All
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I have a Tormek 2006 Supergrind system.
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I’m wondering if it’s all right to leave the water in the trough over night or for a few days (if in use off and on) or whether the stone should be allowed to dry out. I have noticed that allowing the stone to soak well (over night) helps with the grinding where as a stone that has soaked for 15 mins is still quite dry.
I wouldn’t want to leave water in for a week without being in the shop but does leaving the stone in water for long periods degrade the integrity of the stone.
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Strangely Tormeks web site and the hand book don’t seem to mention this (or I just missed it).
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Cheers
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Glynn
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Most used woodworking terminology: Ooops.
Most useful tool: Wood burning stove.
Replies
When I was at Marc Adams he said that if the wheel was left in the trough with water it would tend to be out of round since the top part will still dry and the part in the trough would be swollen with water.
That's an odd statement, since the matrix that makes up the Tormek and other waterstones doesn't "swell" at all when it absorbs water.
It's true that it might well be out of balance, since the side that's been soaking in the water might've absorbed more and thus be heavier than the side that's dry, but out of round - nah. I wouldn't think this would matter much since the rotational speed of the Tormek is so slow (compared to dry grinders)
From the standpoint of cutting efficiency, I find that the only way I can get the Tormek to cut aggressively enough is to use the diamond truing jig to remove the top (glazed) surface of the stone. The stone grader that comes with the tool just isn't effective in restoring the cutting action, IMO.
I've heard about this happening to natural sandstone grinding wheels, which makes more sense since the binder in that case is whatever it happens to be; some types of clay will certainly swell when wet.
It's possible that the experience with natural stones is being (improperly?) extrapolated to synthetic ones.
-Steve
>The stone grader that comes with the tool just isn't effective in restoring the cutting action, IMO.Agreed.Regards
All.
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Thanks for all the input.
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I ask the question because I forgot to empty the water one night and the next day when I went to use it, the grading stone worked a whole lot better. I always found de glazing with the grading stone only ever had limited results but after a nights soak I removed ALL the glaze.
This will be very helpful when sharpening the jointer blades where the stone glazes over quite quick.
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Best.
<!----> <!---->Glynn.
Most used woodworking terminology: Ooops.
Most useful tool: Wood burning stove.
You know, there might be a chemistry explanation for what you're seeing. I'd always assumed the "glazing" on a stone was from the grit particles getting worn down, and you have to remove them with a diamond dresser to get a fresh surface that cuts well.
Perhaps little steel particles contributes to the glazing of the surface, however. Soaking over night might then cause this embedded steel to turn to rust and fall out of the stone matrix. It's worth a shot - re-truing the wheel constantly with the diamond dresser is a real drag, to the point that I'm thinking of supplementing the Tormek with a conventional dry "slow speed" grinder.
Interestingly enough, it's actually possible to spend a mint on a dry grinder; I'd always though of them as being the poor man's option, but these really break the bank:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-BALD.XX&Category_Code=TFA
The stone itself is designed to last for years (subject to change based on individual use) so I am sure that soaking it for a few days would not cause a problem.
Personally, I run mine for about 15 minutes before I use it and it cuts pretty well. I still turn to my 4000/8000 grit stones for final finishing.
If you're still concerned, call their customer service department. I'd bet you'll get the answer you are looking for.
Cheers,
T
Only part of the stone is water-soaked if left over night. If the soaked part cuts more aggressively, then it stands to reason that there is a difference of wear on different parts of the stone and this might be the complaint of wearing the stone out of round. I never thought of leaving the water in mine. Once there was an imperfection, or hard spot, that made itself known. The wheel became quite out or round. I finally ground it down with the diamond but it never seemed to be as aggressive after that.
Mine dries out between uses. Sometimes it takes two days to evaporate the reservoir. I refill the water trough before use, and let the wheel run for about 3 minutes and it is ready to go.
The wheel is not out of round nor does it run with any detectible imbalance because of the slow speed.
Greg
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Exo 35:30-35
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