Considering purchase of a Performax 22-44 Drum Sander.Is snipe a problem with this particular sander? Sanding after a planer is one thing, but having to sand after a sander? Anybody been there? Is there any thing else I should be on the lookout for? Thanks….Single, retired woodworker living on a lake in a National Forest…why do I put up with it…….
Edited 8/8/2009 11:45 am by NoChecks
Replies
I have a 22-44 and have never experienced snipe. I have used abrasives from 60 to 150 grit and no snipe.
The main thing to remember with a drum sander is that it is a sander, not a thicknessing planer. The cuts are minimal in thickness reduction. I have reduced thickness of panels but it requires many passes of .015" or so, and requires 60-80 grit sand strips. My normal grit is 100 or 120 and this will remove a usable amount and is easy to finish sand with 150 grit and up in a ROS. The panels come out flat, even, and beautiful. You can surface shiop made veneer easily and safely and you have a smooth, even surface for gluing.
I use my 22-44 a lot and would be lost without it. One thing to remember is to use only good quality, cloth sanding strips. I hope this has been helpful, if you have any questions, just ask.
Bruce
Really appreciate the response to my question....got several others and now all I have to do is fork over the money....thanks againBobSingle, retired woodworker living on a lake in a National Forest...why do I put up with it.......
I have the Performax 16/32 and I have never experienced any snipe on boards less than 40-50" On long boards if I do not support the stock on the out feed end adequately I get a very slight visual snipe which is only a few thousands in depth.
I looked at the 16-32 at the dealer....looks like a good unit...I need the larger size (costs more as usual). I never need the lower price item...why is that?? Many thanks for your reply, this is a great place to learn....BobSingle, retired woodworker living on a lake in a National Forest...why do I put up with it.......
I have the small Performax drum sander. I love it!
I for one WILL get some snipe on long 'sticks' if they are are not supported .. USE INPUT AND OUTPUT support stands. Also.. some snipe (rut) in the middle sections of the stick can occur if set for a deep sand. I keep to about 50% feed rate with a 'kiss' sanding... As many passes at it takes...
As to hidden Snipe..
Nothing really visible until you try to finish the ''stick' just drum sanded... Snipe.. Or I would call a 'burnishing stripe' that shows up where the Snipe would be.. Even with properly set roller stands.
I wet all 'sticks' after drum sanding finish with paint thinner.. If I see the 'hidden marks' I pick up my orbital sander (with the same grit as in the drum sander) and make a quick sanding along the 'stick'.. Wipe again.. Let it flash off.. And a 'touch' of hand sanding in the burnished areas if required...
I'd say the hold down roller springs are WAY to weak. OK, maybe a GOOD (As in a very expensive) drum sander has a way better feed motor!
I live with it's faults and still love it.. A gift from my daughters. I use it for everything possible. I do HATE changing the sanding belts!
Thanks a bunch for the quick reply and the information. I guess it's business as usual...the more you spend, the more you get. It should be adequate for my needs.....thanks again...BobSingle, retired woodworker living on a lake in a National Forest...why do I put up with it.......
As others have noted it is possible to get snipe on very long boards that are unsupported. That is because the head is fairly light weight and unsupported on the outboard end and the weight hanging over the bed could force the board up against the drum at the beginning or end of the cut. There is only one roller on each side of the drum head that holds the stock down against the feed belt. They exert enough pressure to hold a board flat within the confines of the infeed and outfeed tables. I bought the extension tables, and while they are only about 18" long each, they do a terrific job in supporting longer pieces. You can also just hold the end level as you start a long board and lift the outboard end level as it exits the sander, or just use stands.
If you let the end of a board overhang the bed of any machine unsupported various unwanted things can happen. The drum sander is no exception. I use extended support for long stock on any woodworking machine if the stock overhangs the tables by an appreciable amount. Just use sensible methods of work and the results will be great.
One point I forgot to make in my original post; a proper dust collector is an asbolute must with a drum sander. If you do have a dust collector, not only will you have a shop, and your lungs, full of fine dust but the machine will not perform correctly. I would recommend at least a 1 1/2 hp collector with a short run of 4" hose or a cyclone. The dust this machine can produce with 100 grit paper just has to be seen to be believed.
Bruce
"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
Edited 8/8/2009 8:46 pm ET by Wingdoctor
One point I forgot to make in my original post; a proper dust collector is an asbolute must with a drum sander. I agree fully!
I inherited a Performax 16/32 and have found no snipe as long as the work is supported perfectly. A roller stand for a 5 ft board won't cut it, you'll get snipe in the middle of the board. You need full support such as sheets of wood. To do long boards, I recently set mine up with a 5 ft and an 8 ft infeed and outfeed table so I could sand some 60" long pieces. I clamped everything to a heavy long bench. It worked perfectly with no snipe. I also designed and added to mine, a removable lock for the open side of the drum carriage so it wouldn't deflect when pieces were fed through it, an issue with open ended drum sanders. I haven't had mine long, but it excels at figured wood... zero tearout!
I agree with the longer infeed and outfeed tables. I have done the same with my planer...works great. I do like the idea of a lock on the sander...will explore that more when it arrives. Thanks....BobSingle, retired woodworker living on a lake in a National Forest...why do I put up with it.......
Single, retired woodworker living on a lake in a National Forest...why do I put up with it.......
I would say go to the local town and find a lovely NEW wife.. As my wife died she told be to get another woman.. I never did and very lonely.. BUT my grandbabies come over often to keep me sane..
NC,
I have the 16/32 and Bruce has it nailed.
Once while sanding, the DC slipped the connection and well, let's just say it was ugly. You really should NOT run the machine without a GOOD dust collector and a respirator too; at the very least a dust mask, just in case.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
How to fix the issue and new possibilities
The Performax 22-44 is a great overall machine but sadly it is known to suffer from the snipe issue. This is mainly due (in my opinion) do the rollers being too tight and if you start loosening them they will eventually stop the snipe. Having that said the Performax company has since been bought by JET and they have highly improved the older models and released them as brand new modern drum sanders. You can check their new machines, features and compare the different models and even the competition here. It'll certainly help you get the very best drum sander for your needs although keeping the Performax isn't a bad option as it's a very durable beast!
Hope I helped!
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