Hello all. I am making a stair case with Bubinga treads. As this will not be covered by some sort of carpet, I am concerned about my kids or wife slipping on the stair case. Any ideas about a top coat what has grip by does not obscure the grain?
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I have done a non slip surface using crushed walnut shells. In my case, I taped off a section, brushed it with finish then covered the wet finish with the walnut shells. After the finish dried I brushed and vacuumed the excess walnut shells away, then put another finish coat over the whole works. In order do do this without obscuring the grain, you could use fewer, more strategically placed grains of the walnut shells. It made a VERY grippy surface. It was nearly uncomfortable if you were in bare feet.
I've also read about this product on my boating forums.
http://216.204.68.29/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=25
It is apparantly pretty grippy, but I am certain they assume people will be wearing shoes and not be in socks only.
All of the paint supply stores we deal with have packaged products to accomplish what you desire. Typically it's just "special sand" that you mix with paint. It's very reasonably priced and you could play around with samples until you got just the effect you want. It is VERY grippy. My only concern with it would be the possibility of "road rash" if you have toddlers!
"Ask Sherwin Williams" (or any other distributor that happens to be close). LOL
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Smooth finishes, bare feet, stocking and sock feet, and even some leather soled shoes can be problematic. If there are small children or old folks, be very careful about putting a smooth finish on a stairway.
Howie
I'm in the process of building new stairs in my house. I'm replacing the carpeted stairs with hardwood, either maple or Oak ( I haven't made the final decision, yet). What would you recommend for a finish on the stairs that will be durable, yet not too slippery.
Thanks,
Jeff
Jeff, I built my stair treads with oak. They have a polyurathane finish and have held up for ten years with no problem.
This thread started with the question about slipping on the stair treads and there were several replies which indicated there was a considerable amount of concern. I personally would not make nice oak or any other wood tread and cover them uo with carpet. I have never felt the treads were slippery. I did, however put hand rails on both sides and recommend the same for anyone regardlss of type of surface.
Any ideas about a top coat what has grip by does not obscure the grain?
It would seem to me that an in the wood finish might work ok. I assume that you're talking about an interior staircase and the fact that you're using Bubinga you want the wood to show.
Actually I would think that any finish would only potentially be slippery when it gets wet.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Waterlox is a non slippery surface finish (and originally designed for floors and indoor sports' surfaces.
I have a funny story to tell about a slippery stair case. Well, it wasn't funny at the time, but it is now.
From 1974 - 1976 I was stationed at Fort Riley, KS. We lived in quarters on post. Our apartment was half of a split level duplex. To get from the very top floor down to the kitchen/dining room area you had to traverse to half-flights of stairs. The stairs were hardwood finished with some sort of varnish. Very slick to socked feet.
I had preached to my wife and kids about running up and down the stairs in their socks. I wasn't looking forward to a trip to the emergency room to fix a broken arm or worse yet, a cracked skull.
Well, after all that preaching, who do you think was the very first to go bumpity bump bump down the stairs on his hiney? Yours truly of course. I started down the stairs from the very top in wool socks no less and when my heel hit the first step my foot slipped and my butt was the next thing to hit the step. I didn't miss a one all the way down to the dining room.
I think my wife and 2 daughters (5 & 8 at the time) would have laughed at me if it had broken every bone in my body.
Moral...be careful of slippery stairs.
2nd moral...be careful what you preach...it may come back to bite you.
Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
I can see myself in that scenario . . . thats why I asked!
Man, I hope you are not building stairs with that wood that you posted photos of. Well, whatever,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I didn't follow the links above, but rather than mixing it in with the finish, I like to get all of the finishing done, then mask an area about 2" wide back about one inch from the nosing, and then only as wide as the walking path. Then apply finish, then sprinkle the sand very lightly from a salt shaker, as you work your way down.Don't overdo it. A light open coat works just as good as heavy, but looks much better.
Mr. Newton, to answer your question: No, I am not making stairs out of the log I posted photos of. I am making them out of some stock that all came from the same log (photos attached). Funny story behind this log I am using for the stairs though. It was cut in Gabon and then bush sawn into lumber with a large chain saw setup. Primitive to say the least and required planing in Africa as well as once it arrived here. What started out as 8/4 in know S2S 1 3/8" just to get it into some semblance of standard thickness. Well mottled.
I figured that would be nice. Additionally, one of my pals recommended I make the risers out of figured soft Maple-the the contrast should be quite pretty. I attached a photo of that as well.
I figure it will either look really nice or it will be a complete catastrophe with only myself to praise or blame.
Personally, I would not use the figured maple with that wood. That would be too distracting. I would rather use a painted riser than that. If you choose to use the maple, at least dye it, then stain it to something closer in color. I am sure you have heard the term "gilding the lillie"?If you were around back when FWW first came out with the design books, I think it helps to refer back to them every so often, keeping in mind that, some of the things that had the greatest WOW factor, are now a bit garish, and may be hard to live with over the long haul.I would prefer going for a "quieter elegance" with a wood like that.
I would agree. Combining two heavily-figured woods is like wearing a striped shirt with plaid pants. It's possible to pull it off, but you have to be very, very careful.
-Steve
Thanks for that idea . . . nice and simple. Another gentleman recommend something similier and it will give it a try.
I like Kieth's idea for the non slip, but I might still consider using walnut shells instead of sand for a more "woody" look. You might even be able to stain them for a closer color match.
I have not seen the walnut shells, so I don't know about the woody look. I will just add, that for me, making the least visible but functional strip would be my goal. Clear quartz sand, or whatever is sold for this purpose, sprinkled in a clear varnish or poly medium, then only out near the nose of the tread fits my aesthetic taste. I might add, that there is a little trick to getting a good even sprinkle. Whatever you use for ####shaker, which can be a container with a few holes punched in a plastic lid. It should be held about 3 feet or higher above the fresh poly, and be shaken with a broad side to side motion as the top is slowly tipped over, to provide a nice light shower of particulate across the whole area in a very gradual application. If you try it from too low, you will end up with heavy concentrated areas that will require you to add more to all of them to get an even look. Probably particles in the range of 1/8 ~ 1/4" apart would be as good as a solid cover of grit, but that is just my taste. Your milage may differ.
After thinking it thought, I have decided to go with the sage wisdom of not using the figured Soft Maple out of concern for it overpowering the whole project. Thanks for the sound advice guys.
used to sail on oil tankers for a living. We used walnut shells on stairs and ramps for traction. They are very sharp if you slide bare skin across them for whatever reason. Some of the ships used sand for that reason, and the size of the grains plus the amount of paint (or whatever) finish is applied over it. The AB's would apply tape to the size and shape they wanted. They would then apply a thick layer of paint and sprinkle the sand on. They would then pull the tape off, let it dry and apply a last color coat mixed 50/50 with thinner and paint. It was like walking on sandpaper, and the coaser the sand, the more grip. What they used was very fine, almost powder, unless it was a problem area where there were continued problems with slipping, in which case it was redone with a coarser sand.
I can't imagine having enough bubinga to make stairs out of, let alone actually doing it.
Hal
Hi Hal,, thanks for your comments. When you cut Bubinga for a living; well, let just say I have no shortage of it.
Edited 5/10/2008 6:16 pm ET by Pommele
Just do some samples of all the ideas to see what you prefer.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
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