Hello everyone,
Things are a little slow for me right now, so I started making some stools/benches in my shop. Probably for Christmas gifts or to sell at the local Consignment Store.
Three are out of Pine slab wood, three are out of 9/4 Walnut.
My normal finish schedule is to sand to 150 to 220 grit (depending on wood specie and final finish), spit coat of shellac (probably a 1 lb. cut) with additional coats to end grain, stain,spit coat,final finish(shellac, varnish, poly, etc. etc.), with sanding and cleaning in between each process.
I like using the spit coat because, it’s easy, solves the blotchness/end grain problem, brightens the wood grain,and seals off the individual processes from one another.
I have heard of using a Linseed Oil /Turpentine spit coat and I thought I would give it a try. Didn’t do much on the Pine. Highlighted the grain, a little, nice honey color. Did not raise the grain. WOW, on the Walnut it looked great! On one particular bench that had a lot of crotch grain to it, I sanded to 320 grit and it had a 3-D effect. It did darken the Walnut not in a bad way, just a nice warm ,rich, old hand-rubbed look.
I’m also going to try rubbing some artists colors into the grain for more interest.
What’s your favorite techniques or stories about something working out for the good instead of disaster.
Replies
Oil-most often linseed oil--sometimes pure tung oil--is one of the preferred initial treatments for dark woods like walnut and cherry. The amber in the oil "pop's" the grain. I follow it with an amber shellac if the walnut has be subjected to steam treatment during drying. I final coat with a clear lacquer or a non-poly varnish because of it's clarity.
I too was thinking of using the amber shellac as the finish coat . But I was also thinking of just doing a paste wax or maybe shellac the legs and underside, rub-out, and then paste wax the whole thing. I think the illusion of depth may fade over time and the paste wax will help rejuvinate, plus there is nothing like that feeling of waxed wood.
DAVE
Dave, wax is not a finish. It provides no water or water vapor protection, no abrasion resistance and no durability. You can certainly use it on top of a real finish but not as a stand alone finish. Howie.........
Hey Howard,
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking about what you said, about applying a real finish.Why is that done? I guess it offers the maker/buyer a sense of security,albeit minimal. If you put any kind of a wood product in an environment that it does not belong,no kind of finish will protect it for long. We put a finish on wood so the grain doesn't raise and it continues to feel smooth.A finish will only slow down movement not stop it. A finish does seal the wood some what and that makes it easier to clean, like kitchen cabinets;or dust,like a dining room table. But we don't put anything on solid maple tops or cutting boards(other than oil).
I think the finish has little to do with protection, something to do with maintenance,and everything to do with the look. The finish many times is just as important as the wood, the color, the design,the style,etc,etc. Sometimes more important,take a simple table with a French Polish Finish. You don't say,"WOW,is that table protected!".
The simple stool I'm making has a beautiful piece of wood for the top. Nothing should take away from it.I'm going to shellac the legs and underside(for dusting purposes only),butt the seat will be polished by by rear ends.
My back ground is trim work and cabinet/furniture making.I never did much finishing,But was always intrigued by the process. It almost seemed like magic the way apiece is transformed once the finish is put on(black magic, if it's done poorly).It wasn't until I tried to finish some of my own work that I understood the skill and artistry required for this craft.An "ol timer" painter taught me a little about finishes and I experimented a little. But I Just can't seem to achieve the effect I want. That why I was so excited When I tried the linseed oil/turpentine mixture.
What do you think? What's your background? How do I get the look I want?
Thanks
DAVE
you've hit on my secret finishing formula for Pine "antique" reproductions.
Boiled Linseed Oil, or a Watco Danish Oil, followed by 1 spit coat (1lb) and 1 coat amber shellac (2-3lb). Topcoat with a lacquer or polyurethane coat or two, and you have a bulletproof finish that has colour and warmth.
Works like a dream on cherry or figured maple as well. I'm starting to experiment with waterbased dyes to pop the figure on the maple now.
The older I get, the better I was....
When you use the BLO do you cut it with Turpentine or thinner? What ratio?
I used some artists colors cut with thinner, added some Japan dryer and rubbed into pores after a spit coat, interesting effect.
DAVE
No cut. As is.
I can get the oil, 2 coats of shellac, 2 coats of WB poly, and wax topcoat done in a day.
The older I get, the better I was....
>> I can get the oil, 2 coats of shellac, 2 coats of WB poly, and wax topcoat done in a day
I think you have been very lucky. BLO should be allowed to dry a couple of days before overcoating. Hopefully the shellac is dewaxed or you might expect adhesion problems with your waterborne finish. And, wax should not be applied until the waterborne has fully cured which can take a couple of weeks.Howie.........
Hi,
What is a spit coat? Just curious.
Ken
It's a very thin coat of shellac. Usually a 1lb. cut or less. I just save the alcohol from cleaning my brush and what ever lb./cut I'm using and use that for a "spit coat" the next time.
DPR9
my new favorite for cherry is from a tip in a magazine. Heat up tung or BLO and add chunks of wax that melt in the hot oil. THe mixture goes on great and gives a nice warm feel with highlighted grain. I've done a few small objects that way without a protective finish, but probaly use shellac for something needing protection.
Stantheman, and others,
Heating finishes, especially to melt various waxes has been around a long time. Sam Maloof has his own special recipe. I don't think the specifics of such recipes are all that important, but here's my advice, bolstered by Sam himself.
Be VERY careful heating any solvent-based material. NEVER, NEVER do this over an open flame. Use a double boiler arrangement, and do it outside, if possible. Better yet, heat a pot of water to boiling, take it off the stove, turn off the flame and place the container of finishing mixture in the hot water.
Rich
Edited 12/9/2005 2:37 pm ET by Rich14
how do you determine the mix ratios to get from 3# to 2# to your 1# then to a spit version?
The simple way is to read the labels. The Zinsser cans I have seen recently have a little table showing the cuts. Seal Coat comes as 2lb. cut. To get that to 1 lb. cut mix three parts alcohol to 2 parts of Seal Coat. These mixes are not at all critical. Spit coats are anywhere from 1 lb. cut on down. Just remember what you did if you think you want to repeat the finish schedule in the future.
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