies (including over-head dust) to the young gentleman that purchased my Uni-saw so I had to start from ground zero. The out-feed was simply a matter of the Rigid stands catching my eye when thinking about how I would approach extensions.

   Saw them hanging over some MDF cut-offs and two and two came together from that observation. A cup of coffee.. an open mind and an occasional intense stare around the shop sometimes pays benefits. And I love my new paddle switch even though the hinge cost $2.47 and I didn't have one on hand or one my wife would let me remove from a door in the house. ha.. ha... ha.. ha..ha..

   Sarge..

1. 
   jointerman | Sep 11, 2008 07:47am | #28

   Hi Sarge,You mentioned:"The out-feed was simply a matter of the Rigid stands catching my eye when thinking about how I would approach extensions.Saw them hanging over some MDF cut-offs and two and two came together from that observation. A cup of coffee.. an open mind and an occasional intense stare around the shop sometimes pays benefits."I've got one of those Rigid rockers collecting dust in the corner of the shop. I like what you did. So, how do you attach the MDF to the saw table?

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 11, 2008 07:46pm | #31

   I have four of the Rigid's and they don't collect dust. I wish I had more as I think they don't carry them anymore? But.. some stores still have some laying around.. so thanks for reminding me as I will go in search of two more this afternoon. I use them on a DP.. BS and jointer when stock is long as the top flips conveniently and the surface is friction as opposed to slippery roller or ball bearing. I think they a the best support stand every made.

   Now.. to answer your question. I attached the MDF to the top of the stand buy counter-sinking and shooting 5 sheet metal screws through the MDF right into the hard plastic stand top. Cut a slot for the splitter in the center and cut away on one side so my fence can be moved all the way to the blade on the cut side.

   You won't have to do that with most fences but the Steel City Industrial is made the the original Biesemeyer and has a bolt on the back side that goes down to the rear rail. A nylon pad on the base actually rides the rear rail and that is why the Steel City fence is the smoothest on the market. The fence rear doesn't touch the table as the re-designed Biesemeyer. Why Biesemeyer dropped that rear bolt is beyond me as they had a great fence and reduced it to a good fence. Oh well...

   One of the pictures shows how I attached. I will isolate and attach it again as I did have many pictures. But... I added a block of hardwood on the rear rail same width allowing for the thickness of the 1/2" MDF which sits on the lip of the rear rail top. I drilled two 5/16" holes to attach the wooden block to the rear rail and counter-sunk the heads.

   Next I butted the MDF front extension lip to the back of the table and clamped. Then I drill two 1/4" holes vertical through the MDF and 1" deep into the block. I glued two Kreg 1/4" dowels into the wooden rail block and left them 1/2" proud. Those dowels correspond to the holes I drilled simultaneously through the MDF and block.

   Simply slide the table up and let if flip up slightly.. Then press it down onto the dowels which fit very firm so the extension cannot slide back out of position. To remove just put your hand under the MDF Xtension and tap it up.. up..  up and away.

   Edit to add...  in the picture the table sits to one side for a better view. The slot would be aligned with the splitter and the hole correspond to the exposed dowel heads.

   Life is simple at the Sarge Shop. Cheap also...  :>)

   Sarge..

   Edited 9/11/2008 12:50 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

   
7. 
   chaim | Sep 10, 2008 06:03pm | #14

   She's a real beauty! and it looks like your add ons really...well add on!

   Use her in good health.

   Chaim 

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 06:39pm | #18

   Thank you Chaim... I did get a few e-mails from Israel this morning asking me to please tone down the Red on that Panic button. It appears that the sun-light was reflecting off it all the way to Israel and causing a large glare problem there. It appears about all the shelves of sun-glasses there have been depleted by a phenomenal glare coming somewhere from the U.S.... ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

   Just kidding of course...

   Sarge.. 

8. 
   Jimurock | Sep 10, 2008 06:37pm | #17

   Greetings again Sarge.

   I'm working on changing the extension table set-up on my saw, and something about your setup is puzzling me.   How do you move the saw?

   With the saw's tilt mechanism housing on the left-hand side, you're told to put the pedal for raising the mobile base on that side also, which you've done.   (Mine's on the right.)  That means that when you press the pedal to move the saw, the left side of the saw rises, the right side doesn't, and a lot of the weight is transferred to the right-hand extension legs.  Even if you had wheels on those legs, the weight would be borne by the single wheel on the mobile base, and the 2 small wheels on the extension table.  Isn't there a danger of racking something?  I'd have thought that for this model saw SC would have recommended putting the pedal in the middle of the saw so that you could move the saw by using the extension table like the handles of a wheelbarrow.  Maybe my tired brain is missing something -- wouldn't be the first time!

   Cheers, Jim

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 07:30pm | #19

   A good question Jim.. Even though I don't think that the saw would rack.. I would put them on the right side also which I have not done. I used the rails to walk this 500 lber. down two home-made ATV ramps by shifting it from side to side about 2" a walk by myself. Once on the ground I had to wait for my son to drop by to get it on the mobile base.

   I lifted the saw with the rails and he popped the base under. Then we walked it on before I realized he had put the kick pedal on the left. Not  big deal I thought as I was tired and we only had to roll it about 3' to it's final resting spot as it is a permanent one in my shop. I simply don't move the saw as the space is dedicated.

   But if I did move it.. I would have to screw the feet pad on the table extensions up to the top.. then loosen the U clamp holding the PVC tubing for the over-head dust system. No big deal in this case as I opted to not use the mobile base extensions as I knew I was going to cut off 10" of rail and table. The main weight is in the main table and the massive shafts.. gears.. and motor with more weight in the cast iron extensions. So.. still no problem for rack IMO.

   But I am going to turn it around to foot lever right for this reason. My dust port on this saw is on the left side low as opposed to the 3 HP and under saws in the rear. I had to come off it with a 4" L fitting to turn it toward the rear to connect to a 6" hose from my cyclone using a 4" - 6" adapter. I want to eliminate the adapter but a 6" L off the saw will not clear the foot lever. So... I will turn it around to do so and cut a 6" port in the saw for a 6" dust port.

   If you are using the mobile extension with 50" rails as I opted not to... leave it on the right as it makes more sense really. Circumstances got mine left and the circumstances will be changed as soon as I get some assistance.

   There you go.. regardless of what the manual says in this case... do what makes the most sense with your own set-up.... :>)

   Sarge.. 

1. 
   Jimurock | Sep 10, 2008 08:02pm | #20

   Thanks Sarge -- makes sense.   My shop's so small (20' x 10') that everythings on skates except me.  I only have room for 30' rails, but I'm putting a cast-iron router-top in place of the right extension, so I want to support the extra weight with legs.  I figure with the pedal on the right I won't need a mobile-base extension, or wheels on the legs because I can move it by using the rails-extension as a handle.

   Cheers, Jim

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 09:21pm | #23

   You are so correct Jim. I really only need 30" rails but on occasion I could have use 36" as I mainly rip. I do cut down some ply for chest backs and drawer bottoms but cut them down with a circular or my Bosch barrel grip jigsaw before taking smaller sizes to the TS.

   The extension legs really aren't called for to support weight. But they need to be on there regardless of the fact they are not needed even with a full sheet of ply. We almost did not put them on the my TS which was used for demo at IWF as we would rip and cross-cut only. But.. we did put them on and here's why.

   It would only be a matter of time before some idiot sat or leaned heavily on that end and the rails would act as levers as you noted. The saw will tip to that side easily using those rails with some force applied to them. So we put them on to avoid liability issues and you should put them on also just in case someone decides to sit down on it in your absence.

   You have a good plan as is IMO with the right approach. All you really need to do is execute it to be good to go.

   Sarge..

2. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2008 01:57am | #42

   Just a comment.

   I have a Ridig TS3660 with a cast iron BenchDog ProMax on it and a JessEm MastRSlide 7500.  All the original cast iron tables on on it also in addition to the added stuff. The saw is HEAVY now.

   I'm a bit surprised because I move the saw all the time and the casters STILL WORK!

   My comment is that I put the ProMax on the left of the blade then the original cast iron table on. The saw wanted to tip down to the left if I put any weight on the left end.

   I made a single adjustable leg and put it in the center at the extreme left end of the last cast iron table. I adjusted it so it just touches the floor when the casters are raised to lower the saw on it's feet.

