Replies

1. 
   davcefai | Jan 09, 2010 01:42am | #1

   The blade on a plane does not extend to the complete edge of the sole. There's that little bit connecting the front and back.

   When you make the shooting board, the first time you run the plane down the runway it will start to plane away the edge of the board - until you have planed a litle rebate the depth of the blade protusion.

   At this point the board is complete. The plane cannot take away any more material from the board.

   Since you're usually planing end grain you will have a very shallow plane setting. If at some time you set up for a deeper cut then you will obviously take off more material until the plane bottoms out again. The problem with this is that when you revert to a shallower cut the support for the workpiece will not be as good and you could get some tearout.

   In this case use a rebate plane to reshape the edge of the board.

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 09, 2010 03:46pm | #4

   Then it would seem that you keep a plane and a shooting board together as a set? Then when the plane needs resharpening can you set it up to the same spot or what?

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 09, 2010 06:41pm | #5

   I use a dedicated miter plane, the #9, with my shooting board. It is set for a very, very fine cut, and after sharpening, it's quite easy to reset it to the same fine cut. It won't be an issue for you.

   Using shooting boards for miters, for squaring crosscuts, and even for squaring edges of boards for joinery is an excellent way to improve your overall joinery compared to doing it straight from the saw. As long as your shooting boards are accurate, your saw (such as a compound miter saw, for example) can be off by a smidge, and the shooting board and plane will make up for it.

   Jeff

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 11, 2010 12:51pm | #17

   Found a Stanley #9 plane on ebay -- for a paltry $475! I should stock up now.

   Sometimes I think it would be worth it to make a time machine, go back, get the Real Stuff, then pop back. My plans for this are on the same shelf as Mr. Fusion. Getting increasingly tough to find any Delorians too.

2. 
   davcefai | Jan 10, 2010 12:54am | #6

   Ideally yes. You can set up a plane for endgrain - really fine cut. You will still have to make adjustments depending on the wood you are working but there is some tolerance in the system.

   Ensure that the side and sole of the plane are exactly at 90 deg, lap it if necessary. Take a square with you to the next flea-market or garage sale. I have a reconditioned #3 which I dedicate to end grain, mostly on the shooting board.

   Once you set yourself up with a shooting board and dedicated plane you will wonder how you got by without!

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 10, 2010 01:12am | #7

   This is another issue I have -- thinking about shooting boards: Isn't square for the iron plane body unnecessary? All I need do is bump the lateral adjuster and POW! my shooting board just went out of alignment.

   So if the lateral adjuster controls the 90, why do I need a plane body that is exactly 90?

1. 
   Frank Vucolo | Jan 10, 2010 09:11am | #9

   TK,

   The lateral adjuster will skew the iron, but it will remain perpendicular to the side of the plane. Think of the iron gutting through the blade like a guillotine or like a skew rabbet plane.

   Frank

2. 
   Handrubbed | Jan 10, 2010 01:05pm | #10

   Think about that statement again. The lateral adjuster does make the blade cut deeper one one side if you skew it, which would counter the 90 degree setting. Perpendicular is what you want, but you have to set it there. Setting the lateral adjuster at neutral is just as important when shooting as it is when smoothing with the same plane. That is why true shooting planes have no lateral adjuster, like the No.9. Test cuts are the way to find if you are getting truly 90 degree results.

3. 
   Frank Vucolo | Jan 11, 2010 09:51am | #16

   Handrubbed,

   You are, of course, absolutely correct. I got to thinking, heck, that won't ruin your shooting board and didn't think that response through before engaging my typing fingers.

   I stand corrected.

   Thanks,

   Frank

2. 
   Frank Vucolo | Jan 09, 2010 01:48am | #2

   I think it's because the
   I think it's because the plane iron doesn't go all the way to the edge of the plane. So, when you break in a new shooting board it actually does get cut until the sole of the plane alongside the iron bottoms out. Now as you go along from there,the side of the plane rides the base, that little ledge rides on the rail and the iron runs free in that little gap of a few thou, until it approaches the part you are working on and takes a shaveing (woosh.)

   I'm sure that's not very clear. Hard to explain. But, imagine if you were using a rabbet plane. Then the shooting board would not work as there would be nothing to prevent the plane iron from repeatedly trimming the board.

   At least I think that's why it works.

   What I don't understand is how, when you order a chocolate dipped soft serve cone, they can turn that thing upside down, stick it in hot chocolate and not have it fall off. Then, one false move while you're eating and it's all over the place!

   Frank

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 09, 2010 01:10pm | #3

   The other two guys have it nailed. Just don't try using a rabbetting or shoulder plane, both of which have blades as wide as the plane's sole.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 10, 2010 05:46am | #8

   Do not feel bad about about your question. I thought the same along time ago.

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 10, 2010 07:03pm | #11

   So then Shooting Board "Rules" are as follows:

   1. Use of a regular plane is required, best to have a dedicated plane for the Board, and if you really get carried away, use the Stanley #9 specifically designed for shooting boards.

   2. Be careful not to touch the Lateral Adjuster once 90 has been established. (Good luck on that one)

   3. When in doubt (like after sharpening the plane blade) one must make test cuts and tweak the lateral adjuster to get a precise 90.

