Sideboard-Entertainment Centre: Building the frame
derekcohen
| Posted in Hand Tools on
Friends, here is the next installment of my WIP. There are a couple of areas I could use some advice.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Sideboard-Buildingtheframe.html
Looking forward to all and any comments and suggestions.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Replies
karri/jarrah work
Derek, you`re a master and are doing inspiring work.
ANY criticism would simply be churlish.
I look 4ward to seeing and hearing about how you feel those hinges worl.
They seem pretty strong to me.
Ron Booth
Hi Ron
You are too kind.
Here is a link to next installment, the completed doors....
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SEC-ACompletedDoor.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek,
Nice router. Sometimes they are fun to use.
So why is this thread in "Hand Tools"?
Of course, it really doesn't make any difference. The router can be considered a 'hand tool' whereas its big brother, the shaper must be considered a stationary tool. Come to think of it, the sign says "Hand Tools" but doesn't say whether they are motorized or not. So I take it back, this thread is fine here in Hand Tools. I may start a thread here on the Sawzall. It is amazing what that thing can do -- and very quickly.
Enjoy - nice work on the sideboard.
Mel
Mel
Is not a hand held router a 'hand tool'?
WG,
Always good to hear from you. It's fun to deal with folks who enjoy a little humor.
I had always thought of "Hand tools" as a place to discuss human-powered tools (planes, chisels, saws, etc). It wasn't until I read Derek's post, featuring a router, that I re-thought the title "hand tools". Actually, there are not many tools that are not "Hand Tools". One turns a CNC machine on with one's hand, and one programs it with one's hands. So even a CNC machine is a hand tool.
Humor is in the eyes of the beholder. To me, the world is a humorous place.
Mel
a
Mel
Start at the beginning: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Sideboard-EntertainmentCentre.html
Then: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Curvingandgroovingtheframe.html
And: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Sideboard-Buildingtheframe.html
Finally: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SEC-ACompletedDoor.html
Then you can decide whether this belongs in the hand tool section.
I am not sure if anyone gets your humour. I don't.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Jeeeeezzz......
So, why don't you show us how it is done? As someone who actually bragged about teaching people in a Woodcraft on how to sharpen their planes you must have some great projects done a 100% with hand tools. Please post the link where I can see your work in progress and learn what techniques you prefer to use. It does not matter if these techniques are simple, after all what Derek is posting is not anything that anyone with a well stocked workshop cannot do.
I eagerly wait for your link. Thanks...
door frames
Thanks for the new link.
All looking good now.
I went back thru the earlier links and found your comments on the HNT shaves v interesting as I have a friend here in Hobart trying to find a round bottom shave.
He is talking about the traditional old beech shave with friction fit blade.
I think he would be better served by the HNT, so shall fill him in.
I smile hearing you speak of the difficulties in working these timbers.--I am making a small display cabinet for a friend who has a trove of about 24 pipeclay pipes, discovered under the floor of his Battery Point house some years ago. Probably of the whaling period and all in remarkable condition.
I am using what is described as White Sassafras. Our Blackheart Sassafras is very loud, and this stuff has much more modest markings and grain, but is so hard as to be brittle ans the grain changes whenever it fancies too.
As a novice this is an educational experience, but enjoyable.
Will send foto when done.
regards Ron B
So what was the issue that was giving me sleepless nights?
"Joining the rails and stiles is not a straightforward matter. Firstly, The grain in the rails is diagonal at the curved ends. A traditional tenon will be too weak and break. Secondly, the frame is slimline by design, but the reality is that the pieces are 30mm wide and 20mm deep. Will the frame be strong and rigid enough to hold up a heavy-ish solid wood panel? What type of hinges will work best?
I decided that the strongest connection would be a loose tenon joint. This would enable the tenon to be made of the same Karri/Jarrah (whatever it is) but with straight-grained pieces"
No expert on the subject but I often use loose tenons with sucess. I use much Jatoba that has wild grain. I choose to use the wild grain that others pass by. I often find it a less than 1/2 the cost of the straighter grain boards. All I can say is that I have never had a failure. No stress tests except normal use.
I have used the Brusso hinges like pictured. (I used the L19S made of stainless steel)... They are very expensive, quality made and very strong. Some info you probably already have. http://www.brusso.com/Product/instructions/install_pivots.pdf
The only issue I could see is the rail depth. 30MM minus 9.5MM mortise depth for the hinge minus the grooving depth for the panels. Will you have enough depth for the wood screws?
I used stainless steel machine screws with stainless captive nuts. The doors I had were made of Jatoba which is very heavy. I did not think that wood screws would be the best choice.
Just my thoughts....
EDIT: Sorry.. For some reason I thought this was a receient post. Oh well....
The only issue I could see is the rail depth. 30MM minus 9.5MM mortise depth for the hinge minus the grooving depth for the panels. Will you have enough depth for the wood screws?
Hi Will
Thanks for raising this. The hinges should not be a problem.
As it happens, the hinges I have (brass Brussos from LV) are 3mm (1/8") thick and the screws are 18mm deep.
Where do you get a mortice depth of 9.5mm from?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Where do you get a mortice depth of 9.5mm from?
My last post "(I used the L19S made of stainless steel)..."
http://www.brusso.com/Product/instructions/install_pivots.pdf
L19 has a thickness of 3/8" (9.5mm)
I guess I just thought you were using the L19 series for some reason. Your pictured hinge looked pretty stout!
I guess that you are using the L37?
I mentioned the machine screws with captive nuts because of the weight of my doors. I forget the wood screw length recommender for the hinges. I did not have enough depth in the wood for the screw length recommended..
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