Replies

1. 
   Danford_C_ | Oct 02, 2002 04:45pm | #1

   Ray,

   Are they sharp enough to slice the end grain of a pine board?

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
1. 
   teachrray | Oct 02, 2002 06:57pm | #2

   yes

2. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 02, 2002 08:36pm | #3

   Ray,

   It could be the stones are leaving residue on the chisel - I sometimes get that when I use buffing compounds.  As long as they are sharp, I wouldn't worry about it.

   Jeff

3. 
   efarmer4 | Oct 02, 2002 08:44pm | #4

   Are you sure you didn't contaminate the finer stones with the silicon carbide grit slurry? Did the change occur right after you flattened them? Or did you flatten them to correct the problem? You can cross contaminate the stones if you don't clean the tool real well in-between stones. Are the stone surfaces clean?

   Edward

1. 
   teachrray | Oct 02, 2002 09:46pm | #5

   I flatened them to try to correct the problem. I rinsed the silcon carbide paper, but perhaps not very well. Assuming that is the problem what do you suggest I do to correct the problem? Should I reflaten the stones? Ant ideas?

4. 
   teachrray | Oct 03, 2002 02:50pm | #6

   Thanks for the suggestion.

5. 
   mgsteve | Oct 04, 2002 10:38pm | #7

   I've never used sandpaper for sharpening although I have read articles about it.  What grits do you use?  I've been pleased with the waterstaones because they cut so fast.  You just need to keep them flat.

1. 
   Elcoholic | Oct 04, 2002 10:49pm | #8

   60, 100, 120 on the rough side of my glass and 150, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1500, 2000 on the other.  I only use the rough side for new or badly chipped blades.  I run through each grit for 30 seconds using a Veritas honing guide.  I touch-up a 2 degree micro bevel at 1500 and 2000.  BTW I use it dry and use compressed air between grits.  John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

2. 
   billballeza | Oct 04, 2002 11:43pm | #9

   Steve, as a matter of possible interest to you, I just ordered a video called "Sandpaper Sharpening" by Michael Dunbar from Taunton Press. You can find it by doing a search on the Home page. The cost is 11.95 and the promotional copy says you can use five grits to get a razor sharp edge.

   Bill

6. 
   LarryPile | Oct 05, 2002 08:08pm | #10

   Hi Ray,

   I also used Japanese water stones and also have tried the sandpaper or "Scary Sharp" methods....until I discovered the two-sided DMT diamond stones....the best IMHO!  You don't have to flatten them, they don't wear out and they don't require soaking in water..and subsequently don't freeze in the winter.  I'm a huge fan of sharpening my chisels EVERY time I use them.  That way, once I get them sharp, it just takes 20-30 seconds of "touch up" to keep them sharp.  The planes don't get the same treatment....takes too long.

   With both methods, however, I've found that you need to strop the chisel in order to get that shiny finish we all love.

   Don't bother buying a strop from a catalogue or whatever...  Find a piece of leather, glue it to a flat piece of maple or other reasonably hard wood and get some green polishing compound....Lee Valley and most others sell it.

   After you've got the chisels sharp and you can feel the burr, strop each side of the chisel 20 times (per side with green compound).  You'll find it cuts a tiny bit better and also has that nice shiny finish.

   Good luck!

   lp