Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 16, 2003 12:57am | #1

   Which size Safety Dado, 6" or 8"???  The Freud Safety Dado is an excellent dado set, BTW, but $179 (USA) is very steep for a 6" set.  Do you have a model number??

   The 6" set (SD306) should cost you around $125.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   wendy | Sep 16, 2003 03:27am | #3

   Hi Forest Girl,

   Just checked out the freud woodworking site. They have  the SD 200 series Pro dadoes and the SD 300 Series Safety Dadoes. The SD 20 series Pro dadoes they say are perfect for the weekend woodworker, economically priced without sacraficing quality.  Safety is my cheif concern here so should I opt for the 300 series? (SD 306?) Now as regards to size......... Do I go with the 6 or the 8 inch?????????????  My table saw has a 5/8 arbour and 2 hp.  Unfortunately they did not list prices on this particular site.

   Wanda

   PS  Have you ever used depth collars for your drill bit?  I never new they existed until I checked out the Freud website.  :)  Since I usually use a hand held drill I thought maybe I'd give them a try.

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 16, 2003 07:22am | #4

   Wanda, I'd strongly suggest the 6" Safety Dado (SD306).  An 8" is overkill for the type of work you're doing (e.g., you wouldn't need to cut dados deeper than those cut by a 6" dado blade), more expensive by far, and put more wear and tear on the saw. 

   Here's the SD306 on Amazon (don't pay any attention to the supposed "List Price" -- $125 is a common on-line price for this set).

   I've used stop collars, although nowadays I usually use my drill press.  They can slip, so keep an eye out for that.  I use a silver marker to show where the stop collar was installed on the bit.  If the stop moves away from that mark, it's easy to see.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   charlesm | Sep 16, 2003 08:28pm | #5

   Wanda,

   The "Safety Dado" name is a carry over from when we added the kickback reducing design. All of our current dado offerings feature this design so there isn't a difference in the level of safety. I would recommend the SD300 series if you intend to cut primarily solid wood. If you will also be cutting veneer, laminate and/or melamine I would suggest either the SD200 or SD500 series. At 2hp your saw should be able to handle the 8" (check the saw manufacturer to be sure it will accept this size) but the 6" is a lot easier on the saw and will make it work less. The tradeoff is 1" of depth of cut.

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

1. 
   wendy | Sep 16, 2003 09:44pm | #6

   Hi,

   I'll have to check out the SD 300 series. Think I'll stick with the 6 inch dado if I decide to go ahead and buy dado blades for the table saw. Is it safer to cut dadoes, grooves and rabbits on a router table rather than on the table saw? Just wondering whether I should invest in a good set of dado blades for the table saw or whether I should invest in a router table since I already have a 1 1/2 hp porter cable (690 series)  router. 

   My friend who builds furniture mostly out of pine seems to think cutting dadoes on a radial arm saw is a lot safer than cutting them on the table saw. Any truth to that? He says he uses his dado blades mostly on the radial arm saw. Especially when cutting dadoes for bookshelves or  dadoes across large 16 inch panels. He doesn't think I should spend a lot of money on buying a set of dado blades for the table saw. According to him you can make 1/4 inch  dadoes for the bottom of drawers quite easily using the ordinary 10 inch blade (1/8 inch kerf) on the table saw. Now how safe is that????  I'm no expert when it comes to the table saw so I'm not sure what it's full potential is.  I know it's one of the best tools for ripping.

   Wanda

1. 
   Sancho | Sep 16, 2003 10:02pm | #7

   It all depends. First and foremost I would build a router table not by one (speaking from expirance since I bought one), It would depend on how much you like to remove the TS blade and install the dado and remove it and reinstall the TS blade then OOOPPSS got to do it again. I have lately been using my router table for dados its not bad after ya get the hang of it. But on sheet stock cabinets ect I would use a dado blade. 

   Darkworksite4: Subterráneo en la república de gente de Calif

2. 
   BG | Sep 16, 2003 10:15pm | #8

   Wanda,

   I agree with Ron, dado blades on the table saw are faster and easier for many applications involving sheet goods....and don't forget cutting tennons.  I have used my router in my hands to cut the dados and, most recently, now on the router table.  Set up is a pain when you do the router in your hands...eg. cutting the tongue for a breadboard end.  For sheet stock, most router tables would be too small to cut dados...eg bookshelves.

   One of the really nice things about dados on the TS with dado blades is how easy it is to enlarge the dado...remember sheet stock is a bit undersized.  You can add a sheet or two of paper to the TS Fense and take a second pass with the dado blades to improve the fit.

3. 
   forestgirl | Sep 17, 2003 12:43am | #9

   Using a dado set is a much faster way to cut dados (as opposed to router), especially if you have quite a few to do.  When using the router, for all but the shallowest dados, you need to make multiple passes -- can get pretty tedious.  Of course with the dado you'd need to do that too, but you can hog off more in one pass than with a router bit (especially with the size router you're using).

   I'm not a big RAS fan, but there's no doubt it's easier to do dados on big panels with one, as you're moving the saw over the panel instead of the other way around.   However, if you don't have a RAS, it's a moot point.

   You can use a saw blade to make dados, preferably a flat-top grind blade, not ATB.  I've heard of people mounting two regular saw blades with a larg washer or two inbetween, thereby making a small dado set.  Or even setting two blades even further apart to help in making tenons.  Lots of creative ways to do things, but I've not tried any of these myse'f.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 17, 2003 12:48am | #10

   I would not use the SD306 Safety Dado on a RAS. It is a positive hook design that very easily "grabs" the wood and can get away from you. While not as agressive as some other positive hook blades, it can climb cut very easily. Not only do the SD20x and the SD50x cut much cleaner dados in solid wood and veneers, they also tend to work better in a RAS. Both have negative hook blades. Whether a regular saw blade or a dado blade, negative hook teeth are safer in RAS and Miter Saws.

   For your use, I would go with the SD206 for $75. It consistantly wins "Best Value" whenever dado blade comparison tests are published.

5. 
   Biscardi | Sep 17, 2003 12:15pm | #11

   With my Craftsman RAS, there is enough flex in the armature that the depth of the dado varies along the cut. Does anyone else have this problem?

   Frank

6. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 17, 2003 07:48pm | #12

   No, I don't have that problem with my early 1970's Craftman. There are adjustments to tighten up the arm and that is generally the first step in the alignment process. Second is to set the tabletop parallel to the arm. While there are a number of other steps in the process, these two are the ones that ensure that the depth of cut is consistent.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 16, 2003 01:09am | #2

   There are three different Freud stacking dado sets.

   The SD20x (Professional) is their least cost set at about $75 for the 6".

   The SD30x (Safety) is a now relatively old set with a positive hook angle that sells for about $125 for the 6".

   Their top of the line SD50x (Super) sells for about $155 for the 6".

   Both the Pro and the Super are negative hook blades which tend to do a better job when cutting across today's thin veneered plywood.

   In my opinion, the key to a good countersink is one that does not chatter when making the cut. Chattering makes a less than perfect bevel. The better countersinks have only a single cutter which sort of slices the wood rather than grinding it out.