Replies

1. 
   luther | Oct 22, 2005 03:04am | #1

   Any planer can snipe the ends (even the locked ones) if a wide heavy board is not properly supported at the entry & exit points.

   Two people should be used to prevent this from happening.

   Even then the wood should be railroaded end to end.

    

    

   woody/LUTHER

2. 
   kellyanderson | Oct 22, 2005 03:06am | #2

   i have had this planer for almost 2 years and while i have had some snipe i would say it has been very little compared to the amount of wood i have sent through it. i have used it for wide and skinny, short and long boards.

3. 
   DennisS | Oct 22, 2005 04:40am | #3

   Moose -

   I have a DeWalt 13"'er and yeah, I get "sniped" most of the time if I'm not careful in supporting the stock both on entry and exit from the machine. But as was suggested already, you need to make a sled or otherwise some kind of setup using scrap material that's longer than your work piece to engage the infeed and outfeed rollers before and after your work stock. It's really the only way (I know of) to totally avoid this snipe problem.

   Otherwise, just do all your jointing and planing before you cut the stock to length, leaving it sufficiently long to trim the snipe off.

1. 
   Moosewood | Oct 22, 2005 11:37pm | #5

   Thank you for your thoughts.

   Rick

1. 
   WhatKnot | Oct 22, 2005 11:52pm | #6

   Snipe will occur on most any planer when planing wide boards if the board is not reasonably flat to begin and you attempt to take too much material off in a single pass. The resultant spring effect of the wood when its clearing the feed rollers is probably the culprit.

   Try lighter passes until you see that you are taking material off the full width of the board then turn the board over and plane it to thickness, taking off no more that a 32nd of an inch per pass.

   This is also where the 80% rule comes into play. 80% of the wood you buy will be usable with the remaining 20% succombing to things such as snipe, etc. It doesnt always mean you'll loose 20% just that you should plan for it. (Risk Managment)

    Steve

   "You can either be smart or pleasant, I was once smart but now I'm pleasant. I like being pleasant better." Jimmy Stewart - Harvey

2. 
   DennisS | Oct 23, 2005 06:02am | #7

   Moose -Quite welcome.Now a question for you.My DeWalt is an older model I bought from Home Depot. The specs say that it's supposed to have a 1/8" capacity for stock removal. I've checked the install of the knives (several times) but after having had them sharpened I don't seem to be able to take off more than about 1/16".How much can you remove in one pass on your machine?

1. 
   Moosewood | Oct 23, 2005 07:06am | #8

   I do not push it. Generally, I take 1/32 passes until I achieve the thickness I am looking for.

   Thanks again

   Rick

1. 
   DennisS | Oct 23, 2005 07:19am | #9

   Hi Moose -Yeah, normally I try to sneak up on the finished thickness myself but there are times when I'd like to hog off a pretty hefty cut. I recall when I first got this thing I could do the 1/8" cut but for some reason, even with the stock scraping on the head on the infeed side, I don't get a very deep cut.There's something I'm missing here.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 22, 2005 10:07pm | #4

   I have seen 'snipe' on really high end industrial stuff.. Not often but it happens..

   if the 'stick' is really important and your tables adjusted properly you can hot melt glue some scrap to the lead/tail (same general thickness) They need to be a bit longer than where your 'snipe' shows up.. Never had one break away but who knows?..

   I think I saw someplace a stick longer than you work was glued/brad to each side of the board.. Make sense?