   4. Initially, must use the plane to plane away the Shooting Board to get the lil groove in there to keep the setup from eating itself. Apparently the cross-piece is NOT done this way, rather it can be adjusted.

   Is that about it?

1. 
   davcefai | Jan 11, 2010 12:47am | #12

   If you start with a properly adjusted plane then, if the plane is properly adjusted every time you use it tou'll be OK.

   If you're looking for micrometric accuracy you're in the wrong hobby! :-)

   When you make the cross piece cut slots for the screws so that you can adjust it sideways. However you *can*, probably should, include it in the "planing away yhe lil groove" stage.

   One more thing: Please do not rename your threads. I was unable to get here from the notification email as the link did not work.

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 11, 2010 04:41am | #14

   On the accuracy -- I'm afraid
   On the accuracy -- I'm afraid I've been viewing too many videos by David Charlesworth and Rob Cosman! Yup, I want the accuracy. Well, ok, to a point.

   So sorry about renaming the thread! I thought it would add that I learned, but obviously it had bad vibes for others.

   I'll never do that again.

5. 
   derekcohen | Jan 11, 2010 04:20am | #13

   I was hoping to point you to an article I have at FWW, but I can't find it now (with the changes), so I will instead point you to my website.

   Here is an extract ...

   A common question is whether the plane will cut away and destroy the side of the runway when shooting.

   Yes and no. Yes, the plane will remove part of the side during this step. And no, this will not destroy the shooting board. It will, instead, complete an important constructional requirement. This is the process of “running in”.

   If you look carefully at the sole of your plane you will take note that the blade does not run across the full width but ends about 1/8" from the sides. When you run the plane down the runway for the first time, you remove a shaving depth from the side. This leaves behind a little ledge or lip. This lip thereafter becomes the combined fence and depth stop for the plane. The blade runs above this fence, and alongside the runway wall. If your blade does run across the full width, such as with a rabbet or shoulder plane, find another as these cannot leave the important lip and will keeping slicing away the side fence of the runway.

   View Image

   Be careful - you do not want to set your plane for too deep a cut when you take the first cut that creates the side fence.

   The depth of the fence also determines how far from the side of the table the plane rides. Another way of looking at this is that it sets the depth of cut for future times since you slide the edge of the board against the sole of the plane each time you plane an edge.

   So take it slowly when you take your first shavings. Work up to the thickness you want to use.

   Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4.html

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 11, 2010 04:43am | #15

   Thanks so much. Wow, cannot possibly be clearer with your graphics. Thanks!

   No one is biting on the lateral adjuster thoughts. I guess it's just part of the whole accuracy thing.

1. 
   davcefai | Jan 11, 2010 01:17pm | #18

   Biting on the lateral adjuster thoughts.

   Yes, it can be done but it simply adds to the aggro. If you have everything set up square then every time you remove the iron to hone it - which will be often 'cos endgrain is a tough duty, then when you reassemble the plane you simply have to square up the blade.

   The other way will involve a lot of test cuts to establish the skew angle. Bear in mind that when you replace the iron after honing the, lateral adjuster never seems to end up in the same position when the blade is square.

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 12, 2010 02:11am | #20

   Ah, I see that now. So there is an advantage in having a true 90 from plane bottom to side. Mr. Lie-Nielsen can breath easier. For those not so fortunate as to own planes that are truely 90, I guess a little LA fiddling will have to do.

   Thinking Out Loud: If you own like a regular old Stanley plane couldn't you adjust your skew as you suggest, then nudge the LA a skosh if your plane body is known to be off? Verified by test cuts.

   I could also choose a plane (I have a bunch of old ones that are in the process of being fixed up) that seems to work best for shooting board work.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 11, 2010 08:53pm | #19

   Derek..

   Did you not once post a 'sloped' 'shooting board'? I had a problem with your pictures then but I recall you posted back and the plane gives a angled blade attack and it works without changing the blade angle. Works for me!

1. 
   tkarlmann | Jan 12, 2010 02:13am | #21

   Hmm, if I understand you correctly, a sloped shooting board may require a true 90 plane body? Ouch, my brain hurts now.

6. 
   davcefai | Jan 12, 2010 03:56am | #22

   I believe that you are referring to Derek's mitre shooting boards where the work is presented to the plane at 45 deg. You still need the plane at 90 deg to the shooting board! Unless you want 45.2 deg :-)

1. 
   DonStephan | Jan 12, 2010 09:00am | #23

   As I understand it, a sloped or ramped shooting board is tapered slightly from front to back. It still is used to make the end perpendicular to the sides and edges, but in effect slightly skew the plane as it travels along the end of the board.

1. 
   davcefai | Jan 12, 2010 12:56pm | #24

   Not quite. A sloped or ramped board holds the piece at a slight angle (from front to back) so that you use more of the plane iron when shooting. It evens the wear and extends the life of the edge. There is also less of a shock when the iron impacts the wood

   Then you have mitre shooting boards which hold the piece at 45 deg to the sole of the plane so that you are planing a mitre.