Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Mar 03, 2009 10:19pm | #1

   I have an old wooden jack that I similarly converted and having a scrub in the arsenal is a welcome thing for coarse flattening.

   Note that your conversion, as you describe it, is not really "permanent" -- since a new blade would put things back as they were. However, you may find that, for efficient use, you may need to open up the mouth to clear the "chunks" that a scrub generates. Due to the shape of the blade, you can get some pretty serious depth on the blade, and correspondingly thick shavings. After getting used to whisper-thin shavings from planes, it's pretty impressive, and fun, to see the chips fly when using a scrub. You may wind up clogging things up if you don't add some additional clearance by filing the front of the mouth wider.

   Also, you might wanna consider using a plane somewhat longer than the #3. You might want a longer plane to help things get flat as opposed to following the curve of the rough piece. Once a piece is flat, a shorter plane simply follows the already-flat surface. But it takes a longer plane to get to that point.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

2. 
   Eef | Mar 04, 2009 02:06am | #2

   idaho,

   just curious, did you tune the rest of the plane, you know, flat sole, flat frog, lapped blade back?

   maybe this does not matter with a scrubber.

   eef

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Mar 04, 2009 05:01am | #3

   Chris,

   I converted a #4 with minimal work and have been very happy with its performance. I think that a #3 is a bit small and you should be able to pick up an old #4 for about $15.

   For the conversion, you simply have to regrind the iron. Think radius, rather than camber (camber to me is more subtle). I also took off the chip breaker, as it really isn't needed. Adjustments are simply positioning the blade by feel, then clamping it in place with the lever cap.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

4. 
   roc | Mar 04, 2009 10:20am | #4

   Hi Idaho Chris,

   I modified my stanley no 5 to scrub with. I have been at very hard stuff for the last few years. ( I just work too slow I guess )

   I finally bought a LN scrub and like it very much. I had to put a back bevel on the blade to stop tear out. I think the LN is the way to go for a scrub. That massively thick blade is great for hogging off wood. The thin Stanley sounds like it isn't having a very good time.

   I had a LN #3 for normal use and the grip was too tight to get my whole hand around and I was bashing my wrist on the end of the planks. I just couldn't use it so I returned it. The LN scrub has a full size handle so you can really get after it without a special grip.

   I was discussing this with some one else in the past so I include a pic or two to show where my wrist was colliding with the planks even using the two finger modified grip demonstrated here. That is a #4 used to "reenact " the problem in the pic so no prob with it and I just grip it normally in actual use.

   I have small "girly man" hands so if you don't I would say you are a goner.

   Most people here don't really care for scrub planes. I use mine a lot and find it very useful. I don't have a power jointer or thicknesser though. I guess that makes me too slow AND cheep.

   A quiet neighbor though.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/4/2009 2:35 am by roc

   
1. 
   Eef | Mar 04, 2009 07:04pm | #6

   roc,

   what a useful tatoo!  i keep forgetting which way also, and thought it was just me!  i'm gonna get one of those!

   eef

1. 
   roc | Mar 05, 2009 05:26am | #10

   TatooHa ha haWell as long as you aren't going to go the other way in the future. You and I are old enough we pretty much go one way I suppose. I do any way. I have mine mostly t make it clear to high speed traffic what to expect.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   ndmatt | Mar 05, 2009 05:42am | #11

   My only concern would be the thickness off the blade.  True scrubs have massive blades, twice as thick as your typical Stanley blade.  You might want to get a thicker replacement blade.  As has been mentioned, the #3 is a smallish plane, you might have to back the iron off a little on tough woods and open the mouth to clear shavings.  Overall, it can be done, you'll just have to use due diligence settle for less stock removal sometimes.

   You might want to consider a wooden jack plane.  They'll have thick irons and normally the mouth is plenty open already.

   Good luck!

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Mar 04, 2009 09:09pm | #7

   "Most people here don't really care for scrub planes."

