I’m making a second footstool – – the first 11″ x 14″ with rattan top, mortise and tenon joints all round. For my second one I want the top with rattan ( as my first one ) but rather than rectangular corners with mortise and tenon joints, I want 45 degree corners with a spline joint.
The question – – after I cut the 45’s what’s the best way to cut the spline? I have a dado head if that’s the answer, but do I make a jig and attach it to a sled? or would a wing cutter on my table mounted router be the way to go.
Edited 3/23/2008 9:16 pm ET by willy
Replies
willy ,
When I cut the 45° on the TS , I leave the setting and adjust the blade ht and fence to the desired setting then run the slot for the spline. Typically the pointed edge goes down against the saw table top .
hope this helps dusty
Ty for your comment - - we're getting there. I cut the 45's on a ts sled made specifically for cutting 45's--- if one cut is off a degree or two, the adjoining piece is cut on the opposite side of the blade thus making the join a perfect 90 degrees-- ie. the second cut compensates for any variation in the first cut.
Now comes the spline cut. If every cut is made with the pointed edge down against the table saw top, then I'm alternating the face, first top and them bottom and unless the ts fence is perfectly set, the spline cut will not be centered on adjoining 45's. How do I overcome that potential problem?
Sorry willy , maybe I did not understand the original question .
Do you want the spline to run the length of the joint or across the corner of a frame ?
It sounds like a frame with a diagonal spline , if so it is very simple . I make and glue the frame then cut the diagonal spline with a simple shop made jig .
Let me know which is the case and maybe I can send you a look at a jig that will do what you want .
A picture is worth a thousand words so if you have any send them
dusty
I want the spline to run the length of the joint. Once the frame is glued together ( and before I put on the rattan) I will round the corners,
You can cut these at least two ways on the TS:
1) cut the miters, and then set up the dado blade for the thickness of the spline. Run the miters over the dado. A tenoning jig helps, but may not absolutely necessary, depending on the size of your parts. Assemble the corners with the spline, grain running across the joint. This method makes a joint where the spline is in line with the miter.
2) Glue the miters without a spline. Make a jig to hold the frame on edge, corner down. Run the assembled corners over the dado. Insert spline in the resulting slot, grain oriented across the joint. This method makes a joint where the spline is diagonal to the corner.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
The adjoining pieces are 12 and 14 inches in length. I do not have a tenoning jig but could make one. I like your second suggestion and assume a jig would be best set up on a saw sled. I believe the splines could be cut before gluing, keeping a common face which would assure a spline perfectly centered on each piece and running the full length of the miter. Alternatively, the jig (a 90 degree cradle) a cut could be made and then the spline inserted.
Edited 3/24/2008 12:47 pm ET by willy
"Alternatively, the jig -- a 45 degree cradle-- could make the cut the spline and then inserted."
Exactly. (I think -- you post is a bit muddled.) You cut, say, a 1/4" slot across the assembled joint with the corner held at 45°, point down. You then insert a spline of 1/4" material in the slot. Trim off the excess. Done.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
You right - - that was very muddled - - the cradle would be 90 degrees. I'll go back and edit the post.
I do prefer the spline running the full length of the joint, thus doing the cut before gluing.
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