Need to square up this 29 in wide 12/4 wenge tabletop. I glued it about three inches longer than I planned for the finished length (54 inches) as I planned to square it afterwards/
Posted under Hand Tools because I can’t get the biotch on the tablesaw or bandaw. In fact, as you’ll see, I couldn’t get the two 15in wide slabs (before jointing) squarely across the tablesaw either. And too thick for my circular saw. This led to my thread “Handsaw Order.” I’d love to crosscut it with a handsaw but it would have to be a nice one, which as everyone here knows, you don’t run down to the borg or woodcraft and pick one of those up. I actually visited both a couple times as if a Wenzloff & Sons or Cherubini would magically appear on the shelf. Anyway, here’s my dilemma. (As I type this, I’m thinking portable belt sander (yuck) since the ends aren’t really that far off.) How would you attack the task?
Posted under Hand Tools because I can’t get the biotch on the tablesaw or bandaw. In fact, as you’ll see, I couldn’t get the two 15in wide slabs (before jointing) squarely across the tablesaw either. And too thick for my circular saw. This led to my thread “Handsaw Order.” I’d love to crosscut it with a handsaw but it would have to be a nice one, which as everyone here knows, you don’t run down to the borg or woodcraft and pick one of those up. I actually visited both a couple times as if a Wenzloff & Sons or Cherubini would magically appear on the shelf. Anyway, here’s my dilemma. (As I type this, I’m thinking portable belt sander (yuck) since the ends aren’t really that far off.) How would you attack the task?
Edited 7/30/2008 9:24 am ET by sykesville
Replies
I have always used a Straight edge and a skill saw with sharp blade. That wenge would do a number on a hand saw.
Tom
Edited 7/30/2008 9:34 am ET by gofigure57
Tom,
Good idea. I normally do that as well. With the thickness here, I'd have to flip it and cut from both sides. Slightly off on one side (though not that hard to avoid) would be crappy, and I'd be back to the idea of the portable beltsander. I may end up going that route afterall.
When you flip it over reset the saw to cut only the remainder from the top cut. Take your time , shoule be no problem.
Tom
If the top is already flat and the sides parallel I'd go to rockler or woodcraft and get a grip-tite (or any brand) clamp strait edge align with a speed square clamp down and use the CS to cut it. I have use this set up to cut really wide panels that I don't feel comfortable horsing on the TS. I have a PC sawboss with a Forrest WWII just for this purpose. Works great. If you don't want to spend the money for a forrest blade just use the best you can and finish out any marks with a plane. Thats M2CW
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I don't know why a straight edge and a good circular saw blade would not go almost all the way through fairly smooth. The remainder could be cut with a normal handsaw in the circular saw kerf and then sanded to smooth it up. A sharp blade and a slow cut should cut it fine.
That is a lot of wenge!
Bruce
If I was cutting that down, I would get some plywood and a couple of runners for the t-slots and build a sled for the table saw. Using a sled with a stop would minimize the difference between cuts if you must flip the piece over. If you must flip it over you could always plane the end to get it to match. Lacking a plane, you could use the sander then. If you do decide to sand off thre inches of wood, please let us know how that goes. :-)
Edited 7/30/2008 10:02 am ET by Scott_y
Oh, no, I wasn't going to sand 3 inches... I would just change the plan and leave it the length I got it square to.
I think even with a shop-built sled, I couldn't do it. The weight overhanging the front side of the tablesaw would be too much to handle safely. Good idea, though. thanks
Do you have a router and a straight bit? If so, make a jig where you have straight edges running on both sides of the table top, square to the edge (4 pieces of wood - no big deal). Then route from both sides - it may take several passes, but you'll get there.
I would cut it with a circular saw (flipping it) leaving about 1/16 to 1/8 extra.
Then I would set up a straight edge and work the extra off using a router with a straight bit, set the base against the fence. take about 3/8 depth or less off at a time. go a little past halfway down, more if you can.
Change bits to a flush trim bit and take off the rest.
Then use a plane or a scraper to remove the router marks.
That's my advice and worth every cent you paid for it!
All outstanding replies and advice and much appreciated. More proof that there are many ways to skin a knuckle. I have a bit of time to decide as I'm "babysitting" my 18 yr old daughter following major surgery. Funny thing, talking to the surgeon describe the procedure afterward. "(bone)saw, chisel, tap tap, screws..." I'm thinking of making him something symbolic. He'd probably make a great woodworker.
