I am making a vanity out of rift white oak. The finish is going to be a white was stain and I would like to use shellac for the top coat. Will this be a problem in a high moisture area.
Thanks Dave
I am making a vanity out of rift white oak. The finish is going to be a white was stain and I would like to use shellac for the top coat. Will this be a problem in a high moisture area.
Thanks Dave
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Bad choice. Lot's of products used in a bathroom have alcohol in them - colognes, after shaves, perfumes, antiseptics, etc. Alcohol will wreck a shellac finish.
I'd use a varnish.
Dave,
I agree that shellac isn't a good choice. If you spray, then a water-clear, non-yellowing poly like Target Coatings super clear poly would be a good choice. The water-clear, non-yellowing aspect of the finish will retain the color of the whitewash stain now and later.
If you're brushing or wiping the finish, use as lightly colored a varnish/poly you can. Varnishes based on soya or safflower oils are the lightest; the new McCloskeys Heirloom varnish or Pratt & Lambert #38 are a couple examples. Varnishes based on linseed oil or tung oil and phenolic resins will impart a yellow/amber color to the pickled stain.
There's a comparison of the properties of different finishes at this link - Selecting a Finish - that shows the durability characteristics of the various finishes. In the bath and kitchen, it's best to use a durable finish.
Paul
Paul,
Thanks for the info. I may also try Deft brushing lacquer. I've used it before and I've had good results. I just like the ease and great look of shellac. But I guess I'll have to save it for another project. Thanks again
Dave
Dave,
Glad to help. :) I like lacquer a lot myself but I'd be inclined to use a more durable finish in the bathroom (or kitchen). Lacquer is more durable than shellac, but varnish is more durable than lacquer. Water and/or water vapor (hot shower) will damage lacquer a lot quicker than varnish. Just a thought.;)
Paul
Hi Paul,
Eariler in this thread you suggested a water-based top-coat if one was equipped to spray it. How about as a brush-on? I've used the brush on water based stuff a few times and have been happy with it. Is the high-moisture content atmosphere of a bathroom something that would change the properties of the W.B. stuff if you brush it? I'm asking because I too am finishing up a bathroom remodel and am looking for a good top-coat for a trestle-like table vanity that I'm making for it. Thanks much!
Erich
Erich,
It depends on the product you're using. Some waterborne finishes are not affected by standing water and some are.
The poly I mentioned earlier is a lot easier to spray than apply by hand, but the brushable waterborne varnish that Target Coatings has is a durable finish that will hold up in the environment. I don't know about other brands. Check with the manufacturer just to be safe.
Paul
My Website
Paul,
Thanks for the clarification. The countertop will be concrete anyway, so I'm not terribly worried about "standing" water so to speak. The trestle frame for the countertop though will be wood and I was worried about that and its ability to handle the vapor exposure and small splashes it will undoubtedly receive. Thanks again very much!
Erich
Glad to help! ;)Paul
My Website
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled