Call it beginner learning curve/mistakes.
I have some white oak paneling that I dyed and I don’t like how it turned out. I used light golden oak dye. I only did one coat, and it just didn’t come out how I would have hoped. Now I am wondering if its possible to remove it and just start over and put some shellac on instead. I know that some of it could be removed with water, but what exactly should I do? Should I use warm or cold water, scrub it with a rag, a brush, ???. I’m assuming at some point, I’m going to have to sand it again too.
If anybody has some experience in doing this, I’d appreciated some guidance. If I’m kidding myself to think that I’ll be able to remove this color, please let me know. I’ve thought of just trying another coat of dye, but it’ll just darken it, and its already darker than I thought it would get. My mixture wasn’t even full strength, I’d call it about 7/8’s strength, according to the directions JD Lockwood sent.
Appreciate some tips.
Thanks, Matt
Replies
campbem, if you're using a stain/ dye with an actual name, such as 'light golden oak' you've probably applied a stain-- not the same as a dye, which being a stain, is almost certainly a concotion of oil based agents including mineral spirits, some dye and some pigment.
If it's the stuff that came in a yellow can, and has the name Minwax on it, you can often reduce the intensity of the staining by using mineral spirits with either wire wool or the fake nylon wire wool. It's hard to completely eradicate the original colour that you applied entirely, but maybe try the mineral spirits trick first, and if that fails, I'd suggest using similar techniques, but using lacquer thinners.
Your idea with water won't work,---- if it's a mineral spirits based stain, and you might just make life much harder for yourself. Water will 'wash' out water based stains or dyes, and mineral spirits will 'wash' out oil based dyes or stains.
Do please get back with a specific name for the product you used, and perhaps we can help out a bit better.
Meanwhile, I really ought to get back to one of the polital threads to see if I can twist a tail or two. I love pishing those damn yanks off a bit, ha, ha. Even Arno has joined in. This might, or might not be, fun. Slainte.
Website The poster formerly known as Sgian Dubh.
Edited 3/29/2003 5:22:42 PM ET by Richard Jones
Matt - water and clean rags will lighten the dye a bit and may be more to your liking. You can also use a bleach (chlorine) to remove the color. It may take a couple applications. You'll need a light sanding after bleaching to remove raised grain and sand out the bleached surface of the wood.
What is it about the dye that makes you consider removing it or applying another coat?
Paul
F'burg, VA
Richard -
Ha-ha, you're a funny man. While I am a beginner at using aniline dye, I'm not that green in woodworking.
Paul,
I'll give a shot at using some water and bleach to get as much off as possible.
I don't like it cause it just didn't turn out the shade that I had anticipated. I guess thats why JD Lockwood says their colors on their web site may not be true to form. It has this yellow (almost greenish) tone to it. Not very golden at all. So its not at all what I envisioned. Putting more on will only darken it and its already darker than I want. I should've just followed my first choice and put a shellac on it. Oh well, so much for trying something new.
On to bleaching and sanding.
campbem - a very dilute orange-red dye over the color you have now will shift the color towards amber/gold. That's one of the nice features of dye, you can adjust the color (even after it dries) by using another dye. There's a good article on color theory used in finishing at this link - http://www.liberonsupply.com/ColorTheory.html
I've noticed the names that manufacturers give their dyes don't line up too well with the actual colors sometimes. I always do a good size sample with a dye before using it because of the unexpected colors I get. I've noticed some dyes have to be thinned a lot more than others to get the shade I'm looking for - doing samples is the only way to figure the ratio. Keep the finished samples if you can, with the ratios and steps written on the back for future use.
Paul
F'burg, VA
Go with the bleach. I have used water based anilines stains for years and have simply changed my mind about the color once applied. It will take two to three washes with the bleach and some light sanding but it will work.
On a side note, I've been using oil based aniline stains the last 18 months and find they have a color flexibility the water base aniline stains don't. The down side is that they aren't as color-fast.
Good luck,
Mark Levin
http://www.marklevin.com
[email protected]
I believe the suggestions given above are valid and maybe helpful. The lesson I draw from it is to experiment any new finishing or staining products with a piece of scrap wood.
John Cabot
campbem, I try to amuse from time to time, too. It sounds like Paul might have suggested a reasonable plan. Slainte.Website The poster formerly known as Sgian Dubh.
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