I second Talma's approach. This ensures very little cleanup if your router bit is sharp. You could even cut on side with the circular saw, flip it cut the other side a 1/16" longer than the kerf on the opposite side then use a router with a flush trim bit to ensure that the ends are even. Like you said many ways to skin knuckles!What would you make a surgeon? A custom curly maple handle for his bone saw? Hey! What about a little tool box to carry his tools in? Whatever you make him let us see the photos!Adam King Studio
Fine Furniture and Antique Restoration
Sy, this is what I would do, assuming I am in your position and the main problem for you is the question of cutting to length and squaring the ends:
Run down to Malwart or whatever that store is and get one cross cut hand saw type nasty $ cheap -but -must- have -those- blue -looking- hardened teeth.
Mark to length on both ends top and bottom and -very important- use a marking knife or similar tool to incise those lines. This is because Wenge is brittle/splintery and you want to stop that.
Get on your saw bench and cut the ends off with that saw- not too much effort for sure. Dispose of all evidence of such a saw ever having been used by you in your shop. Make a note to order a decent saw from M. Wenzloff right away.
Then you merely fair the ends with your #51/2
jack plane or #7 well lubed with white wax. You can clamp it to your bench so it is vertical , and use something suitable to stand on , or clamp it horizontally, in which case your wrists will get a slight work out. Assuming a Stanley iron is used , start with a freshly honed iron , set back iron about 1/2mm off and take fine cuts. You should barely survive the experience, and live to appreciate the relative ease of planing those other nice timbers like Cherry etc
Philip Marcou
Edited 7/31/2008 6:19 am by philip
Here's your chance to justify a 16" Makita!
16"? Scary!
If you are looking for ideas I'm gonna think outside the box here. Although renting a 16" Makita is enticing. Here's the idea. Build a jig of some sort, like a slide and move your BS across the table top, rather than trying to move the tabletop across the BS. You could use polished teflon gliders and slowly push or pull the BS from one side of the tabletop to the other. Rig up a slow mo electric motor and pull it. Put a guide on the tabletop and if your jig is slick enough, the BS will stay square. Cleanup with a block plane, sanding or router, whatever. Hey I know this sounds crazy but just think of the bragging rights. You'd would be a hero! Send Pictures.
David
My 9-1/4 Makita CS would walk right through that.. Whats the problem????
Buy an 8-14 CS blade..Take the guard off a 7-1/4 CS so the bigger blade will fit in the housing and make your cut.. Then put the guard back on your saw before you cut off something you might need later
I'd use a Festool TS75 saw. It'll go over 2" depth from the guiderail. If you don't have one, surely you have a bud who'd let you borrow for the 5 minutes it'd take?
If not, how about a good straightedge and a long solid carbide spiral in the router.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
This is the same as cutting a 3" thick table top for a work bench. To do this you need to build a jig that will surround the end of the table to guide a router. To build the jig you will need two pieces of 32"x6" 1/2" MDF, hardwood about 1" thick about the same width as the tabletop is thick and about 10-12" long. Place the hardwood against the side of the table with a piece of cardboard from a back of a tablet of paper between the hardwood and the table. Do this on both sides and clamp it to the sides of the table. Then screw the MDF to both the top and bottom of the pieces of hard wood. Make sure that all of pieces of the jig that face the end of the table to be cut are flush (very important).
To cut the table, saw the table about a 1/8" to a 1/4" proud of the line you want to cut with a saw of your choice. Use a 1/2" x 2" straight bit to cut the end of the table using the jig. Set the base of the router against the jig to set the distance. Clamp the jig with a single clamp across the table to hold the table between the two hardwood pieces (that extend from the MDF toward the middle of table). Check the jig for square against the side of the table. Cut the top of the table turn it over and the cut the other side without moving the jig(very important). Clean it up with a plane.
Good luck.
I fear you are suggesting to Syke that he must go to all that trouble of setting up a router and fencing as though he has multiple tops to dimension to size. It is neither necessary nor practical in his case since he says he needs to do it by hand tools.
He is facing a degree of difficulty in working that wood, relative to the equipment he has . He has only two ends to sort out-one of which may be doable by planing alone so then he need only cut the other end to length "with a saw of choice"- a handsaw in this case and I suggested a specific type to make it easier(and cheap) to do, considering that wood.
I beleive anyone interested in woodworking should be able to saw within 1/8" of a line, and then clean it up with a hand plane, just as I believe it to be necessary for woodworkers to master basic hand tools in advance of power tools.Philip Marcou
philip,
How 'bout this to hold the top?
