Replies

1. 
   BArnold | Jul 24, 2004 12:10am | #1

   I purchased a small airbrush kit at the local Harbor Freight outlet for this application.  Cost about $5 on sale.  Bottle holds enough for small projects.  Connects to your air compressor.  Check their offerings at: http://order.harborfreight.com/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp

   I've also heard good things about the Critter, but haven't tried one.  http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00006FRPJ/qid=1090616927/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1_etk-tools/103-4477636-9891867?v=glance&s=hi&n=228013

   Bill Arnold

   Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.

2. 
   UncleDunc | Jul 24, 2004 12:27am | #2

   >> ... clear lacquer like Deft thinned w/ mineral spirits ...

   I think you want to thin lacquer with lacquer thinner, not mineral spirits.

3. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 24, 2004 05:44am | #3

   I bought one of those aerosol gizmos on the recommendation of the most knowledgeable guy in the paint store I frequent. Seemed ideal for those small projects where you don't want to go to the trouble of firing up the HVLP.

   However, I can't tell you how it works, since it has been sitting on a shelf in my finishing room for the past year. So if you do end up using it, I hope you will report back here.

   If you are going to use lacquer on a gun stock, I would imagine you will rub it out. So I doubt if it matters much how you build the lacquer on the surface. It is easy enough to brush small uncomplicated pieces like that. If on the other hand, the stock has some carving, then you probably do want to spray it.

   What about using lacquer in a plain old aerosol can? A single can should do the job.

1. 
   milanuk | Jul 24, 2004 06:13am | #4

   To tell the truth, after my less-than-favorable experience w/ the Minwax Spar Poly in a spray can... I'm not exactly in a hurry to try the spray can of much of anything else. Took a lot more than I thought it would (at least two entire cans for 4 coats, as the dang stuff just soaked in and wouldn't build at all... until I over-coated and got a couple runs -- grrrrr...). The level I was hoping for this time around w/ the lacquer was something on the order of 4-6 coats minimum, to get a good deep shine to bring out the contrasting colors of the laminate (electric blue an black).

   I keep reading about how lacquer doesn't really need sanded btwn coats, as the thinner in the new coat causes it to just blend in w/ the old coat smoothly, and as more coats accumulate, there should be less and less need for any sanding or such. But then I see some people mention 'rubbing out' the finish. Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly does that refer to?

   Thanks,

   Monte

1. 
   CharlieP | Jul 24, 2004 07:17am | #5

   You do not need to sand between coats of lacquer, but you can sand if something wasn't perfect - such as the fly that landed just before it dried or the (forgive the thought) drool.  Unlike varnish and other film coatings, the next layer will "melt" in, so there is no edge to the layers you might sand through.

   After you have sufficient depth, the surface may not be perfect, but if you let it harden (more than just dry), you can then rub it to make it perfectly smooth and exactly the gloss you want.  I typically use 320 or 400 sandpaper if there are any sins, then 0000 steel wool, then a cotton athletic sock (someone said it was comparable to 2500 grit).  Other people have different rituals, but the basic idea is rub it to a perfect surface with a satin finish (00 or 0000 steel wool or equivalent), then go to progressively finer abrasives, until you have a semi gloss or gloss or mirror finish - whatever you want. 

   ________________________Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood

4. 
   MBL | Jul 24, 2004 08:09pm | #6

   Friend,

   Deft lacquer is available at H.D. or Lowes is a convenient spray-can. It should do what you want.

   -mbl-

5. 
   SEBDESN | Jul 24, 2004 11:54pm | #7

   You can buy Deft in a spray can...Look at hd or blowes