   My small shop floor is reasonably lever but some raised cracks from a huge maple tree that somehow decided to find water under my shop floor!

   Just saying, one 'anti-tip' leg works fine and only one thing to adjust if necessary.

3. 
   Jimurock | Sep 12, 2008 03:36am | #44

   I had a General router top to the left of a Ridgid too, but in place of the left wing, so I didn't need any support -- didn't tip at all.

   I tried it in the same place on my SC, but it interfered a little with the saw's tilt handle.  I can't put it in place of the right wing because the tilt mechanism's under there.  That just leaves the right extension wing, so that's where it has to go, and it'll make the saw tippy at the right.

   The saw had one or two QC problems, so SC are sending me a new one, and setting it up in my shop.   Right now it's sitting in the dealer's warehouse until the rain stops, which looks like Tuesday, so I can't make any modifications till then.  I'll probably do 2 legs because the saw weighs about 450 lbs without the router, but I'll give everything a shot.  Thanks for the ideas,

   Jim

4. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2008 04:47am | #45

   but it interfered a little with the saw's tilt handle.  I have the same problem if you want to call it that. I have a router lift and still get on my butt on the floor to change bits! Exercise I call it! I figure if I cannot sit on the floor to change a router bit I'm to old for woodworking!

   On my RIdgid, I have to 'tip' the router a bit to crank the angle wheel! If only life was that easy!

   Bye the way, I went to my local Stone shop and asked how much to drill holes and put in threaded inserts for bolts for my Slider and cast iron table Router table..

   I ran out quickly! More than the Granite saw would cost!

   Edited 9/11/2008 9:56 pm by WillGeorge

5. 
   Jimurock | Sep 12, 2008 06:26am | #48

   What happened with mine was that the handle struck the router when you turned it.  I got round that by replacing the long handle with a flat knob, but you still risked skinning your knuckles.  I don't tilt the blade that often, and the router's easy enough to remove, but why give yourself extra work when there's a viable alternative?  I only get a couple of hours a day in the shop anyway, so I have to make good use of them.  Better shaving wood than shaving skin!

   Jim

9. 
   chipsndust | Sep 10, 2008 09:01pm | #22

   Sarge... I'm hoping to get delivery of my SC later this week. Your updates and photos are great, I'm really glad I took your advice last week. BTW...Do you have a tel no. or email address for lee? I'd like to get a couple of the zero inserts as soon as possible

   Many thanks.... Chips

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 09:45pm | #25

   He will sell directly to Steel City and other sources as Highland.. Rockler.. etc. etc. I suggest you call Steel City tech and ask them to find out when the new inserts from Leecraft will be available. If they are not sure.. e-mail me using my name above and I will call Lee who is about 30 miles from me. He stays busy as he is a one man band making inserts for most of the popular saws for many sources. And his inserts are IMO the best being made period.

   In the mean time if they are going to be awhile.. you could make one from birch ply as I did 4. Simply a matter of using the stock insert for a template and drawing it on ply. Cut to within 1mm-2mm of the line on a bandsaw.. drill two small holes in the stock insert and attach to the back of the ply insert with two sheet metal screws. Some use double sided tape but I prefer the positive attachement that method gives. Take it to the router table and use a bearing mounted pattern cutter with the attached stock template as a guide and you will get a perfect home-made insert.

   But.. if you don't have a BS.. jigsaw or pattern bit for the router.. best to just buy as his is phenolic and will have a perfect adjustable fit.

   Sarge..

   Edited 9/10/2008 2:47 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

1. 
   chipsndust | Sep 10, 2008 09:54pm | #26

   10/4 & thanks..... My plan ' B' was to make inserts until his were available.

   Chips

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 11, 2008 01:24am | #27

   Mine fit like a glove, Chips.. it so happens the depth of the throat is almost the exact depth of the 1/2" ply which isn't 1/2". I added a piece of slick tape over the inside metal tab on one side and it shimmed without having to add any adjuster screws. I did add a hold down in teh rear of insert with a sheet metal screw. Again tight as a parade glove and I made four at once off one 4 1/4 strip.

   El Cheapo strikes again... :>)

   Sarge..

2. 
   chipsndust | Sep 11, 2008 04:08pm | #30

   I've got the ply stock, now I just need delivery of saw!

