I’ve been avoiding learning how to properly sharpen for my whole life, and this week I took the time to buy some three in one oil and an oilstone and get to work. . . I know the basics, whet, hone, polish, but the ridiculous thing is that I know I’m supposed to build a slurry of oil and metal shavings on top of the stone, but as soon as I pour it on, the pores of the stone suck the oil right in. It seems as if there’s abraded metal particles clogging the top of the stone now, and there’s a noticible decrease in grinding in the used spot. . . the question is, should I really be flooding the stone with oil to keep the metal particles off the surface? Should I just true the stone against another one every so often to refresh the surface? As for polishing the blade after it comes to razor sharpness, is it necessary and what is the favored technique? Thanks, as always!
Keith
Replies
Keith,
The oil is just there to float the metal particles and keep them from glazing the surface of the stone. Oriental waterstones make use of a slurry of abrasive and water to do the work. Oil thinner than 3-in1 will act less like a lubricant, and yield a more aggressive feel to the stone. I like marvel mystery oil; old timers used to "cut" 30 weight motor oil with kerosene for honing.
I have a "no-name" stone that is so porous that honing oil just soaks into, and through it. Right out the other side. "India" stones, by Norton do not have this characteristic, and so do not need constant re-application of oil while honing.
When finished, wipe off the oil (and metal particles).
I hone on a fine India after grinding, then a soft arkansas, then hard black arkansas. It takes only a few minutes. The more polished the edge, the longer it will last between sharpenings, and the better the quality of the surface of the wood worked. Looked at microscopically, an edge from a coarse stone will be jagged from the scratches left by the stone, and will more readily crumble from the pressure of use.
Regards,
Ray
White. A new stone should be soaked in oil 'til it 's saturated. Then with a clean cloth, wipe off any excess and store in a heavy gauge plastic bag.
When using the stone, apply just a little new oil and smear it over the whole face of the stone with a finger.
When actually sharpening on the stone, try not to 'rock' the tool or you'll round over the edge and make matters worse.
Practice with an older chisel 'til you wind up with a 'keen'edge.
Also, so as not to wear an indentation in the surface, don't concentrate in only the center of the stone; BUT, move all about to evenly wear the stone.( make figure 8's) Most 'Newbies' pull the blade over the stone instead of pushing the edge forward toward and into the stone.
After first sharpening on the coarse side of the stone, wipe off the stone and repeat the HONING on the fine side. (Don't forget the oil! After you achieve a fine sharp edge, NOW pull the blade lightly in the reverse mode once or twice.
Usually, at this point, you can shave the hair off your wrist; BUT, if you want 'Scarry Sharp', 'Strop' it on a piece of sole leather attached to a small flat paddle. ( ping pong type).
Stropping means on the pull stroke ONLY and NO ROCKING!Ask your barber
Steinmetz. It's good to rub a coating of Jewelers Rouge over the leather once and again.
Yes on the stropping. I use a stropping compound - emery, cerium oxide, etc over the years. But, NEVER strop the back side of a chisel or plane iron - only the bevel side!!!
tele, I stand corrected.I was thinking of my straight razor. It is imperitive to keep the flat side down when stropping a razor so as not to rock and thereby round over the edge
Actually. on chisels and plane irons I lightly do BOTH sides
Steinmetz.
When and if the stone becomes oil-clogged a quick fix is to boil it for about half an hour.
IanDG
Many years ago, the corborundum stone manufacturers shipped their stones filled with parafin, to prevent the run-through of honing oils. A fresh stone can be filled by heating both stone and parafin in a double boiler, removing the stone before the remaining material solidifies. The stone's fill can be minimized by heating it alone later. I suggest that corborundum stones be reserved for the coarsest of manual "grinding and shaping", and revert to Washata (mis-spelled on purpose) and Arkansas stones for the real sharpening. A rouge & oil filled leather strop will put the finishing touch on carving tools needing that extra polish. It also adds a nice touch to a block or trimming plane as well.
John in Texas
Nice post!
I forgot all about that one... Though I do not use my old stones anymore it is nice to remember something you 'long forgot!'
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