I normally use Tite-Bond yellow glue. It sets too fast for some of the projects I do, when I clamp. Any ideas about a slower setting glue? Does white glue set slower? Is it as strong as yellow?
Edited 2/24/2008 12:50 pm ET by 70445
Discussion Forum
Edited 2/24/2008 12:50 pm ET by 70445
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Titebond III has a longer open time than Titebond or Titebond II. The 2000 GF glue that Lee Valley sells also has a long open time.
-Steve
I use epoxy, fairly regularly, mainly for the slow set-up time (about a half hour). For most wood working projects, the 2-ton epoxy which comes in the two small tubes works fine. For larger projects you might want to consider the West System epoxies.
Chip
Edited 2/24/2008 1:16 pm ET by ChipTam
70445,
I am a member of the Washington Woodworkers Guild. Last Tuesday we had a talk from Jeff Headley, who is a fine furniture maker in Virginia. His brother, Mack was the head of woodworking at Williamsburg. These guys are really TOP NOTCH.
Near the end of his talk someone asked him about glue. He says that he uses hide glue whenever they need something to be reversible or when a customer asks for it. THE REST OF THE TIME THEY USE ELMERS WHITE GLUE.
Can you believe that? So he was asked all of the questions you can think of? Is it as strong as yellow glue? It is stronger than the wood itself. It may not be as water resistant as yellow glue, but how often does one need that? He has never had a joint failure using white glue. The setting time for white glue is much much longer than for yellow glue.
Go to
http://www.headleyandsons.com/
and check out their stuff to see if it meets your criteria for "good". I think it will. Then write them and ask them about white glue.
After Jeff's talk, I am returning to the use of white glue except for pieces that I plan to keep underwater for long periods of time. :-)
Enjoy.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
The setting time for white glue is much much longer than for yellow glue.
How much longer? Longer than LV's GF 2002 with "an open time of 15 to 20 minutes and a clamping time of 30 to 90 minutes?" Other thing that I like about the GF 2002 over white glue is it "virtually eliminates staining. Any squeeze-out remains on the surface, allowing it to be fully removed (best done with a cabinet scraper once partially cured), avoiding any problems when a finish is applied later."
View Image
Samson,
I wasn't aware that the LV glue does away with staining from squeeze out. That is definitely worth looking into. I used Elmers for a long time, and never had any problems with it. Then I started to go with the yellow glues. I do have some things I need from LV so I'll add in an order for some of their glue. Thank you.I wonder what Jeff Heath's answer to the idea of switching from White Glue to the LV stuff? Thanks,
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Thanks to all for their useful information. I might try some Elmers White, hate to order only one item from LV, even through it might be really good.
70,
Don't just order one thing from LV. That is a crime against the nature of woodworkers. EGAD. I couldn't imagine such a thing. I need to get some of your self control. Mine left.
Have fun.
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Tite-bond makes " Extend" for complex assemblies requiring more open time.
Paul
a little tip that i heard was that if you put yellow glue in your fridge it will become cold so it will run less, and have a longer open time. you might want to try that out first before you go buying all these other different glues.
I don't know your age, and I am probably dating myself, but when I was a kid in the '70's, Elmers used to run a tv ad where they glued two 2x's together and used them as diving board. Their tag line at the end of the commercial was that the glue was stronger than the wood itself. I may be wrong here, but I thought that Elmer's white glue was a PVA glue. I know it's not toxic because I used to eat the stuff when I was schoolboy -- that, and paste (I actually preferred paste to glue, but both had a pleasant taste). Of course, now I'm wondering how many that read this will, for curiosity's sake try some :-)
I don't know it was the case back in the '70s, but nowadays, "school glue" is much different than white glue, atleast in bond strength if not taste.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I use titebond extend. It provides more open time. It is in their words "slower setting version of titbond original. For larger glue-ups its great.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Welwood plastic resin. The powdered stuff. Gives an hour or more of open time. Its waterproof and will never let go. Leave it clamped up for at least 12 hours or so. Its the same stuff David Marks uses all the time on his show....
Edited 2/24/2008 5:47 pm ET by Jimmy
When I lived in Vegas, I used Gorilla glue almost exclusively. All of the pva glues had open times of what seemed like seconds in the high heat and low humidity. Whereas the poly had an open time of twenty to thirty minutes. I just had to remember to dampen the part that didn't get the glue applied to it just before assembly.
The poly glues take moisture to cure correctly, so the clamp time was several days to let it cure fully, but it was stronger than any of the joints I got with the pva glues, because they were drying before I could get things assembled.
I use white glue or cold hide glue when I need a longer closed time, e.g., gluing up chairs.
Personally, since Titebond white runs $1.58 for 8 oz., I can't see spending 4 times as much for virtually the same thing.
All of these glues have shear strength within a few percent of each other and beyond most woods, that to me means prep and proper application is more important than the color of the glue you grab.
http://www.titebond.com/download/pdf/ww/GlueGuideTB.pdf
Edited 2/24/2008 9:00 pm ET by byhammerandhand
I looked at the titebond site and they list the open time as five minutes for titebond white. I couldn't find any data on elmers site.
I might try the LV because I too would like a longer open time.Webby
I checked on the LV web site and think I'll try some of there 2002 white glue. It has a woring time time of 15-20 minutes, compared to 5 minutes for TiteBond. Thanks for everybody's imput, it sure was useful.
Another vote for UF Plastic Resin glue. Long open times, zero creep and a lovely glue line, easy to sand, that won't interfere with staining. It is also repairable as its residue sticks to itself or epoxy.
Titebond can't be repaired easily as nothing useful sticks to its residue. Conserve a few valuable antiques with hide glue, resin or casein joints glued over by some homeowner with Titebond and you'll learn to cuss the stuff. I can't imagine inflicting it on someone else one day by using it on my own furniture.
Are your glue joints repairable?
http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=6799
Edited 2/24/2008 11:15 pm by BobSmalser
Mel,I've used Elmer's 'white glue' for years with never a hint of failure. A month ago I purchased a new bottle and found the bottle and logo completely changed. So was the glue IMHO - very fluid; ran and dribbled all over the place. Did Headley mention this change?I've switched to the GF 2000.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Frosty,
Based on what I have learned recently, I believe I will try the LV glue also. You and I think alike. Is it possible we are twins who were separated at birth?
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
Hey, who knows? Maybe you're the "Heatmiser" and he is the "Snowmiser"!
That's a scary thought! Do you suppose the world could (would) really tolerate such an event?Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
For complex assemblies I use urea glue (Unibond 800). You can adjust the mixing ratio for longer open time. I can get as much as 40 minutes of open time if needed. That and the fact that its a very strong glue with a rigid glue line makes it ideal. Cheers.
Russ.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled