Replies

1. FWW Editor
   mpekovich | May 24, 2006 07:29pm | #1

   You're correct on all counts. The profile requires 2 router bits and is accomplished on the router table. I start with a board about 4 inches wide, 1 inch thick, and a few inches longer than the case width or twice the case depth, whichever is greater. I rout the molding profile on each edge, clean it up with a block plane and sandpaper. I then rip the individual moldings off the board on the tablesaw. I find this much easier than trying to rout thin strips. Finally, rout the dovetail slot in the molding on the router table. By the way, I clamp featherboards in place to hold the molding down and against the fence during all routing operations. The featherboards also serve to keep my fingers away from the bit. This method should yield enough molding for the case front and sides. Use one strip for the front and the second strip for the sides. For proper grain match, keep track of the moldings as they are cut from the board. Crosscut the molding for the sides and reassemble with the front molding. Now swing out the side moldings from the center to create a U shape. This should give you a nice grain match from the front molding to the side moldings. Not as perfect as cutting all three pieces from one long piece of stock, but not bad.

   Good luck, Mike

1. 
   JoeMin | May 24, 2006 07:44pm | #2

   Mike,
   Thanks for the info, that's very helpful. I don't have 1" thick wood, so I thought I'd rout the 3/4" roundover on the edge of a board, then cut it off on the TS, then rout the 1/4. I'm going to try doing it on a long board to get good grain matching, which should only require being accurate on the miters, I think.
   Thanks for your help,
   Joe