View Image
And then do this?
View Image
He may have to get a helper and raise the sawhorses just a tad though.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hmm, maybe if I sharpened this old disston?
As a period sawyer you undoubtedly (I looked at your photos - very cool)have the ability to saw to an 1/8' line in a 3" board that is two and a half feet across). However, IMHO this would be a tall order for me on the bottom of the cut - given the thickness, length and oil content of the wood. As you point out his preference is to cut this table top with a hand saw, but I have found this technique to be quick and very accurate. The jig only takes about a half hour to make - FYI. I also think it would take quite a bit of time to remove an 1/8" of material on the end of the table. I suspect it would be close to the same amount of time with either approach. However, I believe using the router and jig has less inherent risk of a miss cut on such an expensive piece. Personally, I prefer hand tools, but sometimes my practical nature wins out over my purist desires.<!----><!----><!---->
Sometimes the solution is right in front of you. I took all suggestions into consideration and even tried most. Thanks all for the suggestions.
After attempting the excellent solutions offered by readers, I stood in the middle of my (small) shop frustrated, looking at the floor. I saw the wheels on my router table come into focus. I raised my gaze, mentally measuring the height of the router table, then swang around and noticed it was close to the height of the bandsaw. Measured, and yes, it was 1/4 higher. Cleared off the router table, rolled it to the bandsaw. Hmm, since I have swivel wheels on one end I have to keep it going straight. Guess what, the table saw is lower than the router table by an inch or so. The PM 2000 has integrated casters - rolled the tablesaw to pinch the router table flush to the bandsaw, and dropped it to the floor. Everything is naturally square, and a couple double checks confirmed that.
Less than an hour after noticing the wheels on my router table, both ends of the 3inch thick wenge table are square everywhich way. The last picture is the second end trimmed up.
Next step, sand the ends with sanding block graduating from 100 to 320 grit, hit the rest with 220 again, then 320, and finish it.
The photo shoot -
Edited 8/3/2008 1:55 pm ET by sykesville
Edited 8/3/2008 2:05 pm ET by sykesville
Edited 8/4/2008 1:20 pm ET by sykesville
Never worked Wenge but I got ALOT of Panga Panga,, Sort of the same I think?
I usually go with the flow but... On this one.. I would not change it.. If you like the project as you have made it... I ask .. It is three inches longer than what you wanted.. I will not charge for the extra wood. Save you a least a few hundred dollars...Lets see if it will fit where you wanted it? I'll be there in a hour or two..
If they say no.. I'd say.. They wanted to rip you off in the first place! If they say in a day or two.. Maybe the same.. They will find a place that it will not fit!
Sort of like the school bully that beat you up ever morning.. Sometimes you go to school with a different attituded and a few friends to back you up!
And then again you fell you goofed.. A router with many light passes will cure it all!
OK.. so you have to be sure you take off equal wood on EACH END!
NO SAW..
Unless you leave enought wood to get the table top edge profile that matches the sides in the end..
OK.. so sometimes we make little mistakes.. Sort of joking.. but not really not..
Why not call the customer and ASK them what they can live with?" Same price for more wood!
Edited 8/2/2008 1:41 pm by WillGeorge
Edited 8/2/2008 1:49 pm by WillGeorge
Have you considered breadboard ends, preferably hiding one inch square steel square tube let in? I just feel if that wenge decides to move the only way out will be to take the top to a wide belt pro.
I have tried eating paid for meals off tables which threatened to tip the food into the lap of someone sitting opposite. The excuse is usually that the table has character!
I vote for the router. Take your time to properly alighn the straightedge and true up the edge with multiple passes with the router. A spiral bit may be long enough to do the entire cut from one side. If you can't do this, go as deep as you can, flip the table over, and use a flush trim bit from the other side.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
So whats this big old slab 'o wood for anyway?? Just curious. Jimmy.
Library table (lack of any other words - call it a desk) for my daughter. A friend asked why I would use such a slab o' wood. My reply - it could be planed down a hundred times and still be a desk. I'll have to imprint my name and date on the bottom. If it doesn't end up at the dump or burned for heat in, say, year 2180, it'll be around a long time.
That is one heck of a lot of wenge. And one excellent solution to a difficult trimming problem."planed down a hundred times and still be a desk." ya think?!Rich
Edited 8/4/2008 5:21 am ET by Rich14
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled