I was wondering if I could get some input, advice and tips on placement of equipment in my shop. I have a 24′ x 44′ building that is empty and I want to place equipment right the first time. Thanks in advance for all your help.
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Replies
I'm in the process of planning a new workshop as well. I found that this article was useful.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00102.asp
I made a scale drawing of my shop's floor plan on my computer using Visio. It is now very easy to move "tools" and "cabinets" around to see what works best. Of course graph paper with paper cut outs to represent tools is also an effective method for testing layouts. I try to figure in my project work flows, tool working space, finishing, and Dust Collection. I have found that floor space is precious and try to utilize the wall and ceiling as much as possible.
Good luck,
--Rob
Rob's suggestion is a good one. I recently completed a 20 x 35 shop and I used scaled, colored cutouts for each piece of equipment, benches, storage cabinets as well as a few tools I didn't have yet but planned on acquiring fairly soon. I thought I knew what I wanted until I viewed the layout and realized it wouldn't work. This will also help you if you are also designing for the DC system. One item I really didn't adequately consider was the area for wood storage, specifically longer boards. Placement of overhead lights and power drops may also distate placement so those factors should be indicated on the drawing to guide placement.
If you have to have a ww problem, this is a great one to have. Enjoy the process.
Doug
Dalewood,
Drawing your new shop's floor plan to scale, as well as the machinery and furniture (bench, cabinets, etc...), is definitely the first step you should take.
Here are a few more things you should consider as you design. (1) Materials handling - specifically, how will you bring wood into the shop, and how will you get the finished product out? The last thing you want is to find yourself precariously balancing a 10' maple board while trying not to smack it into a machine or project. If you use 4'x8' sheets of plywood, you'll have to consider how they will be moved around the shop. Unlike a long board that can be lifted overhead to avoid an obstacle, the safest way to move a full sheet of ply' is on a dolly or panel cart. There will have to be enough clearance to maneuver a large rigid object. (Thing of having to move a king sized mattress/box spring to an upstairs bedroom, and trying to negotiate going around the corner or the banister!) Leave yourself a predetermined plan on how you'll get your finished pieces out of the shop. Will machinery be in the way, make sure they're on mobile bases.
(2) Plan the shop walls and obstacles. In addition to the bird's eye view of the scale drawing, consider laying out the walls face on. There never seems to be enough storage space, so planning where cabinets and shelving might go will greatly speed up the process.
(3) The electrical and dust collection system are the Achilles heal of the shop. Electrical outlets of the correct amperage and circuit sizes need to be near to the machines that will be plugged into them. (You may have a 50' industrial extension cord, but that doesn't mean that it should be stretched across the floor of the shop!) The same goes for dust collection. Set up the best system that you can afford now. It may seem expensive, but its no contest compared to permanent lung damage down the road.
Have fun! If you have any additional questions, please feel free to ask!
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Thanks to all for the great advice. One thing I need to be considering more is the dust collection system. I am not really up to speed on these as I have never owned one. Any advice on these would be appreciated.
Dalewood,
One of the best places to start regarding dust collection, is with Sandor Nagyszalanczy's book Woodshop Dust Control. You might be able to find this at your local library, but its worthy of purchase as a reference source. There are a multitude of choices when it comes to a dust collection/control system; and range from a small 1/2 hp unit on casters that only attaches to one machine at a time, to a massive multi-horsepower unit that could inhale the dinner napkins off of the table from twenty paces away!
To begin determining what size/type of system you'll need, write up a list of all the power machines that you currently have, and add to the list any machines that you think you might purchase over the next few years. The goal is to set up a dust collection system now that will have the flexibility to be expanded down the line.
Before you start shopping for hardware, do some reading first (i.e. Sandor's book above). If you've never owned a dust collector before, it is easy to become completely overwhelmed by number of different product on the market today. If you take the time to do a little research before you buy, you'll feel much more confident when you step up to start making purchases.
Don't feel that you need to start filling your shop with miles of spiral metal ducting and blast gates. If you only have a few machines and/or have a small shop, a small 1 hp to 1.5 hp unit on casters can be rolled machine to machine. A quick-disconnect is an accessory that fits into the end of the collector's hose, and allows you to just press (friction) fit the end of the hose to a machine's dust port. (It cost $3 - $5.)
If the above description matches your shop situation, I'd recommend taking a look at the 1 hp and 1.5 hp collectors from Penn State Industries - with the 1 micron bags. http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PSI&Product_Code=DC1BXL-1M&Category_Code=DC1
http://www.pennstateindustries.com/
These are rock solid units, that are always highly rated with their combination of value and performance. (I also appreciate the level of service that Penn' gives.)
There are two items that should also have a place in your shop - a decent size fan (a household fan will do), and an ambient air scrubber. The fan is used to gently float away any dust that might have been missed by the collector; or if you're doing anything like hand-sanding where using a collector might prove more difficult. The object is not to produce gale force winds (with the fan) that will send dust all over the shop, but a gentle breeze to keep you from standing in a swirling cloud of wood particles.
The air scrubber is exactly what it sounds like. It is a box with a blower motor inside that draws the air inside the room over a series of filters. A scrubber is rated on how many times in an hour that it can recycle the entire air volume of your shop. (It's based on the square footage and volume of the shop - there are charts in the books.) You can purchase one of these units, or if you want to have fun with a highly useful (and needed) project, build your own. I've built numerous air scrubbers from scratch, including some with remote control switches and timers. If you'd like to go this route, let me know, and I'll give you the step-by-step on how to build your own. (For between $30 - $50, you can build a unit that could go toe-to-to with almost any store bought one!)
Please feel free to send along any questions that you might have.
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
Using the resources given by Dave, compute the size dust collector you'll need, then buy one that's twice as large.
Jeff
Dalewood,
I would suggest a mindset of flexibility when designing your shop and tool placements. I have found that keeping most of my tools on wheels and thus moveable gives a great capacity for making a wide array of projects. However, that also means that I require extra power outlets, more lighting and distinct organization of work areas. Sometimes I roll my big jointer around (to make room for a big furniture assembly job) and find that the beast is in the way of the workbench or tool cabinet. Darn! Someday I will get better about thinking ahead.
sawick
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