A client has asked about having screen doors added to some of their back doors. I measured the jambs today and found that in most cases, the thickest the screen door could be was 3/4″–maybe 7/8″ if I was lucky. The largest door would be 36×80; rails and stiles could be up to 4.25″ no problem (bigger on the bottom, natch).
I have a bad feeling about this–I would think such a door would be a bit on the flimsy side. Anyone out there have experience with screen doors and what makes a good one?
Replies
<<I have a bad feeling about this>>
Me too. I think 3/4" would be pushing it too far.
How about using regular 5/4 stock, and then coming up with a design so the edge of the door would match the existing casing? I am think of something like a rabbet (on the outside), but with a cove instead of a squared off corner.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I made a screen door for my house that is 7/8" thick, (36" x 80") of white oak. I used biscuits for the joints and it's been slamming for about 15 years (I think) without any problems.
I made one of 7/8" soft maple which is about 4 years old and seems fine. The rails are 8" wide,top, bottom and center, and the stiles are 3" wide.
DR
The doors would be a bit more flexible of course, but with good joinery at the corners they should still hold up well. I would use quarter sawn wood, probably tight grained spruce or pine. You could also put a glued in plywood panel in the lower section of the door which would add considerably to the doors stiffness and you would eliminate some of the labor it takes to install that section of screening.
If the stop molding for the regular door is wide, can you substitute a narrower molding to gain some depth in the jambs for the screen door?
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
NJ! Ya' have really BIG skeeters?
I have made MANY doors.. Screen's included.. I'd say it would depend on how often it is used.. If made with good joints should be OK UNLESS there are kids that slam it open and shut (gee.. a child closing it?) every 5 minutes!
Has anybody made a "combination" screen/storm door? That is, a screen door with insert windows so it could be used year-round?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I've never had a screen door that didn't have a solid (wood or glass) door backing it up. In winter I just close both doors. :)My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
nikki,
I made a couple storm doors (wood, with screen/glass inserts) about 25 yrs ago. The inserts are framed about 1 1/2 wide, mortise and tenoned together. They are rabbetted all round and mate up with rabbetted recesses in the door frames. Held in place with flat 1/4 thick turn buttons, 6 per insert. Yellow pine. They've held up well, other than needing another coat of paint. I used replacement storm door hdwe, closer and latch set.
Reagrds,
Ray Pine
With the door you made is the screen permanently attached to the door(similar to a conventional combination aluminum storm door) -- and the window is then attached when the father winer approaches?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
nikki,
I made two sets of inserts, one with screen, one glazed with plexiglas. Swap out with change of seasons. The "real" doors are circa 1850, with a pair of vertical raised panels. I made the screen/storm doors to match the panel orientation on the old doors. Father winer seldom approaches here, as I prefer bourbon to wine ;?)>
Regards,
Ray
glazed with plexiglas.. Gee...I just got some tempered glass made to order (I guess all is special made) cheeper than I could get plexiglas!
Hi Will,
I call it all plexiglas, it might have been lexan, acrylic something or other. The kids were little then, and I didn't want glass in the things. One thing I did learn; a 5' long piece of that plastic moves quite a bit from hot to cold-can't glaze it with putty!
Regards,
Ray
Wood screen doors are typically 1 1/16" - 1 1/8" thick. It may be better to replace or alter the casing than make a skinny door. I don't know if there are exterior hinges available for a lipped door.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
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