I am building cabinets for a bathroom that will have sapele face frames, and doors. The issue I have is what finish to use. I would like to leave the wood its natural color. My problem is the bathroom has a skylight, and a window which bring in a lot of sunlight. I don’t want the color to darken with age. I also need a finish resistant to moisture since it will be in the bathroom. Does anyone have any experience with this situation?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
In my limited experience with sapele, it seems that with a polyurethane clear finish it tends to lighten somewhat with exposure to sunlight.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
I agree with David. In my experience sapele will probably not darken with either poly or pre-cat lacquer. My preference is to use poly in a bathroom, but there are many other finishing choices out there.
Don
Thanks for sharing your experiences. Its looks like I may use tung oil with some Minwax wipe on poly. How does that sound to you?
Tung oil is very slow drying. You would want to give it as much as a couple of weeks before applying a topcoat, such as a polyurethane varnish, that isn't tenacious in its adhesion. The difference in appearance will be nearly nil since you would be using an oil based varnish.
I assume you meant 100% or pure tung oil, not one of the many tung oil "finish" products that are not tung oil but are varnishes (Formby's) or oil varnish mixes (Minwax). The "finish" would dry more quickly but reduce even more the potential effect on appearance if you leave them out.
Sorry for not being more specific. I don't think I will ever use pure tung oil again. It will definitely be Formby's. I have used Formby's and the wipe on poly together before and liked the results. I will however be doing some test boards and trying some different things. Thank you for all of your help.
P.S. Do you have any experience with polys' that have UV protectors?
In that case, you might as well just continue with the Formby's, which is a fairly decent wiping varnish, rather than shifting to a different wiping varnish. Unless there is a specific need, you are almost always better using just one material rather than creating multiple layer of different materials.
UV protection for single part polyurethane varnishes is just offsetting a tendency for that resin mix to be relatively more UV sensitive. The cheap "spar polys" such as Minwax Helmsman don't really hold a candle to the real marine spar varnishes such as Epifanes, or Interlux Schooner, or Pettit Captain's.
I may try a spar varnish. I have never tried using it before. I am curious if it will really bring out the grain and set off those ribbon stripes. I am afraid it will give me a really bright gloss, which is not quite the look I was going for.
Spar varnish isn't a good choice for interior cabinets. Contrary to popular opinion it is not meaningfully more water resistant than other varnishes. It is used in marine applications for it's flexibility in an evironment where everything bends and where there are extremes in humidity. But to be that flexible means that it is relatively soft. The softness is one reason why boaters get crazy about wanting people to use rubber soled boat shoes. It's only partially that they what their visitors to have good traction so they don't go overboard.
As far as appearance, spar is only available in a high gloss sheen that is relatvely difficult to rub out to an even sheen. It won't set off the ribbon any better than any other darker colored varnish, or using one coat of BLO under other varnishes will do.
My experience with polyurethane in sunny environments has not been good. Most of it doesn't have any UV inhibitors. Waterlox marine varnish is made with tung oil and will help "pop" the grain like tung oil does. The brands Steve mentions would be equal to the task as well. Epifanes seems to top the choices when I read the reviews in my boat mags.
I refinished my doors many years ago with Laquer and built a cabinet for the washstand, also laquer. don't ask what brand but it has held up well. Only have one window and that may make a difference.The laquer was sprayed.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled