Replies

1. 
   Stig | Aug 03, 2006 09:57am | #1

   Sorry - I forgot to post some pictures of the fence i built earlier.

   Stig.

2. 
   joinerswork | Aug 03, 2006 03:25pm | #2

   Stig,

   When I've run curved molding, I've run it (or the pattern) against a rub collar under the cutter, either a bearing on the spindle, or clamped to the tabletop.  Start the cut with the stock held firmly against a pin in the table top, and avoid taking too heavy a cut (multiple passes).  Try to run "against the grain" as little as possible, to avoid a blowup. If the stock is molded on one edge only, shape the curved edge on wider stock, then cut the curved piece to width.  The extra wood will be more stable in the cut, and less likely to shatter. Otherwise, back the narrow piece up if possible with a matching curved piece glued and screwed to the pattern board.   Keep your hands well away from the action.

   Ray Pine

1. 
   Stig | Aug 03, 2006 05:09pm | #4

   Thanks guys.

   I used the router setup on the Knapp and made some of the moldings. The problem is exactly as you said, Hammer1. I have the idea now to make up laminated stock with little or no spring back. That way I will run with the grain all the time.

   The pattern or temporary fence that You talked about Ray makes sense and it is safer. I will stay on it starting after breakfast, trying all your ideas.

   First of all I will rip long, thin strips and glue them together in the vacuum bag, in that way make enough stock for all moldings.

   Then I shall rip to proper width.

   Third, I will fasten the resulting strip to a matching holder, (a piece of plywood or?), so I have something to hold on to.

   I will clamp a fence to the table and use the shaper this time since it runs a lot smoother.

   Wish me luck

   Stig.

3. 
   hammer1 | Aug 03, 2006 03:54pm | #3

   One of the issues with doing arched work is that the grain runs in two directions. This can mean that you run the stock in a climb cut fashion on half the arch. When I can, I make the fence to fit the arch, rather than a one size fits all set up. If the piece rocks on the fence, you don't have as much control, either from a safety or quality of cut perspective. I also like a zero clearance fit for the cutter. My picture is for a router table but the same can be done with a shaper. You can also use a starting pin with a rub collar but I prefer the fence. It doesn't have to be fancy, you may be able to use the waste from your cut.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
4. 
   mudman | Aug 03, 2006 05:18pm | #5

   You have recieved good advice. I will second making a fence that matches the radius of the cut, it is a lot safer. However for edge shaping (as shown in your pics) I would use a template and bearing. Make the template big enough to mount some rudimentery handles for more control.

   Mike

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   Stig | Aug 04, 2006 07:37am | #6

   Hey Mike that is really good. You hit the nail on the head. I always seem to get into stuff that I have never done and don't know how to do. But from what You said I know that You agree with me that half of the enjoyment with this hobby, (or whatever it is), is to solve the problem that You lay awake most of the night thinking how in Sam's Hill am I going to do this. God I love it, I truly do.

   Stig.