I’ve seen multiple variations of this topic, but none that match mine specifically, so I thought I’d post and get some opinions. I bought a used 3 HP PCS Sawstop which came with a 6L20P plug. After reading a decent amount, and thinking about it, I’d like to run the saw, and a dust collector (not yet purchased) on the same circuit. I’m thinking of a 30 amp circuit breaker on 10 gauge wire with a 6L30P plug/receptacle. Any reason not to do this? Anything else I’m missing?
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Replies
I'm running my saw by itself on a 20 amp breaker. If your DC is less than 10 it should be fine. A delayed startup for one or the other would probably be a good idea.
a rule of thumb is that you never load your circuit with no more than 80% of rated current. 10ga. wire is rated at 30amps, so your load must not exceed 24amps. the inrush of current (only for a few seconds) will be way over the running amps of your saw (and anything that is connected to it). even though it would be convienent to run both your saw and dust collection from the same circuit, you would be better off running 2 seperate circuits.
The saw will likely not draw 20 amps very often. So on a regular basis, the total will be under 80%.
If it were me, I would run the DC on a separate circuit. They have some excellent c9llectors that run on 120v. If I couldn't have a second 240v circuit, run the saw on 240,the DC on a 20a 120v. You're going to need one of those in your shop anyway.
+1 for using separate circuits and I'm running the same saw on a 30a breaker. You might be able to get away with the 2oa? Im not an electrician or engineer, but I'm pretty sure the 240/10ga will dictate a 30a breaker. Start up with the capacitor may not be an issue, but when you tax the saw under load it'll need the larger circuit -- think making 1/2" x 1/2" dados in white oak or ripping 8/4 Wenge.
From experience ripping to the full capacity of the saw; a 20 amp 220 circuit works fine. The size of the wire does not dictate the size of the breaker, but it does offer the option to go to a higher capacity.
So it sounds like I could do either at 20 amp or 30 amp. If I go 30 there's a chance I could run a DC, but more likely not. But no concerns either way. Thank you all very much for the info, I really appreciate it.
FWIIW I find that my DC draws enough to pop a 16A @240V breaker (think 32A in 120 land) occasionally. It has a secondary motor to clean the filter and you can't run that AND start the sucker together so I have to wait for the clean cycle to stop before re-starting the cyclone.
I have my (4HP) saw on a separate 20A circuit, but I would struggle to run a fan and start my cyclone on the same circuit so I'm another for recommending separates.
It's the inrush current that gets you - it won't start a fire, but flipping breakers is a pain.
I would also recommend two breakers. I have a 240 planer and a high amperage 120V Laguna DC. The thing about a saw is that occasionally you get into a heavy load -- say you're cutting 2" inch thick hard maple and run into a section that's denser. Now, if you're running two machines on the same circuit, you're fighting the saw's power consumption at exactly the same time it needs the most power. I think you compromise both safety and performance there, as the saw can act funny when the power surges back. In the long run, saving the cost of a breaker (assuming you have panel space) is just not worth the potential for spoiled wood or kickback.
One horsepower equals 745 watts, so in theory a 3HP motor draws 2235 watts which, on a 220 volt circuit, equates to 10 amps of current. For the 3 HP saw in question, SawStop specifies a draw of 13 amps to allow for start-up surge and provide a margin of safety. If you are thinking of buying a dust collector that is over 1 HP and it requires 220V, you are probably best to run two separate circuits - one for the saw and one for the DC. If so, each of them could be either 15 Amp or 20 Amp and use a wire gauge that conforms with your local electrical code. In the end, you will likely find that running two separate circuits is the most practical and cost-effective approach.
Nobody has ever regretted running an extra circuit. Sure your probably could do it but I'd use separate circuits, even if it meant upgrading a panel or adding a sub panel (I think a shop should have a separate sub panel anyway myself)
RFC- I have wired my house and 3 out-buildings, light bulbs and switches level. So, I know enough about electrical stuff to know I know nothing about heavy duty stuff. My advice is to always have a licensed electrician do it. Not worth the consequences to save a few bucks.
I still think mj has it right. You can try the low cost 30 amp solution, and do something else of that doesn't work out for you. It's easy to suggest spending a lot of money if it's not ours.