Does anyone have know-ledge of a solvent for 3 M spray adhesive. I attempted to use it on the inside of some wooden vise jaws to attach 1/4″ rubber pads for cushion. It did not adhere the rubber as I would have liked, so I pulled it off. Now I have adhesive tacked on the wood inner faces.
Have tried mineral spirits and acetone and they will soften the adhesive, but it won’t wipe off. Used and old card scraper and it will take a little but has more of a tendency to just shift the adhesive to another location. I’m not going to run these through a jointer as I don’t want to gum my jointer blades. I took an old Stanley standard block plane and got some off, but it gums the opening in the plane and is very slow and tedious to clean the mouth.
Has anyone ever removed spray adhesive after it was applied and dry? Probably not, but if you know of a solvent please reply. I thought of calling 3 M, but have a feeling that they will recommend their solvent which is citrus based or acetone based. Been there.. done that.
Thanks…
SARGE.. g-47
Edited 7/13/2006 12:33 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Replies
Try starting fluid (ether). I have never found an adhesive it won't take off or a finish it would harm. It is a tad flammable so common sense is in order.
Thanks for the speedy reply dg... Ether never crossed my mind and certainly worth a try. I usually don't have the problem as I will use the correct adhesive for a product. I used this rubber type material several years ago on a 100' plus show-room counter-top at our Muscle Car Show-room with recommended water base adhesive from the vendor. The adhesive was quite expensive and made for adhering to a top and not on a vertical surface. There are 100 pound plus trannies, cross-members, etc. thrown on it daily and it has not budged.
What adhesive I had left over was expired and I didn't think it would hold well in those jaw faces taking abuse from clamping. So, ever dependable spray adhesive. Both the faces and the back of the material were prepped and roughed. But it never completely dried and slipped when you clamped something. Don't know if the ingredients of the Spray and rubber had a chemical re-action or not, but when I pulled the rubber off to re-group there is a major mess with the adhesive.
Ether gets a debut tomorrow and I will refrain from roasting marsh-mellows on an open camp-fire as I usually do while working in the shop. Actually, my method of choice is to take it out front of the shop over concrete on portable tables and do it outside. No vapor smell drifting upstairs to annoy anyone. I can get away with going outside on nasty projects here in Atlanta about 9 months of the year.
Thanks again and I'll give the ether a shot at what has turned out to be a "mans job"..... of course we won't mention a man got me in this predicament to begin with. "Who was that masked man anyway"? I have a feeling my wife knows and has made a mental note for future reference. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
I wear a latex glove and soak a rag with the ether and have at it. I learned about ether from a nurse, back in the old days they used to use it to remove adhesive bandages without reducing the patient to tears and leaving them hairless.
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
It's interesting to see that ether has so many uses. When I started administering anesthesia in 1959 ether was the standard agent. Extreme precautions were used to prevent explosion. Consider that it was given in combination with oxygen, and if ignited could cause burns of the lining of the airway, often fatal. Fortunately there are non-flamable agents used now.
Tom
I can say it would not be my preferred method of choice. If you've ever seen someone accidently turn an old Zippo lighter up to high and not realize it, that is reason enough for me. I saw flames shoot about a foot from one in VN that a young gentleman was using. Missed his cigarette but got both eye-brows with a center hit. Took months for him to grow them back.. and lucky he didn't damage the eyes.
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
What a load of crap. If you can't use ether safely you have no business using sharp tools. I was under the obviously mistaken impression I was talking to intelligent people. Every Zippo I have dealt with used naptha for fuel, particularly the Nam era ones and the only way to turn them higher was to pull the wick up. I would suggest you both bubble wrap all objects around you and vote for your favorite nanny government. What a couple of #### hats.
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
Have a good evening, dg..
SARGE.. g-47
I was hoping for a more intelligent response, had a vain hope I was wrong. Espescially from you Sarge.
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
With you reply dg, you were lucky to get one at all. The discussion was merely about the variable uses and the potential dangers of using a volatile fluid that he previously used for much good. It had nothing to do with the fact that it shouldn't be used or who can or cannot use it safely.
As far as the Zippo, I have no idea what fluid came in the old style can of Ronco lighter fluid. I just stated what I saw with whatever chemical was in it and the element of danger involved with using any flammable without caution. I have no idea why the flame jumped a foot. Wick pulled out, turned up or possible booby-trapped for all I know about Zippo's. But it did and I stated the results.
Not sure what issues you wanted to discuss, but the tone and comments you opened with left no room for open discussion as far as I'm concerned. I don't do the cafe anymore!
Have a good evening...
