Hello one and all, I am in a bit of a dilemma. The issue is this: I am trying to design and build two shaker style bookcases, one from cherry, the other out of maple. I have a fair amount of experience in the design and application of shaker furniture and can generally come up with an idea for what I want to build. But for some reason unbeknownst to me I am drawing a blank on how to design and build these bookcases. I could really use a hand in this, any idea is more than welcome.
For some general guidelines as to what I have in mind, these are going to be BIG, so far my collection of books has overtaken three smaller cases, and threatening the sanctity of my dresser and nightstand combined. I am thinking something over six feet in height and anywhere from two and half to three feet in width, and around a foot deep. I am only 16 and though I have a good amount of experience in this style a veteran’s advice would be very nice.
Replies
Well, I would just say that your "eye" should have been tuned by the styles you have seen in your shaker books and your design experience so come up with sizes and shelf spacing to suit your books-what is the problem? It seems to me that folk often are fearful of proceeding until they have a plan (i.e plans drawn by someone else= nothing new)-so design your own according to Shaker style, man.
However, I would add that any good bookcase will have a back (preferably ply) that is rebated into the top and sides which will give the essential rigidity, and if it is wide this back can be pinned or nailed to the shelves as well. Stopped housings will take the shelves. Forget about adjustable shelves-nobody ever adjusts them and anyway you have the books on hand to work out spacing.Screw the sides to the shelves and use a plug cutter to cover the screws.
What timber are you to use? Presumably it will need to be authentic, but generally for solid wood bookcases I think it preferable to use a light weight timber.
What are you for and we await pictures when you have finished (;).
One guideline I would offer: Don't make the bookcases too big. You will thank me when it comes time to move them, especially when you have to maneuver through doorways or up and down stairs. I would say that the maximum manageable size for a bookcase that isn't a built-in is about 6' tall by 3' wide. Any taller than that, or wider than that up to about 4' wide, you're better off making it in two sections that sit one above the other. Wider than 4', you're better off making two side-by-side cases.
-Steve
I agree with Philip and Steve. I am working on a similar project now. Typically, I use sliding dovetails for the shelves- dados tend not to be strong enough to resist the tension that books create. I would not make the shelves much longer than 30", or at most 36". To do so you would need to use 5/4 material to prevent sagging, and it looks heavy on a bookshelf. You could glue a strip along the bottom of each shelf (with a reveal). As for overall size, in addition to Steve's concern about moving a massive carcass, a six foot high bookcase tends to dominate a room, if you make it four feet high, say, you can have a picture framed above it, and it looks less out of scale. Lastly, a floor to ceiling high bookcase filled with books has a high center of gravity. If the floor underneath is not perfectly level, or if it is carpeted, your case will tend to tip unless you have it screwed into the studs, or at least shimmed to level along the bottom. Another reason to avoid the skyscraper approach. Good luck.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
How about checking out the creamery shelves in the Shaker Workshops catalog, all you would need is a back to make it strong. In fact I have given this idea some consideration myself.
Ron
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