   Just the ones who don't regularly flatten rough stock with hand tools. ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   derekcohen | Mar 05, 2009 02:14am | #8

   "Most people here don't really care for scrub planes."

   Just the ones who don't regularly flatten rough stock with hand tools. ;-)

   Mike Hennessy

   heh .. heh ..

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

2. 
   roc | Mar 05, 2009 05:06am | #9

   >flatten rough stock with hand tools<Hey thanks for the smoke signals !A lot of people here say they have no use for a scrub and even flaten with jack and try/jointer.I can see that in the non super hard stuff. I guess. But I like the little light guy with the thick blade. Keeps from wearing out / scratching up the more expensive planes to.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

3. 
   prbayliss | Mar 05, 2009 06:31am | #12

   Totally agree,The plane discussion too often revolves around wispy thin shavings. There's a time for big fat chips to be removed. I love my LN scrub - saves a ton of time.Best regards,
   Paul

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Mar 05, 2009 03:27pm | #13

   "There's a time for big fat chips to be removed."

   Yep. Once you get one of those things moving, it throws off chips like a chainsaw -- but  just a bit quieter. ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

5. 
   derekcohen | Mar 04, 2009 03:55pm | #5

   Hi Chris

   Amongst others, I have a #3 retreaded as a scrub plane. It works fine in softer timber taking shallowish shavings. It is small for a scrub plane, however, and you will likely find it limiting in the end.

   Interestingly, there are no scrub plane articles in the FWW archives. I did write a review of the LV Scrub here. This contains a comparison with a Stanley #40 (scrub plane) and ECE-type woodie scrub. Of the three my overwhelming preference was for the LV. I found the others too light.

   One of the planes I prefer for use as a scrub-fore plane is a Stanley #5 1/2 with a 5 1/2" radiused blade. This has the length and heft for wider, hardwood boards.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

    

6. 
   gdblake | Mar 06, 2009 07:29am | #14

   You can make a better scrub plane out of scrap hardwood than you can buy and they are simple to make.  Krenov's method of plane construction is easy and quick.  All you really need to do once the glued up the body dries is to square it up and add a tote like on an old wooden jack plane.  The mouth can be wide open and your wedge doesn't have to be all that refined either.  The body can be laminated from several thinner pieces of wood if need be.  Hock, LN, or ECE scrub plane blades are available from Highland Woodworking.  Or, just grind a 3" to 5" radius on any spare iron you might have and leave off the chipbreaker.  Obviously, the width of the plane is controlled by the width of the iron.  I suggest making a plane 14" to 16" long.  Short enough to be easy to control and long enough to keep the board your working relatively flat.  Here is a link to some basic directions by David Marks for making a Krenov style plane to get you started.

   http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_34860,00.html

   Good luck regardless of who's advise you chose to take.  Pretty hard to go wrong no matter what you do.

   gdblake

    

1. 
   idahoknotty | Mar 10, 2009 09:27am | #15

   Hello all,

   As you can tell by my diligent and rapid replies, I'm not spending as much time in the shop as I might like or even in knots...

   The no 3 is tuned up and is in good shape.  I will probably try grinding a radius on the blade of it or my old 5 for this particular job, perhaps the latter to accomodate my not smallish hands (the 3 is indeed small).  I'm saving my gick for a LV BUS or jointer as I have a power planer and jointer and feel the money's better spent on one of those rather than a dedicated scrub right now.  I was sorely tempted by the LV scrub after reading Derek's review!

   In the end, I very well may follow gdblake's suggestion and build the wooden scrub b/c I've been wanting to build a wood plane and have the sense that a scrub might be a good place to start since the tolerances at the mouth should be a bit more forgiving.  But again, I'm wanting to get to building projects rather than tools with my limited shop time (I did just finish a gramercy dovetail saw kit, turned out quite nicely and a great saw).

   Cheers,

   c