SARGE.. g-47
You're usually quite civil - having a bad day?
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Was a bit harsh wasn't it ? Rubs me the wrong way when people who think nothing of filling their car or mower with high explosive and many times have a five gallon can in the garage freak out over a little ether on a rag. And the bit with the "adjustable" zippo set off my probably over sensitive BS detector. Safe practices are well and good but eliminating or mandating useful chemicals or tools because someone could possibly hurt themselves is a disservice to our specie. Nature has a way of elimminating fools from the gene pool and we should not interfere with it. I have now temporarily returned to my usually civil self :).
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
WD 40 AND A SOFT RAG, MAGIC
And the next piece of paper will magically fly off.
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
"A tad flammable"? Are ya nuts? Lacquer thinner works, too.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Lacquer thinner. Cheap is fine. Slainte.
Richard Jones Furniture
I have tried naptha and acetone as the odor dis-apates quicker. Have not applied mineral spirits or lacquer thinner as of yet. I was surprised the acetone and naptha didn't work. This material is 1/4" Johnsonite flooring and stair tread which is some type of rubber? I suspect it caused a chemical re-action that released something in the rubber that is resisting the above chemicals. Instead of scraping off, it spreads like peanut butter on a sandwich as dg mentioned.
It would be easy enough to just throw some 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 26" maple in the clamps and glue up some new faces. I could use an old router bit and remove (rabbet) 1/4" in the area where the pad was and then plug it with a new piece of wood as it's just vise faces.
But.. being the stubborn SOB I am, I hate to get whupped by anybody and that includes inert objects. So... add lacquer thinner to the list with ether and Goo-Gone. And if that doesn't work, I am quite familiar with C-4 plastic explosives and napalm to put it mildly. :>)
Just have to keep the matter quiet, as you never know when those crafty goverment en-viromentalist and Homeland Security Boys might make a grand entrance in one of those SWAT wagons. Orange Alert my arse... that adhesive is coming off! ha.. ha....
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
Edited 7/13/2006 10:24 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge,
<<And if that doesn't work, I am quite familiar with C-4 plastic explosives and napalm to put it mildly. :>)>>
ROFLMAO: There are few problems that a quarter pound of C-4 won't solve; as for that other stuff....it's environmentally unfriendly....sticks to kids and small animals....
Cheers!Mit freundlichen holzbearbeitungischen Grüßen!
James
And a small pinch of C-4 broken off can produce a blue flame that will heat a canteen cup of water in just a minute or so. Goes well poured over a LRRP ration. Mix in a coupe of malaria tabs and a dash of Tabaco sauce and you got a spiicy gourmet dinner for one without further ado.
Come to think of it, a poultice made from the above meal might break that adhesive down to plea bargain. ha.. ha...
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
OK, if the solvents are affecting the rubber, let it dry till it's either not tacky or just barely tacky. Take a strip of duct tape and press it onto the glue and pull it off quickly. If the surface hasn't been compromised, the glue may come off with the tape. FYI- any time you have glue that doesn't want to come off a smooth, non-porous surface, strong tape is one of the best methods for removal. I usually use duct tape or tarp tape. 3M also makes 'glue remover' and that won't dissolve most plastics."I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 7/14/2006 9:52 am by highfigh
Morning highfish...
I think the main problem was the original acetone and naphtha I used have very fast dry times as Japan dryer does. They would soften the hard crust of the adhesive, but not totally dissolve it as did the longer penetration time of the other solvents. When I would attempt to wipe or scrape at that point, it just spread the softened glue to another area but would remove only a slight amount on a rag or gum up the scraper edge to render it in-effective.
I was just covering the wooden jaw face down to the through bolts and that is quite a bit of area (6 1/2" x 26"). I have never tried duct tape as you mentioned but have used it on about everything else under the sun. My wife buys a case and puts it in my Xmas stocking each year, adhering to my philosophy of "if you can't fix it with duct tape, you probably can't fix it"! I have lots of interesting duct tape stories and my ruck-sack in VN always had two rolls as standard equipment. ha.. ha...
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
Edited 7/14/2006 10:13 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
How many ducks must die for our tape needs?Did you ever see "The Red Green Show" where he had a Ford Granada and converted the doors to gull-wing by using duct tape for the hinges?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
A gull wing huh? ha.. ha...
I didn't see it as I watch very little TV. I did see the Toyota Land Cruiser that got the front fender knocked off down in the Baja desert that got patched back on with duct tape. I understand the owner still hasn't replaced the the damaged fender to this day. Just keeps pulling off the old duct tape and putting new back on. The red duct tape gives the faded green paint scheme some class.
