Replies

1. 
   philip_r | Dec 22, 2006 11:01pm | #1

   First, let me say that I have a Tormek.  Do not let the hollow grind impact your purchase - as it is common practice to hollow-grind even if you use water stones or the scary sharp method.  Here is my advice - if you are looking to purchase a sharpening system - get one that will do everything you need it to do.  Both are expensive machines and will do the basic job.  

   Tormek will sharpen almost anything out there (download their manual from Sharptoolsusa.com).  But everything requires a jig and the machine, with all the jigs, can reach $900.00+.  You'll likely still have to flatten the backs of new cutting tools and  still use some other method for touch-ups.  Oh, and it sucks when you have short chisels because they don't go in the standard jig.  

   The Veritas is great for chisels and plane irons but it's capabilities are limited when it comes to turning and carving tools.  The system doesn't have to be broken-down like the Tormek (no water) so it is always at the ready for touch-ups.

   Either way, you'll end up with sharp tools.

1. 
   rwjiudice | Dec 23, 2006 03:42am | #2

   Any preferences or suggestions for sharpening kitchen / steak knives???

   SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) has a thing about dull knives and it seems I spend more time sharpening those than any of my tools. Any experience doing those?

   Thanks, Dick J

1. 
   SBerruezo | Dec 23, 2006 04:08am | #3

   I bought a Hunter Honer a while back...sharpen all my knives with it.  http://hunterhoner.com/ 

   Not a glamourous gadget, but pretty effective...  Also have one of those diamond sword things with the knives for touchups. 

2. 
   Rich14 | Dec 24, 2006 02:04am | #6

   rw, Sharpening kitchen knives is quite a bit different from sharpening wood cutting tools. Despite the fact that one can learn to sharpen and hone kitchen knives to a mirror polish, don't do it. The most crude sharpening stones are the best. The kind that you draw the knife through and the angled stones sharpen both sides of the blade at once. I have a little rolling device that does the same thing, but does only one side of the blade at a time. Knives for cutting meat and vegetables cut those materials much better with all the coarse serations of a coarse stone left almost intact. Those serrations have a little tearing action which is desireable. It's ok to touch up a knife with one of those ceramic rod or steel burnishing rods between using the stone. But a few passes over the typical kitchen sharpening gizmo will allow your knife to cut steak or fowl or a ripe tomato, almost with just the weight of the blade and a little back and forth motion. Rich

3. 
   dherzig | Dec 25, 2006 05:10am | #8

   I have all of the usual things in the shop for sharpening, but I bought the Chef's Sharpener for the kitchen. It is motor operated and the slots for the knives are fixed in regards to the flat side of the enclosed diamond wheels. There are three grades, but once the initial bevel is set or there are major nicks, then only the medium and finest are used.  I have taken to run a knife through these each time I pick it up. It is wonderful to have it so handy and what a difference in how the knoves cut.

4. 
   MikeHennessy | Dec 26, 2006 03:52pm | #12

   Kitchen knives are not plane blades or chisels and probably should not be sharpened as such. In the kitchen, as opposed to in the shop, a bit of roughness, or "tooth" on most blades is a GOOD thing. Also, kitchen knives will not stay sharp past a few uses, since the edges are constantly subject to various kinds of abuse. What I do is keep a coarse DMT slip in the drawer by the sink and run it along both sides of the blade a few swipes before use. Pretty easy, once you get the hang of it. Here's a link to a double-sided one:

   http://tinyurl.com/y82y7hMike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

5. 
   pins | Dec 28, 2006 10:50pm | #15

   I bought a Presto 'eversharp' from Amazon for about $30 if memory serves and it does a very nice job on kitchen knives, most of mine are Henckels and I'm very careful with them.The machine has both right and left slots for course and fine honing and I take a pass or two on a steel to finish, use the steel as a touch-up until they need the machine again.pins

   Edited 12/28/2006 2:51 pm ET by pins

6. 
   RonInOttawa | Dec 30, 2006 06:24am | #20

   I've been using my 1" x 42" belt sander to sharpen the kitchen knives for the past several years. I use the 5-micron belts from Lee Valley and do not run it against a backing plate. It takes just one pass down each side of the blade to put just enough tooth of the knives to pass the paper cutting test and they work well for everything from tomatoes to meat.For my pocket knives, I put on a 1" leather belt charged with green honing compound and put a mirror polish on each blade in about 10 seconds. A great tool for a lazy guy like me!