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 11, 2008 08:17pm | #33

   Where are you? If close just bring it by and you can use my TS until it arrives as the "welcome mat" is always out at the Sarge shop. :>)

   Sarge...

    

4. 
   chipsndust | Sep 11, 2008 08:35pm | #34

   Thanks for the  offer. I'm up in Chicagoland.  I still have my Bosch contractor TS until delivery of the new SC.  A trim carpenter friend will be the new owner of the Bosch once the SC is up and running.

   BTW... I called SC this morning and spoke w/ Jim in technical, a really good guy. Said the LeeCraft inserts are now available, Stk # 35831

   Chips

5. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 11, 2008 11:45pm | #38

   That's Jim Box you spoke to.. Scott Box's (president of SC) brother. Both are great guys as I worked with them 3 days before the Show and during. I met them about 3 years ago and we speak fairly often. Glad to hear the inserts are ready. I had the feeling from the impression I had of Lee that he doesn't let any moss grow on a stone.

   BTW.. had a business partner in Lombard (he lived in St. Charles) once upon a time.. Great Greek guy...

   Sarge..

2. 
   jointerman | Sep 10, 2008 09:04am | #13

   Hi Sarge,

   Job well done! That shiny new saw looks great. It took me a couple of sittings to get through all the pictures. 5HP!!!! Someday, I'll get a new saw... BTW: can you really feel the difference between 3HP and 5HP?

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 06:30pm | #16

   Thanks JM... you really don't "feel" the difference in the increased HP with 8/4 and under stock IMO, JM. Both blades are still spinning after start up at around 4000 rpm and 4300 in the case of this saw. But... I have a piece of 10/4 maple that my 3 HP saw would burn with a 20 T saw as you could feel real resistance when you ripped it. Enough resistance that I deemed it not a good idea and would take to the BS as I suspected some grain direction change inside it.

   But I left the stock Steel City blade which is 40 tooth on the saw and it will wade through it with some burn but no real resistance by slowing the feed rate down. But.. when I changed over to the 20 T Amana rip blade it left no burn.. I felt no resistance to speak of and the feed rate didn't slow at all as it pretty much ate it and begged for more.

   So.. I personally think that 3 HP is good wtih hardwood up to around 8/4 with well properly dried stock..5 HP is good to go with up to 12/4 as that is the limit of a 10" blade. If I had a lot of 16/4 and up I would have to go to a 12" blade and if I did so.. I would bump the HP to 7.5 or 10. But even though I do occasionally get 16/4 and up... my larger BS will get the call as I can't warrant the price of upgrade with the amount I do.

   Hope that helps and just my opinion of how the stock test felt to me which has no scientific backing but based on what I observe.. what I felt feeding and end results. For me a case of better to have and not need than need and not have.

   Sarge..

   Edited 9/10/2008 11:31 am ET by SARGEgrinder47

1. 
   jointerman | Sep 10, 2008 08:17pm | #21

   Sarge,Interesting things for me to ponder while I'm dreaming about a new table saw. I have my shop wired for a 5HP saw, but that was for a what-if scenario. I was wondering if the 5HP is less dangerous because you never really have to force wood through the saw, does that even make sense? As for burned wood, I assume that you could just pass the burned wood through the jointer or planer to clean it up too. If I got a 5HP saw, then I'd feel obligated to start buying that pricey 12/4 stock!

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 10, 2008 09:32pm | #24

   I personally think it is safer if you hit any hidden knots or grain change as it will motor on through in most cases. But... if you get great resistance either with a 3 HP or 5 HP (or 7.5-10-12) for that matter.. best to hit the Panic button and re-assess. So.. if you are wired for 30 A which it requires for 5 HP and the difference in price is not substantial.. it would just make sense to me to have the 5 HP for the reason I stated about having and not needing and not having and needing.

   On burned wood.. that is showing that either the saw is mis-aligned.. blade dull or feed rate is too slow in most cases which could be due to you not feeding fast enough or the saw not having the needed power.. None of those the case here as the blades were new and saw perfectloy aligned. But the feed rate slowed naturally as the saw is working harder and could not power through resistance as well.

   On burn I agree as I always rip 1/8" wider than final stock as I take it to my jointer which is set dead on 1/16" for a final pass on each side to get to the actual width I want. So burn is not a factor to me with finish but becomes a factor as the saw is trying to tell you something that could be important as dull blade.. alignment.. squirrel grain.. etc.

   Sarge..

   Edited 9/10/2008 2:36 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

2. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2008 02:17am | #43

   As for burned wood..

   I do not have a 5 hp saw. Just a 1.5 hp. Ridgid. Some, but not all purpleheart, Jatoba and Hickory will burn. And I cut up to 2 inch thick on a weekly basis. My say blade and fence are dead on!.. I have tried to cut some of the woods that burned on a friends saw. Powermatic 3 hp (I believe). The sticks that burn on my saw burn on his also.

   I was not specifically looking for it but I do not recall that the wood was that much easier to cut on his machine that mine. He paid over 3 grand for it and I think mine was about $600.00? Not knocking the Powermatic though! Nice saw.

   You mentioned.. you never really have to force wood through the saw..

   Never force the wood.. You are ASKING for trouble!

   Granted, you have to push the stick a 'bit harder' if it is a biggie, but I never need to 'force' the cut, even on my 'little sweetheart' saw... Dull blade makes a BIG difference though.

    

1. 
   jointerman | Sep 12, 2008 09:04am | #49

   Will,Good point about never forcing wood through a saw. That's always a bad idea. I mean, it happens every now and then and you think, "I really shouldn't be forcing this through."My guess is that wood burning is a combination of the saw blade and feed rate. More powerful saw with a rip blade will provide a cleaner faster cut? BTW: I've got a 1.5HP Delta Contractor saw and with my new cyclone, it's a much much nicer machine. In fact, all the machines, except the SCMS, just seem better with a dust collector.

2. 
   ring | Sep 11, 2008 08:06am | #29

   Hi Sarge,I think your assessment of HP and blades is about right. Your 5HP on a 10" blade is slight overkill, but definitely would be required for a 12" blade. I use a 14" Amana blade with 28T (it's marketed as Dimar here) for most work. The 7.5HP motor doesn't blink at anything. Well, almost anything...the very rare rip of 4" thick hardwood will go a little slower than usual, but it's so unusual that it's no factor.I don't know what e-mails you were getting from Israel about the panic paddle. I think it's kinda cute. I find it curious that people who prepare for panic situations are those who almost never panic when something actually happens. Use your saw well.best,
   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 11, 2008 08:13pm | #32

   I almost decided on a 12" David.. but the 12" Steel City is 7.5 and 3 phase which I don't have access to in a home shop. I do a lot of ripping.. surfacing of air dry for hire. I have a cousin that brought me 4000 linear feet of pecan (hickory) in 8/4 - 12/4 and found the 12/4 resist on the 3 HP. It would go through but slow and with burn at blade height capacity. He is bring another 2000 linear feet by in the next several weeks so the 5 HP is just an occasional need for me as a 3 HP would fit the agenda in most cases.

   I probably wouldn't have up-graded unless I could find a scratch and dent 5 HP which is difficult as mostly cabinet shops are the few that use them here. Not as many sold so not as many scratch and dents. The president of Steel City knew I was looking for a scratch and dent and called me with an offer. Would you help 3 days before the International WW Show two weeks ago in Atlanta assembling machines before the show for us.. then work during the show demonstrating. In lieu of money would you like to take home the 5 HP TS used at the show for Demo?  Of course the answer was YES in bold capital letters.

   BTW.. my normal rip blade is the 10" Amana Euro 20 tooth rip blade that is made in Israel. 20 T in 10" relates to 28 T in 14" and I wouldn't be at all surprised if it's not the same as the Dimar or very similar? Great blade as I have two. One on the saw and one in the ready as the local sharpener is 4 miles away and charges $7.50 U.S. for a 20 T or 24 T. Life is good! :>)

   Regards from the southern U.S.....

   Sarge..

1. 
   heartwould | Sep 11, 2008 08:44pm | #35

   Let me know how your 5hp does with the Pecan. That's some really tough wood, but a beautiful grain! I would think that it would require at least 3hp spinning a pretty good blade to get through it at all.

2. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 11, 2008 11:48pm | #39

   I did 4000 linear feet with the 3 HP Uni-saw H W... It did fine with the 6/4 and down but slowed some with 8/4... but slowed considerably with 10/4 and 12/4. I used two 20 T rip blades on the 4000 lf. I would use one and the other was at my sharpener as he gives me a two day turn-a-round for $7.50 for  a 20 T.

   But I will report on the new say with the pecan...

   Sarge..

3. 
   ring | Sep 11, 2008 09:20pm | #36

   Sarge,You were in the right place at the right time to get that saw. And I would guess that the experience of working at the IWF was a rewarding one in it's own right. I'd love to come one time but with the price of airfares nowadays it's just ridiculously expensive.Regarding Amana / Dimar - I've never really checked this thoroughly but I'm pretty sure that Amana is just the brand name that Dimar uses to market blades in the US. The home factory is in the Galilee about 30 minutes drive from me, and I know they have a second facility in Canada. I'm quite sure that the blades I've seen in the US labelled Amana are identical to what I use with the Dimar label.Whatcha gonna do with all that hickory?David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

4. 
   dougmeyer | Sep 11, 2008 10:55pm | #37

   Sigh.... All this talk about the SC saw makes me really wish they had been out 6 months sooner. Then I would have a SC vs my Delta. But the insurance co. made me buy it when I did..... My Delta is nice and all (it happens to some of us, if we get lucky) but that SC just is made better.  Oh well I can not justify swapping them, no matter how I drool over them at the trade shows.

   Oh and Sarge I could not believe the way the fence slides until I tried it. I showed it to a couple people at the Local wood expo last week (push and see how it slides) and while it only slide maybe about 2' or so it was something to see. People were trying it out the next time I walked past it. On the other hand the guy rep'ing SC was not two impressive. He seamed more interested in the football game then the people at the show, I was at his area at least 4 or 5 times and kept looking at the little baby lathe and he never even said hello to me.  (I am thinking about getting a baby lathe for misc use). And I have NO idea if the guy worked for the store putting on the show or SC or someone else. He was not dressed like one of the guys from the store, so I assume he is a SC rep.

   Doug M.

5. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 12, 2008 12:11am | #41

   The fence is a piece of work Doug... even though Biesemeyer used that fence in it's original design. It's the only fence on the market you can move with your hand.. walk to the front and lock the cam (requires just a touch) and you wont see the rear of the fence kick left. It stays positive 90 degree at all times are the fence does not touch the table and drag.

   Funny you mentioned Show. The TS that sat in the front corner at IWF with all the traffic was the one most would walk up to. They would slide the fence and push the lever down to engage the cam. I must have seen a thousand people lock that cam. About 900 of them pushed it down with maximum force. Something like a death blow with an axe.

   I would walk up to them and say, "let me show you something".  I would gently push down to engage which is does almost immediately with my index finger. The general reply comment was "whoa.. that doesn't take much to lock it".

   I am just glad it was not my 5 HP saw that was sitting in that corner as I would probably had to replace the lock cam after it had been forced down so many times. But we checked it as a gentleman had purchased that floor model before we loaded and the cam was fine.

   Regards...

   Sarge..

6. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2008 05:28am | #46

   It's the only fence on the market you can move with your hand..   ?? My junk Ridgid can do that! I just have to remember to lock the handle!

7. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 12, 2008 05:53am | #47

   "It's the only fence on the market you can move with your hand.. walk to the front and lock the cam (requires just a touch) and you wont see the rear of the fence kick left. It stays positive 90 degree at all times are the fence does not touch the table and drag" post 42..

   When you slide the fence from the back side of the saw.. release it and walk around and lock it.. does the rear of the fence move slightly left when you depress the lock cam?

   Sarge..

8. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 13, 2008 04:39am | #50

   When you slide the fence from the back side of the saw..

   Not sure I understand moving the fence from the back. I never have.

   I'm always removing and reinstalling my fence. I can move my fence with one hand and it locks at 90. The fence does not move to the side when locking it.

   In fact, in the several years I have had my saw, I have only had to adjust it once. When I installed the JessEm sliding table. I took the rails off to cut them down a bit in length.

   I would like the mass of a 'fancy fence' but I really have never had a problem with my fence so I have never upgraded to a better one..

9. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 13, 2008 06:13pm | #51

   You wouldn't normally slide your fence from the back side, Will. That was just a way of comparing the SC Industrial fences to other T-square fences as the Biesemeyer as all those will all cant to the direction you moved it. And when you press the lock lever the fence will move at the rear to the 90 degree position to correct the cant.

   Again... just a comparison to T-square fences. I don't believe your Rigid is a T-square from memory. I was going to look at one yesterday at Home Depot but they don't have the Rigid line in stock anymore. Just pictures and you have to order them if you want one. BTW... the Rigid is an excellent contractor saw.

   Just curious... does your fence connect and lock on both ends or just the front?

   Sarge..

10. 
    WillGeorge | Sep 14, 2008 01:53am | #52

    When you press the lock down it pull on a rod attached to a lever at the back and squeezes the fence assembly to the front and back rails. A clamping action.

11. 
    SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 14, 2008 03:19am | #53

    And that's why you don't see a kick left at rear Will... it's not a T-Square as I thought. You don't see many fences that lock on the rear rail anymore as you once did.

    Regards...

    Sarge..

12. 
    Y1RET | Sep 14, 2008 06:09am | #54

    Kind of off topic but how do you like the JessEm sliding table? I have been thinking about adding a sliding table. I like the JessEm but I am leaning toward an Exaktor because it can be attached without removing the left extension.  Just wondering how much you use it, how accurate it is and how well it has held up. <!----><!----><!---->

    <!----> <!---->

    Thanks, <!----><!---->

    Bob T.<!----><!---->

13. 
    WillGeorge | Sep 14, 2008 09:48am | #55

    Kind of off topic but how do you like the JessEm sliding table? I have been thinking about adding a sliding table. I like the JessEm but I am leaning toward an Exaktor because it can be attached without removing the left extension.  Just wondering how much you use it, how accurate it is and how well it has held up.

     

    Hard to answer.. In a way.. 1)   I use mine on a Ridgid TS. No Left extension needed to be removed.

     

    2)  Exaktor? I never saw one so I cannot comment.

     

    3)  Just wondering how much you use it.. I'd say like any tool in the workshop.. I use it when I need it!

        However, I remove the fence most of the time and will use the table as a support for cutoffs.

        I use Hardwood Ply ALOT! and it help ALOT!

     

    4)  how accurate it is.. Not sure...      I get cuts I can live with! Just like my TS..

         Best I can say is... If I can, I will clamp the left side (that will be the cutoff)      to the sliders small auxiliary extension table so it does not fall on the floor! I get a straight cut!

     

    5) Only had mine about three years... Not that long for a longevity test!

     

    All in all, the fence is in  the way for most of my work.. For ripping if not using the bandsaw..

     

    Best answer I can give.. It was expensive at the time but I would get another if I had to do it over again!

     

    EDIT!

    By the way.. It is NOT made for stock that will need a outrigger! I use a roller stand I set-up beforehand...<!----><!----><!---->

    Edited 9/14/2008 2:52 am by WillGeorge

14. 
    SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 12, 2008 12:00am | #40

    I met Scott Box (president of SC) just after Steel City hit the market. I got to know his brother Jim (over technical) through him and we became somewhat close friends as I speak to them usually around once week. That has paid dividends for both me and them really.

    I believe you are correct on your call of the Dimar. I spoke to some Amana reps at IWF and they pretty much said the same thing. The blade I buy is clearly marked Made in Israel and I am strongly inclined to think it is basically a Dimar.

    Got around 2000 linear feet coming from a cousin who develops land and tries to recover any good wood. I did 4000 linear feet of the 8000 l f haul on this one grab he made about two years ago. He is bringing 2000 of the 4000 remaining he had from the pecan grove. I can opt to be paid cash or take 1/4 as pay. I usually take the 1/4 and turn around and sell most as I don't have enough wood rack to store more than about 600 board feet. I don't need that much pecan at one time anyway.

    So.. I will think about it and make a call latter. The true pecan fetches a bit more than standard hickory here. Some lumber yards try to pass hickory as pecan but their is a distinct difference in color IMO. We shall see what I will do with it?

    Regards...

    Sarge..