Replies

1. 
   derekcohen | Sep 20, 2009 07:42am | #1

   How can I sharpen these knives? I tried free hand but did not get satisfactory results. Maybe the Veritas grinder tool rest is a solution?

   Hi Enrico

   A couple of ideas ...

   Firstly, if you have a honing guide, any will do, then use that. If you have the Veritas Mk 11, you can get the skew angle jig for it. Simpler, just insert the blade bevel down into a guide, lightly tighten, hold the bevel flat on a flat surface, and jiggle the guide/blade around until you can tighten it up at the established angles.

   Secondly, hollow grind the bevel face (carefully to avoid heat building up!). This will make it very easily to freehand.

   Thirdly, freehand (which is what I do) by honing the face in one direction only. I just pull it back. This is easier along the one side of a waterstone since you can use the edge as a support for your fingers. Press the face down and pull back. Note that knives do not need to be taken up into the highest grits.

   Here is a kiridashi I handled ..

   View Image

   Regards from Perth

   Derek 

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   Edited 9/20/2009 12:43 am ET by derekcohen

   
   

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   Edited 9/20/2009 12:45 am ET by derekcohen

1. 
   esc | Sep 20, 2009 01:14pm | #3

   Thanks for helping. The knife does not fit in the Veritas mKii. Anyway, I am trying to "hone" my free hand technique. I improved a little bit. It looks like that is the way to go.

   Thank you Enrico

1. 
   derekcohen | Sep 20, 2009 04:10pm | #4

   The knife does not fit in the Veritas mKii.

   Hi Enrico

   Never say never :)

   You can make it work. It just requires jiggling around. Don't use any setting (except the Red knob). The best way to set it is to hold the beven flat to the sharpening medium and place the guide in position, then tighten it up.

   I would recommend sandpaper for this process.

   View Image

   View Image

   Just steady the lot by placing one hand on the end of the blade and the other on the guide.

   Still, when all is said and done, I would develop your freehanding skills.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   esc | Sep 20, 2009 05:22pm | #5

   Oh yeah, you are very right. It is possible to fit it on the jig. Why use only red setting? On yello should work too. It is a bit unconfortable though. But you are right, it is possible to do it.

1. 
   roc | Sep 20, 2009 11:28pm | #6

   I keep eyeing this thing. Haven't bought one. Still can't get down to a polished edge but will do the hard work for you.http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32992&cat=1,43072,43079&ap=1I like my pocket knives honed very low angle and be careful with them. I am not convinced I can get that low an angle with this jig. The low angle I use can cut through a big plastic wire tie easily. Try that with a stock from the pocket knife manufacture's secondary bevel.
   rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

2. 
   derekcohen | Sep 21, 2009 05:33am | #7

   Hi roc

   My wife has one of those for the kitchen knives. Hers uses the diamond hones and has the additional sapphire stone. This takes edges to about 1 micron - very polished and very sharp!

   Easy to use. However not the type of doodah I'd used on a kiridashi knife (which is wide enough to freehand quite easily after a little experience).

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

3. 
   roc | Sep 21, 2009 05:46am | #8

   >optional sapphire stone<You have pricked my sharpening aficionado ears.1 micron sapphire stone " I simply have to have one ".: )rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 9/20/2009 10:48 pm by roc

2. 
   roc | Sep 20, 2009 08:27am | #2

   How quickly we switch camps !

   Meaning I am a " must use a sharpening jig " type of person meself.

   HOOOOwwwweeeevvvverr . . .

   You are in luck with your knife. It seems to be a laminated knife where the one side at the edge is hard metal layered onto softer metal. If this is true as you draw the facet that you are abrading on the stone ( not the flat back ) you will feel when the softer metal is against the stone because there will be noticeably more drag. When you raise up too much and start to round over the cutting edge the drag will disappear and it will feel slick and hard. So drag the knife along being sure to keep that drag just perceptible but with the emphasis on the hard/slick edge portion of the blade.

   If this seems like it is not happening or perhaps your knife is damascus like and does not have two definite layers try this :

   Wear a magnification visor like a jeweler, hold the stone vertically, get the light on the blade edge ( edge facing up so you are looking on the edge ) so that you can see a dark line/shadow between the edge and the stone if you don't have the edge against the stone. Then draw the knife down and away from your eyes being careful to not have that gap/shadow but not to raise up the opposite part of the facet or all is lost.

   Yes this is awkward and you must get creative and or ambidextrous to do this, sort of.

   I find knives way more difficult to sharpen and still maintain the flat facet than plane blades and chisels for this reason.

   The stone must be dry or nearly dry else water or oil will fill the shadow gap and you won't be able to see properly when you have lifted the edge off the stone.

   If this sounds like nonsense give it a try. Bright light helps. Even take it outside in the full sun. I use this method to touch up drill bits on a diamond hone.

   Take 'em outside and use the jeweler's visor.

   http://www.woodartistry.com/woodworking-faqs/ShopNotesSteelBlade.html

   PS: could not find a decent pic on line but here is similar steel layering, hard and soft configuration, in a sword.

   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamahagane

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 9/20/2009 1:43 am by roc <!-- ROC2013 -->

   
   

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   Edited 9/20/2009 1:59 am by roc

3. 
   cowtown | Nov 07, 2009 06:16am | #9

   you chuck a flat piece of MDF in your lathe, or even on a drill press, charge it with polishing compound and have at it.

    

   I think Sorby sells a similar set up as "ultimate sharpening system"

   Eric