Ya know... I really need to replace that fender, but in the mean-time I need to go check my duct tape supply level. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Have a good day highfish...
SARGE.. g-47
Red isn't duct tape, it's 150 MPH tape!
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Well.. if you see a faded Toyota Land Cruiser with a red RH fender traveling down-hill around 150 MPH, wave quickly as the driver obviously doesn't have brakes. :>)
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
What about a J-DAM booster?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
A trip to BRAKO sounds more in order...
Have a good evening...
SARGE.. g-47
For what it's worth... CA accelerator works great to remove old blue tape and not tear up the wood, and it doesn't leave much of a residue; any left behind is easily taken care of with a scraper.
Isn't CA accelerator trichloroethane? Bad stuff! I have also heard that water speeds it up.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Sarge,
I just solved this problem on Monday...Goo-Gone by Majic. Let it soak in a bit and wipe off with a plastic pad thingy. It appears to contain petroleum distillates so it may be similar to something you already have in the cupboard.
Edited 7/13/2006 6:17 am ET by BG
I suspect MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) will solve your problem. Generally it is available in hardware stores as a "Sunshine" paint product with the other solvents.
Use Nitrile gloves not latex or vinyl. VENTILATE well!!
'Frostie
I picked up a can of lighter fluid (ether) this morning on the way to work on dg's suggestion. Had the lacquer thinner on hand suggested by Richard (Sgain). Gave a quick call back to the restoration shop at work and the guys had Goo-Gone BG recommended which they use to remove headliner glue and adhesive weather-strips. I did not have access to the metrol ethyl ketone, but all agreed this is more powerful than what I needed and hence the nitrale gloves Frosty mentioned.
Spoke to several auto upholstery shops which do head-liners (spray adhesive on latter head-liner boards and the faithful H Glue on the old cloth style head-liners. All echoed the same responses and solubles I got from you guys.
After I got home, I went down and used each on a different area. Gave the adhesive a very heavy coat of each solvent and let it sit for 5 minutes. Wiped it with another very heavy coat and let it sit for about another 2 minutes. At that point I lightly scrubbed the faces with a medium 3M abrasive pad. It broke the hold and it came loose in cakes onto the pad.
Final wipe-down with old shop rags and another wipe down with lacquer thinner then a clean shop towel. Clean and slick as a babies behind. Actually a piece of cake after all the effort already exerted. I highly suspect the naphtha and acetone I used previously are such fast dryers that they evaporated before they got full penetration and broke the adhesive's bond.
So..... thanks to all of you guys for the suggestions as each worked. Hopefully someone is reading this that might benefit in the future without the errors I committed causing un-necessary work. Again.. cheap and simple is often better if you know how to apply cheap and simple in the proper manner. :>)
Regards to everyone that contributed their knowledge of the subject...
SARGE.. g-47
Now that's a lesson in how to put people's advice to the test. Thanks, Sarge, I'm sure a number of people will find this a useful thread in the future.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
Goof-Off will remove it in ten seconds or less.
I've seen that laying around our automotive restoration shop at work also, but didn't inquire about it Boss. They may use it to remove gasket adhesive? There seems to be about everything back there that you might find in a chemical war-fare storage depot.
When they gave me the automotive starter fluid (diethyl ether.. hexane.. heptane), they gave me a stern warning to use with extreme caution and be up-wind when I sprayed it. All three ingredients are highly flammable. I took it out-side and put a 36" fan behind me at table level and used it on a small area to check it out.
It worked fine, but as I stated.. not my method of choice as the others mentioned did the same with less volatility. As Sgian stated, keep it simple and keep it cheap. Add Goof-off to the list.
Have a good day...
SARGE.. g-47
Edited 7/20/2006 11:37 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Goof Off comes in a small can and I promise a small amount goes a long, long way.
Elmer's spray adhesive is no match. I use Elmer's and Goof Off decimates it.
I drifted back to the res-to shop today and ask a few questions. Is it Goof-off your speaking of or Goop-Off? They had several products made by Goop-Off, including citrus based hand-cleaner which works well with grease. Plenty of grease around an engine shop.
When I was passing our MIS department, they had some Goop-off spray that is used to clean computers. They told me it works great on rubber rollers (planer rollers), etc.? I think that one was designed to take off of those annoying price sticker adhesives?
But.. the name Goof-Off has more appeal to most of us guys.. ha.. ha...
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
Goof Off by Lilly Industries.
Comes in a small yellow can (4.5 fl. oz.) You won't need much.
The blood-hounds are on the trail... :>)
Regards...
SARGE.. g-47
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