I’m in the process of testing different stains, both gel and oil, on some quarter inch plain sliced white oak veneer plywood for a wainscot project I’ve undertaken on my house. I hand sanded the test piece with 150 then 180 grit sand paper in the direction of the grain only. After applying a couple different bartley gel stains and olympic oil stain (on different test sections) I noticed some blotching of the piece on all the sections. It isn’t a lot but is consistent on all the test patches. It appears in small bands running perpendicular to the grain of the wood. I quess my question is is there anything i can do to eliminate this problem… through a different sanding schedule maybe. One option I don’t have at this point is to change my choice of plywood (bettergrade/thicker)…it is already on the wall! Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
Dan
Replies
It sounds like a defect in the veneer,perhaps from the milling process. Sliced oak has never resulted in blotchiness for me.
I'm not sure why you're testing different stains at this point with the ply on the wall. My recommendation is, if possible, flip it over and use the reverse if it's good sliced oak veneer.
Jackplane,
The piece I'm testing is an extra and is not on the wall. However the rest of my wainscotting is installed and just needs a final sanding and finish. The 1/4 inch plywood panels I used were A-4 (that is all the plywood supplier had in that thickness). I have around 300 sf of wainscotting so changing the plywood is not an option at this point. I guess my question then is can I do anything to lessen the "striping" at this point. It isn't terrible but thought there might be something I could try either through sanding or finishing technique (no spray equipment). Thanks again.
Again, I don't think sanding will remove the defect. Doing so may result in burning through the veneer. Also, sheet goods(plywood) are already pre-sanded to 220g, so sanding at 150 then 180 is only making it worse.
If you cannot apply new panels overtop, then perhaps you could apply a glazing compound and faux finish to look like the intended piece. FWW had an article on glazing techniques a few years ago, but if this is new to you, I wouldn't recommend learning on this project unless you have plenty of time.
Jackplane,
I didn't realize veneer plywood came sanded to 220. Would you recommend I final sand them with 220 instead of 150 then 180. I do think they need some sanding since they have been on the wall for a while now. (large project limited time) All of the other components of the wainscotting are solid quarter sawn white oak and have been sanded to 180. As for the "stiping, splotching,blotching" it really isn't that bad so I'll probably just live with it. Thanks for your input.
pghdan,
It's hard to say without seeing it, but is it possible that the "blotches" you're complaining about are actually the stripes in some much coveted and valued tiger-striped oak?
If you have tiger oak there are lots of woodworkers who would gladly swap some of their plain oak for your tiger oak.
Alan
Alan,
Unfortunately, I don't think so! But you did give me an idea. If someone (maybe DW) notices it I can say it is some highly sought after graining!
just happened to come across this old post. you have to be careful sanding plywood, especially 1/4" as you can sand right thru the thin veneer and what you're seeing perpendicular to the grain is the underlying layer of plywood going the other way. if you sand it at all, use an orbital sander with very fine paper (220 or higher).
Some say that this product, http://charlesneilwoodworking.3dcartstores.com/Pre-Color-Conditioner--Pre-Mixed--1-Quart--Ready-to-Use_p_47.html, works well. I have very limited experience with it. I have had some success with using a coat of danish oil, let it dry for 24 hours, and then a coat of gel stain. Also, sanding to a finer grit will sometimes limit the absorption of the stain and reduce blotch. I think the effect is rather minor but, in combination with the above, it might help.
If none of this works, you may need to seal the surface and use a toner to get the color you want. Or, depending on the color you want, you might get what you want by adding color to a shellac sealer (spray works best) and then topcoat with whatever clear finish you like.
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