Howdy!
I’m looking for suggestions for a cabinet that i’m building for our bathroom.
First off it;s a sink base for one of those fancy “Bowl sits on top of the cabinet ” sinks rather than being set into the top of the cabinet as usual.
Second, it;s a period bathroom (colonial) so it;s set up to appear as a washbowl sitting on a cabinet. Then cabinet that she found a picture of has a single drawer over a panel door. The drawer has a single knob centered on the face. Both the door and drawer are set into the cabinet face
Here’s the issue – I want to make the drawer useful, but it’s got to be split in the middle so that it can slide back into the cabinet and straddle the drain from the sink.
That means two drawer boxes with a single face.
Any suggestions on how to attach the drawer face to these two boxes? I’m working with Pine and the cabinet will be painted.
Thanks!
HB
Replies
"First off it's a sink base for one of those fancy 'Bowl sits on top of the cabinet' sinks rather than being set into the top of the cabinet as usual."
Just so you know, those are now considered passé. They were all the rage a couple of years ago, until people figured out how hard it was to keep the counter top clean. (Pretty obvious, I always thought.)
-Steve
HB,
Maybe you could add a front member to the drawer box on each side , a piece of 1/2" material that looks like the rest of the drawer and fasten through it .
Maybe you could put 2 pulls on depending on the width ?
dusty
This is a new one for me, but if I was building such a thing, I'd mount two drawers, side-by-side, with undermount guides, and simply screw the face, wide enough to cover both drawers, onto the drawer boxes, from inside, with the knob in the middle.
One nice thing about this kind of drawer is you can make through DTs -- quicker and easier than half-blind, especially if done by hand.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Mike - thanks for the info. I do 95% of my work with handtools, so through dovetails on all four corners of the drawer boxes will definitely be easier than half blinds on the front. I wondered if a couple of screws might not be the simplest way to go - don't know why I second guessed mysef there.
I've done sliding dovetail grooves to attach drawer faces on some small stuff I've done in the past, but it seemed like it would over complicate the project.
Thanks!
Steve- I also wanted to thank you for your valuable input to the project - figuring out how to keep the cabinet top clean will be a breeze after I had to figure out how to rig the pitcher that she's going to put next to the sink bowl to be the faucet. Now that was a challenge!
HB
I'm not sure what you're refering to by "a couple of screws". ???
I'd make a couple of through DT boxes for drawers and fit them as flush-front drawers, undermount slides, at either side of a single drawer opening, with a couple of inches of space between them. (Or, if you want the final front to be flush, then fit the boxes 3/4" back.) Then just connect the two with a single false front screwed to each box front. I'd use traditional DT joinery to help resist any racking tendency caused by the two-drawer/one front setup. The false front method is actually pretty common in kitchen cabs. The only trick is to get the front lined up correctly with both the drawer box and the cab frame. Double-stick tape comes in handy for that.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Another way of looking at it would be a single drawer with what, a 2" U-channel halfway in from the back.
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