Continuing my reputation for action before thought, steam bent a 1/4″ x 1″ x 70″ strip around a 21″ D Shaker candlestand top. Of course there is springback – should have bent around 20%(?) smaller or 17″ D round pattern. My question deals with joining the two ends. Thought a 45 degree end cut would be relatively simple and look better than butting 90 degree ends together. When bending the strip, have to overlap the ends. Seems like these ends are not going to have the same amount of curvature as the rest of the strip. Anyone have experience with this? Does it work out okay? Is it necessary to sand/scrape/… curvature into the inside of the strip at the ends? Angled end cuts a bad idea? Anyone making a round walnut table 21/.8 = 26″ D and need a strip? Thanks.
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Replies
Don, I don't think the 45 degree overlap is nearly steep enough.
I've made a great many shaker-style oval and round boxes...the technique used there is to overlap the joint by several inches and plane a taper on the ends down to a knife-edge.
That would give you much more long-grain surface area for glue adhesion...
But by far my greatest concern would be the seasonal movement of the tabletop across its grain... I think you're heading for disaster unless the tabletop is made of something stable like veneered plywood.
Well I don't think the 45 degree will help-
It's going to take something like 60 or 70 degree on both
ends and then overlap them. I have a product that I make from time to time so I made a fixture that lays in the miter slot on the table for the 12" disc sander. I push the end of the strip into the disc and
against the stop on the fixture. Put glue on them and tie them together with rubber bands.
Robert
Thanks for the input. Tried a longer scarf joint, but springback was far too strong for any glue to hold, left the molding off. Too bad, was curious to see what effect wood movement would have for 21" diameter.
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