If you decide to paint the floor of your shop, this is what you’ll deal with. I’ve crunched everthing (almost) into one half and cleaned the other half. The floor was so clean we had dinner on it 🙂 (Trisodium Phosphate, scrape off old paint, Muriatic Acid (to etch off any phosphor), Ammonia (to nutralize the acid) water. Then I used Ace Hardware Floor polyurethane (white). The first coat is drying now. Next weekend I’ll move everthing to the other end of the shop and repeat (btw I did the concrete walls as well)
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Lucky you!
The floor is one thing, but what is really cool is the mitersaw on a shelf and fold down extension wings - what a great idea. BTW, I visited Dust Maker - good job.
Thanks, It is nice and I can cut a piece 10 feet to the right and 30+ to the left of the saw. - one problem... the wings are not quite level so a long/heavy piece must be clamped at the saw. After the painting is complete I'll be tweaking the wings (with shims etc) so they sit level.Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Dinner consisted of TSP, Muriatic Acid, and Ammonia? And only water to drink? Man, that's hardcore. I always try to have a nice bottle of Caustic Soda whenever we have a fine meal like that. ;-p
Did the muriatic wash cause everything to rust? Sounds like you went a little overboard on surface prep, but I suppose you only want to go through this hassle once!
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
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Actually, on the paint can they recommend a 4:1 mixture of water and Muriatic acid. The big concern is phosphor on the surface of the concrete. It can leech out (I've seen it on my fireplace brick outside) The urethane won't stick to the phosphor. It's unlikely that my shop floor had the same problem but for $5 and an extra 30 minutes...Plus it's cool to hear the acid fissle and see it smoke when you pour it on the floor :-)Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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AB asked: "Did the muriatic wash cause everything to rust?" Seems like there was one nightmare story here at Knots about that happening. Sounds like you escaped??
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
It would if I put it on the tools but those were all behind me. No acid on anything but the floor and the room was well ventilated...
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Actually muriatic will usually rust everything just from being in the general vicinity - you don't have to put it directly on anything. It only takes a tiny amount of the vapor to cause a fine coating of rust. I'm surprised you didn't get any from using it on the floor; maybe the reaction with the concrete neutralized the acid before it could cause a problem. Count yourself lucky!"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
.........what AW said about the vapors. I just have a vague memory of some poor Knots person having rust everywhere after doing his floor. Sounds like you have sufficient ventilation and good technique. I envy you the new floor!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
But what do you do if you want to rebuild the whole shop?
I have a triple garage that needs to be rebuilt, and am thinking about a purpose-built studio, but I have no-where to put all my gear while we pour a new floor and stand up the walls!
I love the idea of a new shop. Hate to think about pulling everythintg to bits and moving it off-site!
0.06% of the world's people are Kiwis
Tough question. I would struggle with that too (I have two benches that I would have to take apart to get out of the shop)...What's the climate like? Could you put stuff outside under plastic?M.
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Here are shots of progress. Everthing is in the north end of the shop and the first coat is down on the south end.And no, I didn't paint myself into a corner. :-)Second coat tomorrow. Then reorganize on Tuesday or Wednesday. It will be nice to get the shop back.Mark
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Malcolm: How about renting a shipping container? They are available here in the states and are used for temporary storage in just such a situation. If I could ever afford to get my shop/garage rebuilt, and boy does it need it, I'd have the same problem ie: where to put all my tools and materials. The building is on the dirt, no foundation and one wall is eaten though and there are bug holes everywhere. KDMKenneth Duke Masters
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December 15 1791
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A container would be the obvious choice ... except, I'd never get one on-site! Down the end of a long drive under low trees!
The rebuild is probably a summer away yet - the southern hemisphere summer of 06/07 is the target. When the time comes I'll take a month off work and clear the shop and make a start on pulling down the existing triple (ish) garage so we can poor a new floor and get the frame up and roof on fairly quickly.
I may be able to store the contents of the workshop under plastic on-site, but it is going to be crowded!
CheersNew Zealand | New Thinking0.06% of the world's people are Kiwis
duke, in Hawaii, 2 containers next to each other 20 feet apart with a truss roof system between them makes for a pretty nice 3 room shop and a fairly cheap one at that..... aloha, mike
<<2 containers next to each other 20 feet apart with a truss roof system >>
Sounds like heaven to me!! Every small earthquake I look to see if my shop is still standing. KDMKenneth Duke Masters
The Bill of Rights
December 15 1791
NRA Endowment Member
LEAA Life Member
CRPA Member
Why oh why do we wait to do the floor until there's a 20-year collection of stuff on top of it... ;-) I figure it's for charecter building.
Only 15 years of stuff in my case. So I'll get a bit less character from it :-)Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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