Replies

1. 
   DennisS | Oct 02, 2002 05:24am | #1

   Joey -

   I may be missinterpreting what you describe, but if you apply new treads on top of the existing stair, won't you have a problem with the riser height at the top and bottom treads?

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   frenchafry | Oct 02, 2002 06:55am | #2

   Probably didn't make that part clear. I would need to remove the plywood that is now on the stringers and replace with hardwood. Maybe oak...Idon't know what hardwood I want yet.

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Oct 02, 2002 04:58pm | #3

   Joey,

   Solid hardwood treads are normally milled down from 6/4 or 5/4 stock to a full 1" thickness.  If there is a center stringer, you might be able to get away with using 4/4 dressed to 3/4" if that's the thickness of the existing treads.

   Based on your description it's a tad difficult to give concise recommendations; are both flights and landing totally enclosed?  Are there "skirt boards"?  What are the details of the wainscoting, particularly where it meets the treads and risers?

   Dano"Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright

1. 
   frenchafry | Oct 03, 2002 07:52am | #8

   Yes, all landings are enclosed. Also the skirt boards are also the bottom of the wainscoating and I definitely do not want to try to remove them so I'm stuck with installing risers and treads to fit snug against the wainscoating.

2. 
   MWQuick | Oct 03, 2002 03:38am | #4

   Joey,

   As long as you give the tread stock time to acclimate to the room you can scribe them to fit snug. Be careful not to make them too tight and push out too much on the skirt board.  This will create gaps between the last tread you've done and the skirt where you just finished getting it nice and snug.

   I'm not big on using screws for treads. No matter how you plug the holes, they stand out like sore thumbs. I usually pre-drill and use 16d galvanized finish nails and use a sandable filler.

   Monty

   http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/3d9b8990008edd82271a401e1d290697/UserTemplate/82?s=3d9b8990008edd82271a401e1d290697&c=1578d5ab09f74f239c9030797bfda71f&p=1

1. 
   frenchafry | Oct 03, 2002 07:48am | #7

   Thanks for the information. I think I'll go with the screws though. Although I may try to use the method in the article you provided by using a ratchet underneath the treads for the screws. Also the site you provided cost me $81 in books that I just had to have.

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 03, 2002 06:58am | #5

   If the tread is enclosed at both ends, how are you going to scribe the ends?  The unscribed tread won't fit flat into position so you can mark where to trim it.   When I did stairs like that, I built an adjustable template.   Lemme try to describe it.   Think of a stair tread.  Now chop out the middle of it, so just the ends remain.  Now lay a couple of strips of wood on top, running from one end piece to the other end piece.  Connect those strips to the end pieces with thumb screws.  The thumb screws ride in slots in the strips, and screw into tapped holes in the end pieces.  If you loosen the thumbscrews, you can push the two end pieces apart, or slide them closer together.  You can even angle them a little if your walls or skirtboards aren't parallel.   To use the template, you adjust it to fit the stair opening, and then transfer the measurements from the template to the tread stock.

1. 
   UncleDunc | Oct 03, 2002 07:25am | #6

   And if you don't want to make one, there is at least one advertiser in Fine Homebuilding magazine that sells them.

2. 
   frenchafry | Oct 03, 2002 07:54am | #9

   I intend on trying to make just such a jig to cut the stair treads and risers.