Shop Fox 1671 Benchtop Mortiser
Hi Everyone,
I just started assembling a used SF 1671 and when I put on the fence, I noticed that is is not square; in other words it isn’t parallel but is slightly skewed (should have taken a pic).
I’m sure this isn’t a defect as there is only one way it can be installed. It’s sort of a rack & pinion design with a clever micro adjuster.
Can anyone explain why it is skewed? Also any advice with regard to setup of these machines will be most appreciated.
This is my first experience with a mortiser. Tonight I hope to give it a run with some test pieces.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Replies
Afternoon Bob...
If I might make a suggestion on the fence being skewed causing it to be un-square to the chisel surface.. at least that is what I'm guessing that you refer too? If so... just how badly is it skewed?
If we are talking about a small amount and I'm guessing that.. as it was square when I took it apart to ship.. reverse the obvious and simply un-loosen the chuck for the chisel and turn the outer square chisel wall to square with the fence! There is no imaginary straight line on earth one component ore other has to be referenced too. As long as they are square to each other.
Unfortunately it isn't a high dollar NASA heat shield plate designed to exact tolerances to the point that absolutely nothing possibly known to man could go wrong. :>)
Option II... build a sturdy box and ship it UPS back to the source at the "source's expense" as they will use it for tall, deep cuts off the end of the bench as it not only has some serious plunge power with those double columns; but a very deep stroke for a "benchie". ha.. ha...
Regards...
Sarge.. john thompson
Sarge,
I don't see it as a major problem and can't see any evidence of physical damage but was wondering if it is skewed for a reason. Is there any adjustment to the "box" that the rod is connected to on the base?
If we are talking about a small amount and I'm guessing that.. as it was square when I took it apart to ship.. reverse the obvious and simply un-loosen the chuck for the chisel and turn the outer square chisel wall to square with the fence!
There is what I would consider a significant amount, perhaps +1" on its length. The connecting rod is straight and the fence is 90° to the rod. Could it be the box that the rod slides through b out of alignment? I can't imagine that it got damaged in shipment as it was well packaged and this piece is pretty darn heavy/strong. Can you call me?
Regards,
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Afternoon Bob...
+ 1".... That isn't right by any means. The base of the SF (the whole base will swivel to move the head off to the side for off-table cuts) got twisted with the gentle care given by the shipper. That's why the box was made so sturdy as I see it every day and UPS is careful compared to truck friegh. ha.. ha...
Call you now as I took the day off to repair some over-head sheet rock by order of the First Lady. :>)
Regards...
Sarge.. john thompson
Sarge,
As Inspector Clouseau might have said, "The problem is sol ved."
Your assessment of the problem is/was dead on the money. I loosened the bolts, realigned the table/fence perpendicular to the head and retightened them tighter than a bulls butt during fly season.
Oh, and I also aligned the chisel to be square with the fence per the instructions.
Installing the chisel was relatively straightforward; with the head held down just a tad I inserted the chisel first and tightened the set screw. I then adjusted the drill bit so that about 1/16" extends below the bottom of the chisel and tightend the chuck through the windows.
Made some test cuts in some 2/4 pine, voila! Life is good @ KiddervilleAcres.
And by the way, NO SCREAMING BIT! Sounds like a hummingbird at the feeder as opposed to a flock of Blue Jays at sunrise!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Morning Bob...
Your experience with the mis-aligned guide rod should give you a better understanding of how all the components work together to seek and end result. Maybe a good thing in hind-sight!
The more I fool with various bits and mortisers, the closer I come to thinking that all the chisels are relatively equal in quality. The only one I have seen personally that appeared a step beyond was made by Forest City in N.C. for industry and about $60 a pop. Then the shank length would have to be cut to get it on a "benchie".
But.. each make seems to have their own "bulls-eye" point of bit lead distance to avoid metal to metal contact. The bit has to be as large as the chisel as it does the majority of work. Finding that lead distance is the key, IMO.
And.. in closing, let me emphasize that honing the chisel alone doesn't go the whole distance required. Again.. the chisel only slices a square side after the bit has lead the dance step and done the real task of boring and excavating the hole. So.. maintaining a sharp drill bit is just as important as maintaining a sharp chisel.
Enjoy the Fox...
Sarge.. john thompson
chisel value / dollar: there was an article in woodworking magazine that basically said the same thing. i'll need to find the article that suggests a ~$15 chisel as the best.
i have the same shop fox 1671 and it screams. definately not a hummingbird!
Evening BWW..
Planesaw told me about the article, but I can't find the Spring issue on the stand. I could down-load the article from their site, well.. if I knew how to down-load. Looks like a priority for the First Lady. ha.. ha...
I couldn't tell if the SF screamed or not as I lost about 30% hearing in VN.. but it did cut a bunch of mortises without causing any fuss. You might try moving the bit a tad further forward to clear the chisel and be sure to hone both.
Regards...
Sarge.. john thompson
Sarge,
I think you can go to the Woodworking site and it will tell you what stores carry the mag in print. But you can pay them on line and download the digitial, pay a little more and download the digital, plus they'll ship you the paper copy.
Alan - planesaw
Evening Alan...
The part about ship me the copy sounds right up my alley as my system administrator holds an expensive "dinner request" over my head with the down-load thing as it is most definitely not my forte. :>)
Thanks again for the information as I have searched the book stores and Box stores and they have either been sold or pulled at this point.
Regards...
Sarge.. john thompson
bww,
I'm not sure why yours creams being totally new to mortice machines, but as Sarge said, But.. each make seems to have their own "bulls-eye" point of bit lead distance to avoid metal to metal contact. The bit has to be as large as the chisel as it does the majority of work. Finding that lead distance is the key, IMO. I have the drill set ~ 1/16" past the end of the chisel and I can use the machine without hearing protection - no problemo. He just might be on to something?
May be just BS luck or in my case a WA guess?
Would be VERY interested if anyone can find info. regarding additional/extra chisels/bits that will fit the 1671.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hi Bob,I'm definately new to mortisign and relatiely inexperienced w/ ww'ing period. I picked up my shop fox used as well. I've only played w/ a few times and then we had our 1st child ... a lot of tools collecting dust in the basement.I did find the article from woodworking magazine, spring 07.Their recomendations are below. The lower priced (woodcraft & hartville) needed sharpening/tuning to make useful. Worth mentioning that not all chisels fit the SF because the SF needs a longer bit. I learned this when I bought a cheapo delta bit from amazon and it wasn't long enough.woodcraft #144010
hartville tool #54022
lee valley #04j11.20
guildcraft #28054
bww,
Very much appreciated. Will check them out, especially the LV lead.
Gotta like their stuff.
Thanks again,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
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