Greetings
I’m picking up a load of soapstone for my new kitchen countertops next week. From what I have read here and elsewhere I should be able to work the stone with carbide tipped woodworking tools. No worries about straight cuts and drain board, but the sink cutout raises a couple questions.
DW has chosen a double bowl sink with two different sized bowls, so several curves. I am planning on building a 1/2″ plywood template and cutting out the sink hole with a straight router bit and a bushing so I can make multiple deeper cuts. The soapstone is 1 1/4″ thick. With the template and bushing will a 1 1/2″ cut length bit reach deep enough to cut through?
Also, the stone on the users side of the sink will only be about 4″ across. The back side is about 18″. Should I let in and epoxy a steel bar on the 4″ underside for strength? If so what dia and how much overlap past the sink? Will I be able to move the cut out slab (with my three friends) once the cut is made?
Finally-anyone have a good source for simple angle brackets to support the 14″ overhang on the back side of the sink? The overhang stretches about 7′, how many supports do I need?
Thanks in advance for your insight.
Chris
Replies
I would recomend that you post on Break time because they do more of this sort of thing. Adding metal to strengthen the front of the sink cut out will not help because the metal will still flex under a load that could break the stone ( unless you use 2"x2" angle). What is inportaint is that the top of the cabinets is perfectl flat. Most installers add strips of 1/4" plywood on top to the rails, sides and back shimming then level or flat at the same time.
Cutting in place is not necessarry but if you don't mind the mess it is less risky. The pros never cut in place because of the mess and cleanup.
Decorative corbels are a great way to add strength to a bar and keep the astethics as well. I don't know the requirements of soap stone but I'd stay on safe side.
Mike
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