Replies

1. 
   John_D | May 05, 2006 04:45am | #1

   Breaktime is the right place for that query.  This is really for woodworking...

   Good luck!

   My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
1. 
   teacherterry | May 05, 2006 08:08am | #2

   I am a woodworker also - just thought that some one like, like a good cross-training shoe, might be able to help out step out of their woodworker habitat and offer some advice. 

   Edited 5/5/2006 1:18 am ET by teacherterry

2. 
   RickL | May 05, 2006 03:06pm | #3

   I'd be willing to bet there are some good concrete and stone forums  and sites out there with all the answers already posted. I always find that the info is already out there just wainting to be read. Plus i don't really want to wait for the answer so it's quicker to just find the info and I can check several sources out to make sure which info makes the most sense. There is plenty of wrong information out here. Some of the best sources are the tech pages of manufacturers and dealers of products.

3. 
   JeffHeath | May 05, 2006 03:37pm | #4

   terry

   Hope I can help.  I've been a concrete contractor for the last 20+ years.  We've been installing stamped concrete for the last 10. 

   First, you must power wash the surface.  3000-3500 psi is the right range, and use a 15° tip, not the zero tip which will rip the surface apart and leave lines.  Make sure not to remove the release color agent, which would be the secondary color.  This was added last as the impression color (shadow lines), and since you haven't sealed in 3 years, the pressure washer WILL remove it, so be careful.

   In your yellow pages, find your local concrete contractor supply house.  We use a product called Diamond clear coat.  It comes in 5 gallon buckets.  You want to roll it on with a 3/4" nap roller, and don't leave ridges, as they will show horribly.  Make sure to get in all the little nooks and crannies, or they will show for sure.  Let it dry all the way, (not tacky), and apply a second coat. 

   A little side advice, don't do this if you have trees that are budding.  This stuff is extremely sticky, and the little buds off of the trees and bushes will make a mess of it.  Ditto in the fall with leaves falling.

   Jeff

   Oh yes, almost forgot.  With regards to the 'scraped' areas, integral colorant, the colorant used when the concrete was poured "wet", will not work on cured concrete.  You will have to experiment with a concrete dye or stain (same source) to get a proper color match.  If it's really bad looking now, I'd make a small square of concrete frmed up (say a bag or two), let it cure for a week, and try the stain on it to test the color match.  Your local supplier should be able to get you close with color if you bring him a good picture of the existing color, or if you can contact the original contractor and get the brand of colorant he used, as well as his source.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/5/2006 8:42 am ET by JeffHeath

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 05, 2006 08:10pm | #5

   GEEE Stupid here! What the heck is 'stamped concrete' ?

1. 
   JeffHeath | May 06, 2006 12:05am | #6

   Will,

   Stamped concrete is concrete which has colorant and an impression pressed into it on the surface to look like a desired effect.

   Jeff

1. 
   WillGeorge | May 07, 2006 06:33pm | #9

   Thanks.. Sort of what I though..
   My neighbor just had this front 'walkway' made this way.Looks GREAT!

2. 
   teacherterry | May 06, 2006 06:39pm | #7

   Jeff-

   One of the best things about these forums are responses like I have gotten from you.  It's hard to find this kind of professional advice.  I will use all of the great info you have provided.

   Thanks,

   Terry Steiner

   Seattle, WA

1. 
   JeffHeath | May 07, 2006 08:23am | #8

   Terry,

   No problem.  We're all here to help each other.  I'm sure you'll return the favor someday.  Good luck.

    

   Jeff