Hi, I think most readers of this forum know what a shooting board is for. I’m wondering if one could be configured to “shoot” the long edges to get them parallel. Has anyone ever tried this?
I think the fence would need to longer (duh 😉 ) and the step where the plane runs would have to be absolutley parallel to the fence. Also, the fence would need to be adjustable to accomodate boards of different width.
I’d appreciate any comments or suggestions
best,
Tom in NC
Replies
For narrow widths, i think you're just a lot better off planing one jointed edge and then using that as a reference for a marking gauge.
Same for wider, except the marking will need to be done either by striking a line off of two points or by using a panel gauge.
I have shot long grain several times before, but always when I'm fitting something tight, never necessarily for parallelism.
Hi Tom
You would be better off using a panel gauge to mark the parallel side, and then plane to this line.
Indeed there are long shooting boards available, but these are used to ensure a square edge, not a parallel edge.
See: http://www.michealconnorwoodwork.com.au/workbenchesaccessories.htm
Regards from Perth
Derek
If you're trying to work without power equipment, the panel gauge suggestion seems on target.
Incorporating adjustability in a shooting board fence would seem to create alignment issues. When I need accurately parallel edges, I rip on the tablesaw about 1/16" oversize, set up a featherboard and make another pass to remove the extra sixteenth. Then carefully joint the edge.
As another option, which I haven't tried, if the board has some minimum width (3/4" enough?) you could stand on edge and make a light pass through a planer.
Tom,
I asked the question a few months ago about a long shooting board. Derek told me about Micheal Connor, and I wrote to him and he is a very nice guy and a good worker. You can see photos on his website.
However I was looking to shoot a straight edge, not looking to a shooting board to make one edge parallel to the other - that's not what shooting boards do.
You can find a bunch of info which is relevant to the hand tool question by looking up the methods that folks have generated to cut a long straight edge with a router and a separate straightedge (fence). Obviously it is up to you, if you want your second edge to be parallel to the first, to set the straightedge (fence) up appropriately.
As has already been said, the traditional handtool method of getting a parallel long edge is to use a panel gauge. Mark it, cut it with a saw, leaving enough so that you can plane it smooth and straight.
I hope this helps.
Good luck.
Mel
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