Hi,
I was just checking out E-Bay and came across this plane. The seller says it is an origional Stanley plane Jointer #7 Sole stamped “BAILEY” 012-077 Made in England Rosewood handle Nickel plated bright parts are 99.9% Blade is honed and frog is tuned. ready to be put to work. Seller comes from New York.
I am just getting in to handplanes and I don’t want to dish out $530 for a LN 22″ jointer plane. I own a LN #4 smoother, LN low angle block. I am in need of a jointer plane. I do most of my milling using my power planer and jointer. But for flattening a medium size panel/table top or workbench and for removing machine marks a #7 would be ideal.
Any advice. Is this worth bidding on?
wanda
Replies
Hello,
I would recommend that you bid on the plane. I wouldn't go much over $75.00 or so. I found a stanley 7 at an antique store for $25.00 and a #8 for $45.00. I prefer to get a good worker plane that is all there, take it apart and clean it, sharpen the blade until it will shave the hair on my arm, and the reassemble and put it to work. I have a #4 1/2 Anant plane that was fine and thought it was worth the asking price. I can't afford a LN on what disability pays me.
Good luck,
10fingers
Wanda:
You might want to look at this one on eBay if it's not the one you are considering. http://cgi.ebay.com/Very-Clean-Stanley-No-7-Jointer-Plane_W0QQitemZ120529985046QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c10259e16
Stanley #7s typically work well as jointers. When buying one off of eBay I generally look carefully at the pictures and lean towards those with thicker sidewalls. They tend to have the fewest problems and are fairly easy to tune up. Stay away from any with damage, including broken totes. I'm not that concerned with how much japanning is left, but I do look carefully at the lever cap, the iron, sidewalls, and sole for signs of pitting. If I see any I stay clear of the plane.
Good luck,
gdblake
Hi,
Is that plane a 3 date version? (the link you sent) Good thing I found out about the cheap lateral lever before placing any bids. That's why I came here for advice first. :)
Hard to find vintage tools where I live. I went to e-bay because I couldn't find anything locally. I would have to dish out $35.00 for shipping and handling plus whatever the exchange rate is. So I have to decide whether it is still worth it to buy the Stanley plane or save up for a LN or LV.
Wanda
Hi Guys,
The final bid was $154 US.. that's too rich for me. I am not a collector so I'm better off putting my money towards a new LV or LN plane. Their customer service is excellent. I'll just keep on saving till I have enough in my tool fund to buy the #7.
wanda
Unless you collect specific dates of plane.The UK Stanleys were quite often thicker castings than the US made ones.I see that as an advantage to you.Put in a bid and good luck Jako
Wanda:
The England built plane is not as good as the link I sent you. It is a newer model with a cheap one piece lateral adjuster. Go for an older model. The planes made in the USA between the early 1900's to 1940s have better components than those made in England.
gdblake
Wanda, gdblake has hit the nail squarely on the head.
That plane was made recently, probably had plastic knob & tote and it has the reinforcing ribs cast on top of the sole that are not on the old ones. Paddy.
I'll chime in with gdblake and Paddydahat. Stanley's "pre-war" planes were considered the peak by many. Cheaper and cheaper after the "war."
See if you can find something locally (although I have bought a number on ebay -- long as you ask if there is anything broken, chipped, cracked or otherwise damaged -- with good success) as you may find it cheaper. That way you can learn (if you don't already know) how to take them apart, clean them, de-rust them, sharpen and hone them, and make some sweet super-thin shavings.
I have L-N, Veritas and Stanleys, and reach for a Stanley (3-date version) just as frequently as a L-N or Veritas. But, I learned everything on the Stanleys.
Have fun!
Alan -planesaw
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