2. 
   dtraversi | Dec 23, 2006 04:22am | #4

   Hey 3putt-

   I've had a Tormek for years- It is an expensive tool when you get all the bells and whistles... but to me it falls into the catagory of "Last tool you'll ever buy".
   It sharpens darn near anything- hollow grind, micro bevels, secondary bevels and all repeatable.

   My wifes kitchen knives are sharper than the day we bought them as are all of my chisels, plane irons and turning tools.

   I used to dread the day set aside to sharpening the pile of tools that had lost the edge- now.. add water- push the power button- sharpen and strop.

   Just my ¢2

   Dave

3. 
   frenchy | Dec 24, 2006 01:45am | #5

   ThreeputJoe,

     I have a Tormex.  had it for going on 5 years now.. I need it for curved gouges and chisels nothing else i've found works as well..on round lathe tools

     Except!

        the scary sharp method..

     I read about the scary sharp method shortly after I bought the Tormex.

    Then Fine woodworking did an article about sharpening and had pictures of each edge under an electron microscope.

      If you look at the edge of a Tomex you'll note the edge appears to be burnuished and slightly rolled over.  while the edge of the scary sharp method  were exactly as a cutting edge should be..

    I still use my Tormex on tools once in a while But I use the scary sharp method all of the time.. A cutting edge done with the scary sharp method seems to cut 5 times better thqn the best edge you can get fron a Tormex..

    MY Tormex cost me $800 back then with all of the jigs etc..  the scary sharp cost me $4.00  (four bucks)   To keep things clean and reuse the sand paper I keep everything in a sealed bag glass and all of the sandpaper sheets plus the guide blocks that I use.   I can retouch a plane Iron in about 2 minutes including set up and take down time. 

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Dec 26, 2006 10:35pm | #13

   Frenchy,

   Explain a little more as to why you keep your scarey sharp supplies in a plastic bag.

   Thanks,

   Alan - planesaw

1. 
   frenchy | Dec 29, 2006 10:10pm | #17

   Planesaw,

   I keep all my scary sharp stuff in a big zip lock bag because I like to keep everything clean and free of grit.   The oil on the sandpaper quickly attracts dirst and grit. Plus everything is handy that way. Besides I keep the scary sharp baggie in the stand for the Tormex that way I can claim to be organized. all the sharpening stuff together <G>

    Just to review the scary sharp system consists of various grades of wet or dry sand paper a sheet of glass(I have a slightly thicker one but any glass will do)  and some oil. I oil maybe once a year and put a sheet of whatever grit paper I feel I need to start with and work my way up to whatever sharpness I feel is called for.. I don't always go to 4000 grit on every job.. don't always start with 320 on every job..

1. 
   alanplanesaw | Dec 29, 2006 11:14pm | #18

   Thanks.  I thought cleanliness was the reason, but just wanted to make sure.

   And, yes, I like the scarey sharp method.  I use a Tormek when I am starting renovations on an old plane or chisel, but then I finish up with sandpaper on glass.

   Happy new year,

   Alan - planesaw

4. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 24, 2006 06:22am | #7

   We have several bench grinders and Tormek machines at school, and we test-drove a LapSharp for a few semesters.

   I own a bench grinder and a lapidary wheel, as well as sandpaper glued to glass (the so-called Scary Sharp system), several stones, including oilstones, diamonds, waterstones, and ceramics, slips...

   In my experience, more elbow grease is expended flattening the backs of tools that in shaping and honing their bevels. Although it's quite expensive, the best machine I've found for flattening the backs of chisels and plane irons and chisels, so far, is the LapSharp.

