Replies

1. 
   observer | Dec 12, 2002 09:10pm | #1

   Parrafin wax dissolved in kerosene works but needs renewing after a couple of years.

2. 
   MSDMSD | Dec 13, 2002 03:14am | #2

   Oil based paints will also work.

3. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 13, 2002 11:13pm | #3

   I used the green wood sealer from Woodcraft, $9 a quart, probably all i'll need in my lifetime. Worked well. agriffee

1. 
   johnhardy | Dec 14, 2002 12:56am | #4

   Thanks. I've ordered some and this should do it.

   John

1. 
   Splintie | Dec 14, 2002 09:06am | #5

   John,

   In my amateurish attempts with green wood, i found the best thing to do was slab it as soon as i could, trying to miss the pith core if there is one. Best results were to put the chunks in black plastic bags (you don't want to make a little greenhouse with clear ones) and let it dry slowly. I haven't had a lot of luck with end sealing; it just seems to slow down the inevitable when i've tried it with paint or wax. Not that i don't think you should do you part to keep the economy going... <G>

4. 
   crt2cu2 | Dec 15, 2002 08:14am | #6

   Johnhardy,

   I use cheap wax, melted from old candles obtained from thrift stores et al.  Melt the wax in a double boiler and paint the endgrain thickly with an old natural bristle paint brush but first make sure the pith of the log is halved.  Sticker the stock to allow for air circulation then 'forget' about it . The hardest thing for me is letting the wood air dry for the long length of time per thickness- up to 3-4 years or more for 8/4  or 16/4 stock.  After many failures, I learned to fell trees in the late fall when the sap was down and I learned to leave the bark on.  Then I had fewer disappointments with stock degrade.  I don't see the need for buying a product such as anchorseal when various other (thick coats of old oil or latex paint, wax, glue on end grain and branch protusions) and other cheaper methods work just as well.  For example, Ron Kent claims to have good success controlling drying problems in green bowl turning work with a solution of cheap dish soap and water.  I think the most important part of drying green stock is in the gradual dehumidifying process.  That means starting the process in a cold and humid space and over a long length of time moving the stock into normal room environments.  One could build a kiln or drying room of some type to hasten this situation of course.

   sawick

1. 
   rl36 | Dec 15, 2002 01:02pm | #7

   I get anchor seal from Baileys $46.00 for 5 gallons. Not a bad price. http://www.baileys-online.com  or 1 800 322 4539. good luck RL36