You don’t want the 5 minute epoxy, it gets its fast setting time by reducing some of the waterproofness. I use West System epoxy–it and similar products differ from epoxy glue in that it has a lower viscosity and therefore penetrates and doesn’t just sit on the surface. In a pinch the longer setting glue — 15 minute setting–would probably do. It is more waterproof at least even if it doesn’t penetrate quite as well.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Sealing the end grain is worthwhile for outdoor furniture, especially for the bottoms of legs that sit on the ground, but it generally isn't needed for the top and bottom edges of the typical house door because a door isn't exposed to very much water and it can dry off quickly.
Just giving the end grain on the door the same treatment as the rest of the door will be sufficient with maybe an extra coat or two on the end grain if it absorbs a lot of finish.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
Good point. It's only ground contact where it is a good idea.
Thanks for the info. I learned more than I needed but I am sure I will use it some day.
Martin
Thanks for the info. Sounds like I may have made a mistake in using the quick two part mix. I recently made a replacement table base for a friend for a glass table top that sits out on his concrete lanai/patio here in Florida and was concerned about moisture "wicking-up" where the leg sits on the concrete since he leaves the table exposed to the elements...especially during rainy season here. I used cypress also for that reason. We'll see how it holds up. Appreciate the advise.
Hi Steve,
So you say that 5-minute epoxy "gets its fast setting time by reducing some of the waterproofness."
Huh?!?
I think that what you meant to say is that it looses some of its waterproofness in the gain of being fast setting. Or something like that.
The big loss really is that it doesn't wick into the wood very well and just sort of sits on the surface. 5-minute epoxy also tends to be quite brittle.
Hal
http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com
You've gotten some advice that said that sealing the door edges would not be needed.
I respectfully disagree. All 6 sides of an exterior door need to be finished. If not, the top/bottom will absorb moisture vapor more quickly than the face. The result will be uneven expansion, which will eventually crack the finish on the face near the top and bottom. And if left entirely unchecked, the damage will include eventual rot.
But you don't need to use epoxy. Just whatever finish is being used for the other faces of the door. (A good primer if the door is painted -- poly if the door is stained and poly'd.)
Support our Troops. Bring them home. Now. And pray that at least some of the buildings in the green zone have flat roofs, with a stairway.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled