Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Oct 19, 2004 06:52am | #1

   I've only seen spade point in 1/16th inch sizes.  If you could use metric brad point, http://www.rockler.com has them.   And if you could use metric Forstner, http://www.leevalley.com has them.

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 19, 2004 07:40am | #2

   How about an adjustable boring bit like this one at W.L. Fuller:

   http://www.bitsnbores.com/images/Mi0694.jpg

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   jackplane | Oct 19, 2004 03:24pm | #3

   Spade bits are designed for speed not accuracy or longevity.  A standard brad twist bit would be your best bet.

   
   

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   Edited 10/19/2004 3:31 pm ET by JACKPLANE

4. 
   mike4244 | Oct 19, 2004 03:49pm | #4

   If you have a drillpress and a crossslide vice you can successfully reduce spade bits to the size you need. You can taper a bit also. Take a block of wood , I use a 2x3 and staple a piece of heavy duty sandpaper to it. The drywall sanding sheets work fine. Put it in the vice, chuck the bit in the drill press.Advance the block slowly until you have sparks. Check the width of the bit often.Use slowest speed possible.The block  of wood can be moved to get fresh sandpaper if you need to.Use a beveled block for tapered bits. This takes a lot longer , but may be better for balusters.Make sure you mark the size of the bit, easy to reach for a 13/16" spade bit and grab the slightly reduced one.

   mike

   
   

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   Edited 10/19/2004 8:50 am ET by MIKEK4244

5. 
   RickL | Oct 19, 2004 03:58pm | #5

   If you are more careful in grinding down the bit they can be more consistent but in my opinion and experience the real solution is to use better tooling. You can't beat the price and quality of Lee Valley. I do the purchasing of tooling for my company and I've bought from just about all the main sources in the industry over many years, Fuller, Schmidt, Forrest,Alpha, etc.

1. 
   ewoods | Oct 20, 2004 04:53am | #8

   Thanks for all your responces. I will check out the Lee Valley web site. We have had very good luck drilling clean holes with a spade bit, even at rake angles. I'm also looking at larger metric brad point bits.

   Edited 10/19/2004 9:59 pm ET by EWoods

1. 
   RickL | Oct 20, 2004 02:34pm | #9

   I think you will be pleased with Lee Valley on selection and price.  I've used the other major manufacturers over the years and the Lee Valley prices and quality are superb. The guys in our shop are tough on tools and they last just as long as the more expensive tooling. I heard of a new forstner bit called a bormax that I'm going to try. It has teeth and relief cuts for cooler cutting. Supposed to be excellent in hardwoods. We do the occasional 4' to 11' deep  holes in timbers and logs and really push the tools to the limits and beyond.   http://www.alfatools.com

   Edited 10/20/2004 7:35 am ET by rick3ddd

6. 
   Dave45 | Oct 19, 2004 06:01pm | #6

   I'm not sure I would use a spade bit for stairs or anything that had to look good.  They aren't really designed for pretty work - just a fast way to drill a hole.

   For nice work, I would use a Forsner bit.

7. 
   EdHarrow | Oct 19, 2004 07:10pm | #7

   I've read of the spurs on an auger bit being tweaked out to cut an over-sized hole.  Not a job for a spade bit IMHO.  But, as others have said, why not just buy a bit the size you need. 

8. 
   hammer1 | Oct 20, 2004 03:04pm | #10

   Spade bits are great for stair work. The long point helps in starting the bit on angled holes in the railing. Trying to start a forstener or brad point at a 40° angle on an oak rail ain't fun. You just have to be more careful resizing the bit. Take one or two passes off each side at a time with a mill file. You can taper back slightly from the leading edge. Spade bits are cheap so hitting a nail in the stringer doesn't cost much compared to hitting one with an expensive bit. Mark the altered bits with a piece of tape so you can identify them. Keeping the holes parallel and 90° to the rail is most important if you want to get it together.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match