Replies

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 30, 2010 10:50am | #1

   There are a lot of ways to shape a handle -

   The flat spoke shave is easier to use + sharpen -

   Just get the one shave and see how it works for you -

   They also make a convex -

   SA

2. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 30, 2010 11:49am | #2

   If you get younger spokes, they won't need to shave for a while. ;-)

   There's quite a variety of spokeshaves around, from old wooden and cast-iron models to the nifty new LN/Boggs and Veritas versions. Except for the concave models, they are essentially just simplified block planes with handles on the sides. Or, as TLN would say, "Just a jig to hold a chisel". ;-)

   The flat-bottom model, I agree, is the place to start, since it gives you a registration surface for and aft of the blade. The curved bottom is a little more "artful" - assuming your wrists are strong enough to be able to sweep through the cut.

1. 
   jonnieboy | Jan 30, 2010 01:27pm | #3

   I'm headed out to
   I'm headed out to Woodcrafters in downtown Portland. Someone, cancel my credit card before I get there!

   "Only a bullet gonna stop a buck in rut."

   --jonnieboy

1. 
   derekcohen | Jan 30, 2010 08:41pm | #4

   Hi jonnie

   I have the Boggs and it is excellent, but for you I would instead recommend the LV. The reason is that the Boggs is essentially a finishing spokeshave (tight mouth), while the LV uses shims to open and close the mouth. Both are top rated spokeshaves.

   An alternative is to additionally get a vintage Stanley #51 (the adjuster-less model) or the #151 (with adjuster) ... (I prefer spokeshaves without adjusters for balance) ... These have wider mouths and make a good "jack" (removing waste fast, before moving onto a finishing shave). I use a #51 for this.

   Get a flat bottomed shave. Do not get a round bottomed shave at this stage - they are difficult to use ... and you really do not need one as a flat shave will do all but tight curves. I'd rather add a convex shave to the list (LV have a matching version) as these are handy on round handles.

   Consider:

   Boggs or LV (not the LA type)for finishing.

   LV (above) or #51/151 for rough work

   LV LA for end grain

   Also think vintage!! The Stanley #53 and #54 are two of the best around - they have adjustable mouths and so do it all. The only downside is that you cannot get a thicker blade into them. They differ on handle shape (the #53 is higher than the #54, which is straight). I have the #53 and think it is the best thing since sliced bread.

   Others: The HNT Gordon range are superb - easily the best around on interlocked grain (they have high cutting angles).

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 31, 2010 10:45am | #5

   Derek..

   Something for you to do for in here with all your lovely pictures... Sharpening spokeshaves!

   I have several 'spokes' I use all the time. Never figured out how to properly sharpen those 'curved' ones! For my curved spokes I usually just 'dress/hone' with different grade 'grits' on a linen buffing wheel. Seems to work for me, but what happens if I have to grind one? I am lucky in that I have a bunch of cylinder/tapered cone shaped stones from my metal working days that I can use.

   ALSO, I have never figured out how to sharpen a 'V' carving tool that could ever, cut again.. After I worked on it!

2. 
   jonnieboy | Feb 01, 2010 10:11pm | #6

   This a great guide, Derek. Thanks for taking the time.

   I'll let you know what I end up with.

   --jonnieboy