Last night I started building a sideboard for a client. It is in the shaker style and all the case work is solid wood. I have most of the case done and I though I would take some pics of the construction to show the method I use. Although this case is pretty basic I use the same system for pretty much all the solid wood casework I do and have had very good luck with it. If any of you are familiar with my 24 drawer workbench, I used the same procedures to build it. I’ll break this up into a few posts so it will be easier to keep the pictures straight.
I glued up all the panels last night and sanded them this morning and then cut them to their final dimensions.
The first pic shows the bottom panel. It has a sliding dovetail on each end which will mate with a dovetail groove on each side panel. The front of the panel has a 1 3/8 rail on the front which was added after the dovetails were cut at the router table.
Second pic is the bottom panel being installed in the side panel. The housing for the front rail was cut by hand.
Third pic is the bottom panel fully installed.
Tom
Douglasville, GA
Replies
The mid rail that divides the drawers on the top and door on the bottom made up of a frame. The front and back rails are fitted to the case side with sliding dovetails and they will both be glued in place.
The first pic shows the dovetail groove for the front rail. The shallow groove in the side of the case will support the drawer bottom guide.
Second pic shows the front rail installed and third pic is a larger view of the front rail installed and the center divider in place. The center divider sits in a dado in the bottom panel and a dado in the frame above it.
Tom
Douglasville, GA
First pic here shows the mortises in the back of the front rail that receive loose tenons for the drawer bottom guide. The rear rail has is mortised in a the same way.
Second pic shows the drawer guide installed. These get glued at the front mortise and tenon only. The rear tenon is installed dry so the case can expand and contract. The drawer support is cut a little short to allow for movement.
Third pic shows the entire frame installed and the drawer divider installed. The drawer divider is also a loose tenoned frame an is also glued at the front mortises only.Tom
Douglasville, GA
The first pic here pic shows the top frame ready to install. This frame is basically the same as the other except it is dovetailed into the top of the side. These dovetails were cut by hand.
Second and third pics show the top frame installed.
Fourth pic shows the whole case.
Tomorrow I hope to make the back frame and panels and make the face piece for vertical divider on the front. That will be half lapped at the mid rail and dovetailed to the top and bottom. Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom,
Great stuff..thanks for sharing. If you get a chance, could you share the dimensions of the carcas and the wood pieces.
The carcas is roughly 18" deep, 58" wide and 32" tall. All the stock was mild to 13/16. Maybe a hair under. I almost always start with rough lumber so I have better control of the final dimensions. The rail peices are all about 2". Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom,
these photos are very illustrative and really useful. thanks a lot for sharing your work with us.
I'm about to embark on my first large case piece, so I'm looking for tips on sliding dovetails.
Do you cut yours with a taper? and if so what taper do you use?
If you don't use a taper what is your technique to prevent the joint binding as you assemble it?
Ian
I don't use a tapered dovetail although I would imagine it would be a better joint. I adjust the fit with test cuts until it is a slip fit with hand pressure. It can be troublesome to get together and back apart sometimes but when the glu is applied it usually goes pretty well. The glue may act as a bit of a lubricant but you don't want to take too much time when assembling. You do want to make sure your stock is flat. If you have some cupping after the joints are cut you may be able to use a caul to keep things flat during assembly although I haven't run into that situation yet.
Once my panels are glued up and flattened I like to try to get things assembled as quickly as possible. The joinery I use in this case is designed to keep every thing flat. I can't take credit for the design of the joints, I saw it in a magazine and have used this method ever since and have been very happy with the results. If I find the reference I'll let you know.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Do you have a widebelt sander? If not, how are you able to flatten your large glueup panels?
I have a woodmaster drum sander and that does speed things up a bit but my glue ups are usually pretty good right out of the clamps. If I'm only doing a couple of smaller panels I don't bother with the sander and I'll use scrapers and planes.
Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom beautiful work. I hope my skills will someday come close to yours. Just a quick question for you though. Could you post some pics of your shop? From the little I can see, it looks very organized but obviosly used.
Many have been complaining about the new book, but if the rest of your shop looks as nice as that corner, you should submit some pics to Taunton (just post some here too so we don't have to wait 9 months for it to be published).
Can't wait to see the rest of the pics.
Jim
Coventry Woodworking
I'll try to get some pics of the shop in the next couple days. It's a big shop but I am getting ready to rearrange everything. When I first built the place six years ago I didn't have much equipment so placement wasn't that big an issue. I have a lot more machinery now and I have a much better idea what my work patterns are so hopefully I can make much more efficient use of the space.
I got the back put on the case today as well as the front peice on the divider. Also started milling the drawer and door parts. Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom,
Coupla quick questions, hope you don't mind. The center support, how is the bottom portion attached to the underside of the carcas? Also, do you permanently attach the back panel at this point....or briefly attach for glue-up and then remove for working the draws?...thanks
The center divider on this one just sits in a dado at the top and bottom. There is a peice glued to the front of it that is dovetailed at the top and bottom. The back is permanently attached now. I'll post some picture of it this afternoon.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom,
Thanks, looking forward to the next installment of...
