I am considering spraying stain on a cherry project. What are the proceedures, recommended types of stains, pitfalls, advantages, disadvantages, etc?
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Replies
In a production context it allows a very rapid deposit of the material. It can be applied relatively evenly by spraying. But stain on bare wood still needed to have excess wiped off and the evenness of the stain is not dependent to any great degree of how evenly it is initially applied as long as all parts get more than some minimum amount. It's the wiping off process that makes the real differences in how stain looks in the end.
It would have to be one heck of a large project to get me to clean a spray gun just to apply stain. I suppose with a 3-m or similar instant clean system in would be fine.
However, using a toned top coat is a very different story. In my opinion, except for the very lightest of tinting, it only works as a sprayed application because of the necessity of gettng a very even or controlled application.
Try a gel stain or a water based stain of your color preference because of the blotching that can occur with cherry. Test your stain on scraps sanded to the exact grit as your piece of furniture. I agree with Steve, I would not spray, unless you are trying to achieve a very radical color change. I just sprayed Mohawk ultra penetrating stain (NGR) dark red mahogany and walnut mix on a tiger maple dresser to achieve a match on a another piece of furniture. I sprayed it because I did not have to wipe it to achieve the right color, but I would not recommend it unles you are very experienced with the gun and the stain you are using. I have had good luck with Mohawk's wiping stains on cherry, but you will probably have to order them. You could try http://www.woodfinisherssource.com/cart/tek9.asp?pg=products&grp=65.
Use a stain specifically made for spraying and it's a piece of cake. I'm on the millwork for a third coffee bar staining birch to a deep, dark red. The colour changes but there is still a good deal of translucence to the finish and grain is visible.
The stain drys very fast and wiping removes the excess dried stain so doesn't result in streaks unless very carelessly done. Colour comes out quite even and a second coat can be sprayed to shade in sapwood areas.
I use an HVLP 1/2 pint touchup gun even on large projects since the stain goes so far and fillups are easy.
Furniture factories spray everything. It is the easiest way for applying NGR stains and you don't have to wipe of any excess because there isn't any if you apply it right. It dries almost instantly, but if you are not experienced with the product or the gun you can really have a mess. If you are willing to practice with scrap and stain and gun pressures and different tips you can get a wonderful tone. Cherry can be unforgiving without practicing a lot on scrap. I was just in Shipshewanna, IN (Amish) and they are excellent finishers. In one shop a whole bedroom set on display was beautifully built (cherry), the piece was butchered by the wrong stain application. It looked like a leopard. The shop owner said they tried a new stain, wrong application method. He said he thought they rubbed on an alcohol stain. Practice.
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