Hi all,
I’m in the market for a table saw, and am considering the SawStop Contractor’s saw. I don’t have 220 out in the garage, otherwise I’d consider the new Delta (or the larger SawStop).
I know the cabinet SawStop has been highly rated, haven’t seen any good reviews on the contractor model. Anyone picked one up yet?
Woodworking is a hobby for me, not a profession. But getting a saw that I can get the fence parallel to the blade without getting out measuring equipment first has become important for me! Keeping the dust down, as I have to share space with the car, is also key.
Thanks,
Mike.
Replies
I own one. I've only been using it for a couple months as I rebuild my shop after a move. Its been fine for rough work.
There have been a couple of issues with it. One that there is some play in the tilting mechanism that can't be adjusted out. This means that only at 90 and 45 can the arbor truly be stabilized. There is backlash between the worm and rack so there will be about 1/32" play even when the handwheel is locked. I'm guessing this can be locked at the arbor with a C-clamp if it needs to be eliminated.
Second is that I'm noticing that the parallelism to the miter slots changes depending on blade height. Hasn't been an issue with the rough work I've been doing but I want to eliminate this but I've been waiting to contact Sawstop until I'm ready to spend a day or so figuring this out.
As with a lot of contractor designs the PALS alignment widgets would be a great addition. I haven't added them yet but will or will cobble together the equivalent.
I asked their customer service for a more detailed manual than what is provided as it only gives the basic adjustments and their mechanism is quite different than the other designs on the market; no response but I haven't followed up. I assume whoever is assembling this saw overseas has some manual to get it assembled and adjusted that goes beyond their user manual which is a little light. Its a great manual in a general sense but doesn't go into issues regarding what to do if the carriage ever twists. They do have their manual on their website for download. They still use the twin torque rod design so the carriage can be twisted (possible in the event of a brake activation) so it would be nice to know how to get everything back into "tweak" if that should ever occur.
If you are not in a huge rush contact me and I'll keep you in the loop. I doubt I'll be messing with the alignment this week and possibly not until after New Years.
I should add that they are coming out with a less expensive cabinet saw (hybrid equivalent?) but don't have details. I'm sure an e-mail to them would provide price and production date.
Edited 12/10/2008 3:26 am ET by adastra001
"I'm noticing that the parallelism to the miter slots changes depending on blade height." This seems very odd to me. It's common for the alignment to change depending on the bevel, but height? What's your theory on the cause? Did you consider returning the saw?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Well, I haven't really gotten into the diagnosis of that parallelism issue yet.It is odd but the mechanism is so different that I need to really get some data before I get on the phone with them regarding how much it is kicking out of alignment as the blade raises.I was shipped one of the early models but it sat in its box for about nine months so I'm just getting familiar with it.And unfortunately I'm in a pretty remote place (Hilo, Hawaii) so getting it to a service center or returning it really isn't a very good option. I would have to put it on a barge just to get it over to Honolulu (closest location that sells Sawstop).I'll soon need it to be dialed in for actual furniture projects but its been fine for rough and cabinet grade work.
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