Replies

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 07, 2004 09:25pm | #1

   I'm not sure if your question concerns how to cut the groove, or how to eliminate snipe. Cutting the groove is easy enough with any assortment of tools you prefer. 

   The holy grail of machine planing is snipe free jointers and snipe free thickness planers. The reality is that snipe is normal, despite all the claims of tool sellers. Woodworkers the world over expect snipe as a normal woodworking reality. They allow for and discard the sniped ends into the scrap pile. Discard about 2"at either end as waste and carry on building your box.

   Cut the groove after flattening your board and during the joinery, mitre the joint at the points the groove carries around the corner to hide it. Slainte.

   RJFurniture

1. 
   bakesale1 | Apr 07, 2004 10:08pm | #3

   Thanks for the post.  I plan to cut the groove with my dado on the TS.  (I know you shaking your head now.)  I thought it would turn out more precise if I left the board in one piece until I cut the groove.  My question really was  (but poorly phrased) is the snipe at the end of the board the result of improper set up on the jointer or the result of running a board that's too long.

2. 
   JohnWW | Apr 07, 2004 09:44pm | #2

   Which end is the snipe on?

   John W.

1. 
   bakesale1 | Apr 07, 2004 10:09pm | #4

   John, it's on the end that's last to pass over the knives.

1. 
   eddiefromaustralia | Apr 07, 2004 10:35pm | #5

   Outfeed table too low, but, I agree with Sgian/RJ - hold your tongue differently here and you'll get more or less snipe each board.

   I work oversize and trim off about 4" from the end.

   Cheers,

   eddie

2. 
   JohnWW | Apr 07, 2004 11:57pm | #6

   I second the thought that your outfeed table is a bit low, raise it a bit at a time and see if the snipe disappears.

   John W.

3. 
   Mackwood | Apr 08, 2004 03:33am | #7

   bake sale,

   I've been able to almost eliminate the snipe I get from my planer by grasping the far end of the board and lifting up just slightly as the last few inches get cut.  If it's only a few thou. don't fool with your planer, just work around it as the others have suggested.

   Regards,

   Mack

   Edit: OOPS, you were talking about a jointer weren't you,  sorry!  DUH

   "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

   Edited 4/7/2004 8:36 pm ET by Mack

3. 
   ChasStanford | Apr 08, 2004 09:26pm | #8

   I would always allow for it and cut off the sniped end(s).  You can wrestle around with building auxilliary infeed and outfeed tables if you want to (or other measures), but the results are not guaranteed.  If you cut off the sniped portion of the board, I can absolutely guarantee that you will no longer have a board with a sniped end.  How's that for logic?

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/8/2004 6:23 pm ET by CHASSTANFORD

4. 
   MBL | Apr 08, 2004 10:25pm | #9

   Dear friends,

   For much time, also felt that snipe was not manageable, in spite of usual checks and adjustments, in/outfeed support, etc.

   However, once, after making a thorough adjusting of in-feed, out-feed rollers, knives, and all required, spent a good time investigating the snipe causes.

   After the tuning, still some snipe appeared on the test boards. However, had been doing all tests WITHOUT tightening the elevating colums locks. There are two on this Delta 15" clone, floor-standing planer.

   On this planer, when the two locks were tightened, no snipe resulted. So, the conclusion here is that snipe was caused by the cutter-head not being firm enough to prevent it from slightly jerking up or down. There are four columns on which the motor and cutter-head move up or down for adjusting the cut-depth. The two locks work on each of two diagonally opposed columns.

   Before this finding, had been neglecting to lock the columns due to the extra effort and time required, and conceding that snipe was natural.

   Now, the initial passes may go without locking, but on the final ones, do opt for locking those colums.

   So, if this option is available in your planers, perhaps it needs to be taken, as far as snipe is concerned.

   -mbl-

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/8/2004 3:28 pm ET by mbl

5. 
   Bill5507 | Apr 08, 2004 10:38pm | #10

   Pass a scrap board, of the same thickness, behind the board you are planing.  The cutter heads won't move and the snipe will end up on the scrap and not on the money piece.