Replies

1. 
   troys | Aug 15, 2007 08:29am | #1

   I would use 3 4" hinges I like the ones with bearings. Use at least one longer screw for each hinge for the jam side of the door. You should be able to hang this door with two people. I made a new solid door out of walnut and was able to do it with one other person (a woman). Of course the other person did know what she was doing so that helped a lot. You did not say how wide the door is I am assuming a 36" wide door if you are talking about a 40" wide door you might want to go with a 4.5" hinge. Go for quality on the hinges I would not use the cheapest home depot ones. Good luck

   Troy

1. 
   ChuckyDee | Aug 15, 2007 06:45pm | #3

   Thanks for the info Troys.  It is a 36' door and I am suprised that two or three hinges would carry the weight.  I will insure that I get good quality hinges though.

   Chuchyd

    

1. 
   troys | Aug 16, 2007 06:52am | #7

   I would definitely do three hinges. You should be ok, also make sure your opening door jam is plum if it is not you might have problems. Fine home building has a book on hanging doors and installing windows I think. Anyway I am not a trim carpenter I just have an old house.Troy

2. 
   philip | Aug 15, 2007 10:53am | #2

   Troy gave you good advice about the hinges-avoid cheapies. Two good quality hinges would easily do the job and save you some money, but if you want to fit three there is no harm done.
   The important thing is the fit of the hinge mortises-they should be tight around the hinge : the screws just keep them in their housing.

   Philip Marcou
1. 
   ChuckyDee | Aug 15, 2007 06:48pm | #4

   Thanks Phillip,  I will take extra care with the morticing.

   Chuchcyd

3. 
   philip | Aug 16, 2007 04:38am | #5

   Wine, if you have to fit the door into an already fitted or permanent frame (brick buildings with metal frames, for example), a selection of wedges and a few wood shims save a lot of bother, especially if there is nobody to help you. Ditto a pair of trestles.

   Philip Marcou
4. 
   BoardmanWI | Aug 16, 2007 04:42am | #6

   Make sure you use ball-bearing hinges.  The BORG's won't have them - I got some a a bldrs. hdwe outlet.  They'll make the door swing much easier.

5. 
   zolton | Aug 16, 2007 02:38pm | #8

   The weight of this door, while substantial, shouldn't be a major problem. You can lever it into the frame using a prybar sitting on the floor. Or, for more controlled "jacking," use taperd shims in order to raise it to the point that the hinges line up. I've hung a lot of doors and after a few years of it decided to use my brains instead of my back in order to take most of the load off. Leverage works a lot better than straight-up lifting.

   Three good hinges will swing the door just fine. Ball bearing hinges are great, but not entirely necessary. They're pretty spendy. You can drop $20 per ball bearing hinge at Restoration Hardware (http://www.vandykes.com)..

   Zolton 

   * Some people say I have a problem because I drink hydraulic brake fluid. But I can stop any time I want.

6. 
   acornw | Aug 16, 2007 06:19pm | #9

   We build big doors everyday, and have advised many a carpenter on how to set them, but always ready to learn from the guys that have set several doors. We bench hang our doors, horizontally, and get the fit just right before going to the site.

   Hinges should be 4x4, ball bearing ,heavy plate - like an Emtek 96414 or 96415 (4-1/2 x 4-1/2). Three if the door is 80" maybe four if it is 84" definitely four if it is near 8'. Once set replace 1 or 2 screws in the upper hinge with ones long enough to go thru the shims and well into framing.

   Your jamb sounds a bit weak. We use 6/4 and rabbet the jamb to 3/4" and then add to the rabbet and kerf for foam w-strip, or leave it single rabbetted for metal w-strip. Either way, 1-1/4" thick stock should be considered a minimum. We rabbet, glue and lag the corners together and cant an 8/4 White Oak sill, also lagged and glued in place.

   Set the frame without the door, get the sill cut in (allow for top of sill to be 3/4" - 7/8" above finish floor), then plumb and shim and screw the hinge jamb in place. Then set the hinges, then the door on the hinges. Close carefully, then check your reveals all around and adjust. Once correct, set more shims and fasteners all around - more than you think.

   We also epoxy the door bottom - before it goes up. The painter never seals it beyond a single coat of something, and the door bottom is the most threatened part of the door.

   Dave S
   http://www.acornwoodworks.com

1. 
   ChuckyDee | Aug 16, 2007 10:38pm | #10

   Thanks to all of you, Wine, Boardman, Zolton and especially to Dave for his detailed reply.  I think, armed with your advice, this is a doable project for me.  I'll let you all know how it turns out.

   Chuck

    

1. 
   acornw | Aug 16, 2007 11:06pm | #11

   I did forget the standard advice - "Eat your Wheaties"Dave S

7. 
   doorboy | Aug 17, 2007 12:37am | #12

   I know this is an afterthought, but just for informational purposes you should always use at least 3 hinges on exterior doors. This helps minimize movement due to exposure. Ball-bearing hinges were developed for use in units with door closers--such as fire exit and smoke seal openings. However, they do offer smoother operation than non-bearing hinges. In your case, 4 hinges may be overkill. So I think I'd save the money on the fourth hinge and put it into an architectural grade hinge--.134 gauge, maybe 4 1/2 x 4 1/2.
   By the way, if you are dealing with ball bearing hinges, don't knock the pins out. That could damage the bearings that you pay so dearly for.
   Good luck

   "She wrote a long letter, on a short piece of paper." Traveling Wilburys
1. 
   McMarky | Aug 17, 2007 12:49am | #13

   Doorboy has it completely right.  Three or four 4x4 hinges.  Ball bearings are optional, they are for doors with closers.

    

   I've installed tons of 8'6" x 3' doors by myself, two people are plenty.