   With a "flattening machine" like the Lap Sharp, a bench grinder (outfited with a Oneway jig to sharpen turning tools), a lapidary wheel, a few well-chosen stones, and a few files, I could quickly and happily sharpen all of my tools. The Tormek works very well, but I consider it a luxury item, not a necessity.

   YMMV,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   frenchy | Dec 29, 2006 10:01pm | #16

   jazzdog,

     Why would you glue the sandpaper to glass?

      When I oil the sandpaper I find that it sticks nicely and I don't worry about the lumbs and bumps of uneven glue drying..

    Once the sandpaper is oiled, I put it in a sealed plastic bag (zip lock) and pull it out and slap it back on the glass without the need for further oiling.  Every year or so I grab a little oil and spread it on the paper if it seems to be getting a bit dry. I'm not fussy about what oil I use, any clean oil seems to work just fine..  my cary sharp system consists of several differant grades of sandpaper one sheet of glass and a zip lock bag big enough to hold them all..

     MY Tormex system consists of the Tormex , Boxes to hold the various jigs, a stand to hold all of that stuff and a gallon of water.  an extension cord because I need to move the sharpening center around due to space restrictions and a two wheeler to move everything around with.   

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 30, 2006 04:33am | #19

   Hi Frenchy,

   My "scary sharp" system has to be both portable and ready to use on a moment's notice because I am constantly transporting it back and forth to school where it used in sharpening demonstrations, and to touch up my own tools. 

   My portable unit consists of a piece of glass to which wet-or-dry abrasive have been glued using 3M Super 77, sparingly applied, in an assortment of grits, on both sides; I have had no problems with lumps or bumps.

   The piece of glass slides into a plywood carrier, which makes it convenient for me to transport with little worry about breaking the glass. I sharpen dry, frequently sweeping the sandpaper clean with a stiff-bristled bench brush as I move from grit to grit.

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

   Edited 12/29/2006 8:37 pm by jazzdogg

5. 
   user-246686 | Dec 25, 2006 10:15pm | #9

   I found a way to build a Veritas type machine for very little money and with very little work. Buy a Bodine gearmotor made in USA in the last 10 years. The one I have was $45 on ebay. The well built 115 volt 2.5 amp motor has a heavy duty 5/8" shaft gearbox in 90 deg. Mount 6" 8" or 9" face plates with 5/8" bore to it. My unit looks to be built with stainless hardware in 1994. The shaft turns at 86 rpm at 54 torq lb. in., very strong. It turns a 5/8" dia. shaft with sealed ball bearings with very little noise, a very smooth running machine. The advantage over Veritas is more motor and larger areas to work with to attach paper. I use 3M to attach auto body paper. Bodine has a web sight with wireing drawings to run the motor left or right. I mounted this 20 lb. motor to a 12x18"x3/4" plywood to clamp to the bench. At 86 rpm you get good smooth control for a dry no clean up sharpening system. Good face plates are easly flattened and trued.

1. 
   ThreePuttJoe | Dec 25, 2006 11:18pm | #10

   Thanks! That sounds like something I would do. As I hem and haw about which one...maybe I'll go with neither, and buy one of the other tools that I need. What did you do for the jig to hold the blade? Or do you just free hand it?Merry Christmas!

2. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 26, 2006 08:38am | #11

   Sounds like it would be possible to wire a footswitch enabling the user to change the direction of rotation, a feature I found very useful and desirable on the LapSharp system. It was particularly easier to control chisels and plane irons by holding the tool firmly in place before starting the motor, especially when flattening backs.

   PLEASE post pictures!

    

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

6. 
   chris_stw | Dec 28, 2006 10:12am | #14

   I am almost in the same place.  I couldnt resist the special on the JET unit and bought it but I really dont like it for turning tools.  It does a nice job on edge tools but I was wondering about the hollow grind as well.  Previously I used the scary sharp method up to 2k and then norton 8k stone.  I hope more people join in as I am very interested to hear!