I have been building a set of stairs for a bit now and finished gluing up one set. The stringers are 2″x10.5″ Cherry (laminated) and the treads are 1.75″x11″x36″. I used M&T (tenons: 1″deepx1.25″x10″+-) joints and have yet to use a screw or nail. Once they are finally mounted there are two stringers that I will not be able to add any screws in the future should the need arise. I have been contemplating adding a few screws to each tread (or miller dowel), but am very reluctant to do so. What do you think? They worked fine without glue during my test fit (not glued in pic), but once they are in its pretty much a done deal. <!—-><!—-> <!—->
PS: drywall is in place now.<!—-><!—->
Thanks <!—-><!—->
Replies
The two questions that come to mind are: 1) the climate where the stairs will be located and, 2) how much traffic they will bear.
Your glue joints will be most effected by extreme changes in temperature and/or humidity. They will also be effected by people trampling on them. Metal fasteners may help to lessen or even avoid the squeaks that seem to sooner or later be inherent with stairs.
It is split level home, but this is not the daily entrance. I live in a dry climate and I dont have any immediate planes to add a humidifier, so the only moisture problems I forsee now will be normal wear and tear. Sounds like it might be good insurance.
Thanks
Hi Brad Try posting to Stan Foster at breaktime he is the quintessential stair builder
Hmm, I think they will think I am nuts. First for building them as I did, and secondly for hesitating to add some screws. Not too many do things this way. I have some of the same obsessive traits that others here do.
Brad
The stringers are 2"x10.5" Cherry (laminated) and the treads are 1.75"x11"x36". I used M&T (tenons: 1"deepx1.25"x10"+-) joints and have yet to use a screw or nail.
Now there IS something for the fine woodworking books!
Nice Cherry around here runs about the price of Gold!
I would say with modern glues.. NO worry about the stairs squeekin'
Edited 1/21/2009 4:03 am by WillGeorge
Thks for the compliment. I am really having a hard time adding screws even though nobody will see them.
Its been quite the project and the stairs were the simpliest part by far. The treads now have tigerwood inlays, but I sure wish the magic finisher would appear and complete this.
Brad
Please do not look at the ugly lino, its gotta go.
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What about the risers? The most widely used building code (IRC) does not allow stairs to have openings between the treads that would allow the passage of a 4" sphere. Of course, different localities have different codes, but that seems to me pretty standard--and a desirable safety feature.
I checked into this and read the Building Code appeals board in BC and the open tread is still permitted in residential applications in this province. I fretted about this quite a bit and contemplated adding a detail to the risers similar to a part of my railing.
Brad
Well, if you're comfortable. Remember that the local building official who inspects the job is pretty much the authority. Localities can't change the code, but if they reject something based on how they read the code, the delay and hassle of trying to appeal the decision can be very traumatic, and not certain of success. IN addition, if you have to get to an appeal in one area, chances are good that no slack would be cut anywhere else.
I am not concerned about the inspectors, as the ones in my area really dont know the code very well at all. This has been a complete reno and I already have an occupacy permit. The stairs/railing that were in place at the time I was granted the occupacy permit would be what I would consider construction grade at best, yet they gave me an occupancy permit eventhough I didnt ask for one. It is important to me, given my profession, that the stairs meet the code.
Brad
Yeah stairs are a pain in the back side to get to look good and meet code around here (Michigan). I would love to put in a stair at my house with one large "stringer" and thick cantilevered stairs with open risers. Then i would use a cable railing system and an aluminum tube for the railing. But I can not have open treads, and even the railing is causing me issues as the inspectors do not like cable railings around here so that would be a fight also (even though you can do it per code).
So I have yet to install my front stair case. Some day i will figure out something that looks good, and still meats code and that I can actually built.
Doug
Stairs have become such a litigious item it makes is tough to come up with a unique design. Some of the pictures I found of some in the UK looked scary even to me and must have been installed post inspection. There was a discussion about a staircase on the woodweb that might interest you. They used a box beam for the cantilever treads and aluminum/glass railings. Very elegant design and still has that open feel. Horizontal cables seem to be a case for much disagreement, but the only problem with vertical ones would be deflection and one can solve that by building the treads strong enough to allow one to tension the cables (like a cable stay bridge). Just my .02.
Brad
Brad, While I don't see any problems with your method, I don't see why you could not shoot a couple of trim screws up from under the ends of each tread into the stringers.
Locating them a couple of inches each side of center would still leave the edges free to move if they need to.
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