I just ran across an article in “Wood Magazine” that said sharp blades on the planer or jointer are essential for processing highly figured wood such as curly maple etc. I adhere to this practic but sometimes I still get serious tear out. 20 years ago when I was working with a professional pattern maker/furniture maker he always dulled the blades prior to running curly maple, now this was a 36 Oliver planer and a 16 ” jointer. I just can’t bring myself to dull the blades on purpose. Is there and validity to his thinking. I know from experience the planer sounded like it was hammering the wood instead of planing it but I never saw any major tear out and we built several large librarys with lots of curly and birds eye maple.
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Replies
There are a couple simple things you can try with figured species. One is to dampen the surface before planing, the other is to use blades with a more blunt angle. Larger shops often have either abrasive planers or wide belt sanders. I might try putting a blunt micro or secondary bevel on the knives but dulling wouldn't be my choice.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
A duller blade has an effectively larger cutting angle, which is what you want with tearout-prone woods. That said, you're better off with a blade that has been sharpened to a higher cutting angle.
Have a look here for a brief discussion.
-Steve
A common practice to control tear out in commercial shops, but one that isn't generally known otherwise, is to put a back bevel on a planer blade which creates more of a scraping effect on the wood. I suspect that your pattern maker friend was doing this without realizing it when he dulled the blades.
John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
I have been putting a microscopic back bevel on my portable planer blades since I got it 10 years ago. I just do when I install a new set of blades, regardless of what type of wood I'm working with. This may put a little extra stress on the machine, but the little first generation Delta keeps humming along just fine, still on the original brushes.
Like you, I couldn't purposely dull an edge. I've been working a for a few hours in a shop with a 12" Powermatic jointer, which has very dull blades, and it seems to be quite hazardous; the pounding feels like it wants to kick the piece right out of your hand. The shop leader will face joint a board on this thing with no push blocks, just his bare hands. I'm too chicken (or smart) for that. While we have not been working with figured lumber the resulting surface quality may not have tear out, it ain't pretty either.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
What do you use to back bevel a blade? diamond hone? I might try that with a seperate set of blades.
Yes, a super fine diamond hone; one of those inexpensive ones with the blue plastic handle.
Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com
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