BG
Here are a couple of pics of the back of the case installed. It is made up of a simple stub tenon frame and resawn cherry panels that are half lapped. Instead of bookmatching each resawn peice beside its mate, I opened them up as a bookmatch and put one half on each side. I have found that this is more pleasing to the eye when using half lapped panels. It also evens things out if you have one board that the color or grain is a little off from the rest.
There will be a base moulding that will finish out the case at the floor level. Hopefully I'll get to that this weekend. Didin't work on this peice at all today. Trying to get some chairs finished up.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom,
The panel looks terriffic and thanks for taking the time to post...this has got to be a hassel with your schedule.
Your shop looks great. It must be nice to have enough space to provide for every contingency...the snow shoes by the back door incase you need to dash to the outhouse in a snow storm...wonderful luxury....lol
Yup, here in GA you just never know when you might need those snowshoes. I bet I'm one of the few around prepared for that situation.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom
Great shop space. I am a bit jealous. What type of DC is it that you have? I have seen things like that on ebay,l I think, but have never seen one up close, or read about them. And, nice piece of carcase work.
Thx.Alan
http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com
Not sure what dust collector you are referring to since it's not in any of the pics. I have an older 3HP oneida cyclone system that I will be retrofiting with a cartridge type filter soon. The collector is mounted in the basement under the main shop.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Had about an hour and a half to spend in the shop today so I resawed some lumber for the door panels and trimmed the door frame parts to rough size. I like to lay everything out as it will be in the finished piece to see how all the grain looks. The doors will all have bookmatched panels cut from the same board. The board on top of the case is the one for the drawer fronts and the base moulding boards are also positioned.I'm happy with the way it will look so everything is now numbered or marked in such a way that I can keep track of these positions. Hopefully I can get the door joinery cut tomorrow.
I also added a couple more shop pics that should be a little brighter that the last set.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom
Every young family like yours needs a will. I highly suggest you get one done by your lawyer. You just never know what could happen and the will pin-points exactly what you wish before the fact and eliminates any potential problems after the fact.
BTW, when you enter who you leave the shop too, you spell it Sarge. The law demands exactness to avoid confusion.
he.. he...
Regards from L'ville...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I wish you had given me that info sooner. I just had the wills done last week. My wife shouldn't have any trouble getting a date after I'm gone.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom
I'm always a day late and a dollar short! She may not have any trouble getting a date, but will she have trouble getting a date with someone that knows how to use them as you?
I suspect not and sounds as if you're in the drivers seat unless something un-foretold happened. Those Ga. girls have their act together. If I guess correctly, there's already more plans for the girls room furniture and then grand-kids down the immediate road. Those tools are a long term investment and she's going to get her money's worth from you and them before all is said and done. Aren't women clever. he.. he...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Tom,
Very nice work. Different construction then I'm used to, thanks for sharing. Your jointer caught my eye, what is it?
Steve
The jointer is a Superior 12". It's quite a beast of a machine as far as looks go but it works great and is solid as a rock. Tom
Douglasville, GA
Here's the latest pics.
First is how I keep the reveal on the back panels even. I pin the center top and bottom of each panel with toothpicks.
Next is the base mould installation. I attach it using dovetail keys that are waxed for a snug sliding fit. The front inch or two is glued as is the miter.
Last pic shows the base moulding all installed and the doors set in place. Hope to hang them on the hinges tomorrow. Tom
Douglasville, GA
Thats beautiful work, Some day MABY i'll be able to improve my ww skills to do that degree. I #### u me that that is beans in the crockpot, or is that some new way of cooking peaches? :). Best regards, Gerald. (nnJerry).
Tom,
I'm in awe! I work as a buisy small time remodeler who sometimes gets to build built ins or odd furniture. I can't imagine juggling the kind of work you do all week! Thank you for posting these pics. and for the comentary.
Mike
Tom,
This is getting fascinating, really nice. The tooth picks are a great idea. Everything looks to smooth and solid. I'm particularly impressed with the dovetailed cleats for the base molding...a lot of extra work. Do you need to be concerned about side panel expansion and the cleats?
There shouldn't be any problem with the cleats and the side panel. That is why I did the cleats in sections. The middle cleats have only one screw each and just a little glue in the center so no issue there. The fron and back cleats have two screws each but they are spaced about 2" apart so the amount of movement there shouldn't be enough to cause concern.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom, beautiful shop, sure beats mine (13' X 18' w/ 7' ceilings). Obviously you are able to create great work with the tools at hand. You'll have to post final pics when the drawer, doors and mouldings are done.Jim
Coventry Woodworking
Nice work. Appreciate the pix. How will you handle the bottom. Any feet? Special treatment?
Thx.
AlanAlan
http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com
Here's a few quick pics I took of the shop. Sorry if they are a little dark. My sign collection sure seems to like the flash though. Not the cleanest shop in the world but not a total disaster either. I wish I could keep it cleaner cause it is a real pleasure to work in when it's nice and tidy. Ijust always seem to have way too many projects going at once to keep it up.Tom
Douglasville, GA
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